I took a deep breath, burrowed into my pillow, and resolved to try again when the moment arose. But next time I'd be more cautious: no blow-drying my hair, fretting over outfits, and trying so desperately to impress. I'd just make like the cliché and “be myself ” . . . but always keep 10 percent.
18
“When a woman steals your husband, there's no better revenge than to let her keep him.”
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I
took Miles for some gelato at Sant Ambroeus after school and we walked through the October leaves down Fifth Avenue toward the park. He wanted to run around before he started his homework (yes,
homework
âin first grade), so we went into the park. I watched him climb up the Alice in Wonderland statue on Seventy-sixth Street, and as he sat in big bronze Alice's lap and waved to me, I felt such love for him that I knew I would be okay. Even if I never met the perfect guy, I was raising the perfect guy, and I loved him more than anything.
My cell phone rang, and I looked away from my precious son to fish out my phone and found Kiki on the line.
“Hey where are you guys? I just stopped by your buildingâ”
“Hi, we're in the park by Alice in Wonderland, come by!” In five minutes Kiki was there, huge sunglasses, spike heels, fur coat, and cigarette, which I made her extinguish. She was larger than life, my friend.
“So. I have another guy for youâ”
“We'll see. I'm not so sure I'm ready.”
“Fine. I have another thought, then. When Tim takes Miles to London for Columbus Day weekend, why don't you come with me to Vegas?”
“Vegas? Are you crazy? No!”
“Why? You're just gonna sit here alone and mope? I think you need to break the rut and get away. I mean
really
away.”
I noticed a gorgeous guy with a camera taking pictures of the fiery changing leaves. He then snapped the statue with Miles on it. My kid would end up in some tourist's memory book of New York.
“Isn't this statue great?” asked Kiki, flirtily, to the man, who was next to us.
“Yes, I love this,” he said in an American accent. We were both surprised, as he had an aura that was too cool to be local.
“I'm Kiki and this is my friend Holland,” she said in a Madonna-style quasi-Brit accent trying to make me sound more exotic than my low ponytail and unglam flats would project, pushing me forward. So embarrassing.
“I'm Elliot,” he replied, shaking our hands.
Suddenly his cell phone rang.
“Excuse me, I've been waiting for this callâ” He walked to a nearby bench and sat down.
“No worries,” said Kiki as he turned to take it. Then she leaned in to me. “Gorgeous, right? Go for that!”
“Please. I don't pick people up in Central Park. Least of all weird tourists.”
“Maybe he's not a tourist. He sounds normal.”
I stared at her blankly to let her know she was being insane. “Fine, okay, so, anyway, this guy I met for you,” continued Kiki. “It's a friend of a friend. Investment banker. I know, I knowâ”
“Kiki. What did I say? NO WALL STREET. No hedge funds, no brokers, no one who even glances at the
Wall Street Journal
! Got it?”
“Understood. Back to square one.”
I always hated the sound of that phrase. It was like getting that one dreaded wild card in Candyland or Chutes and Ladders and going all the way back down the path to the beginning.
Kiki took Miles's hand.
“I'll race you, Aunt Kiki!” he challenged.
“I'll beat you in my high heels, you little critter!” she taunted.
“On your mark. Get set. GO!” The two sprinted up the hill that led to the Fifth Avenue exit as I slowly meandered up. As I rounded the bend in the park path, I saw Elliot, still on the bench on the phone, looking up at me. He waved good-bye, as did I.
That night Miles and I made dinner in the kitchen, chopping veggies for a frittata. I remembered once seeing a T-shirt that read “Real Men Don't Eat Quiche,” but I knew my son was more of a man with his big heart and unedited love than most schmucks out there. As we ate our concoction he started telling me about his studies in school. They were doing geography continent by continent and now they were on Africa.
“Mommy, did you know that in some cultures you get married and you don't even know the person? You marry a stranger!”
“Yes, I did know that. Crazy, huh.” Little did he know it was the same thing here in the free world. Tim had turned out to be stranger. But he had given me my kid. And I couldn't dream of any child more delicious.
I read him some stories and tucked him into bed, wiping the matted hair from his face after he fell asleep. The thought of him on a plane without me always gave me a coronary, but I'd have to get used to it. As I walked into my bedroom, I started thinking about what Kiki said: getting away. At home I'd probably just worry about Miles incessantly and brew and stew about Tim and whom they were with. Maybe a trip would be nice. But Vegas? No. I didn't want the pressure to party and have a good time. I wasn't in a festive mood. But the idea of travel had piqued my interest; it was a weird time of year, so maybe I could get a bargain. Because I wanted the apartment over any cash settlement, and I had no new income, I couldn't exactly jet off to some ritzy destination the way we used to. But maybe a trip would be just the psychological break I needed. Maybe . . . I could get gelato from the source. Within minutes I was clicking away online, and within an hour I was the proud owner of a cheap ticket on Alitalia. Two nights in Florence, two nights in Venice. I had gone with Tim during our first year of marriage, and this would be a way of starting over: repaving those storied streets with new memories. That would be more strengthening than partying loneliness away in Vegas. I would embrace the loneliness instead. It would be a quick trip, but one that was right for meâinstead of casino lights there would be lanterns; instead of desert, water. And instead of throngs of slot-pulling, sweat-suited loafers walking on loud carpets, there would be the quiet pitter-patter of my feet in quiet, twisting, cobblestoned alleys.
19
“The first decade of marriage, you watch TV after sex. The second decade, you watch TV during, and the third decade, you watch TV instead.”
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A
s the plane started to descend on the Old World, I was glued to the window, drinking in the different topography and totally new visual flavor. Sometimes, to get out of a rut, you have to fly out, via 777. It was like my passport stamp was a defibrillator jolting me awake after a haze of zombie-like existence as opposed to living. The little rooftops were centuries older than anything at home, and suddenly the U.S. felt like strip mall central next to the rustic charms of Italy. You could highlight and drag one seminice building from Europe and paste it into New York and it would be an insta-landmark. But we had our own brand of magic buildings at home, and while I was thrilled to be abroad, part of me missed the glimmering Gotham skyline already.
I got from the airport to my little hotel, which used to be one family's mansion and was pretty gorgeous considering it cost only a hundred and fifty euros. In the U.S. you couldn't get a twin bed in a crack flophouse for that! Then I saw my room.
To say that it made a monk's quarters look like a baronial spread would not be an exaggeration. So much for the appealing virtual tour online. The room must've been like eight by nine feet, with a tiny doll's bed in the corner, a small drawer set, and a bathroom where the showerhead is above the toilet so you can pee and condition your hair at the same time. There was a tiny
Shawshank Redemption
-style window about the size of a Scrabble board and a framed map of the
cittÃ
. Okay, I thought, the plan is not to spend much time in the hotel, anyway.
So I meandered out to achieve my first order of business: gelato. I glanced in the glass-covered bins of two places before I knew I'd struck gold; the coffee gelato in the third joint was so dark, it looked like espresso. Never had I tasted anything so orgasmic. The flavor on my dime-sized spoon could kick the ass of a pint of any coffee in the States. Bliss.
With my dish in hand and bag slung over my back, I trolled the little winding streets, marveled at every church I stepped into, and crossed the Ponte Vecchio to scope out the view of the river. The freezing wind was blowing through my hair and I leaned over the wall to look at the other side of the city and felt so proud of myself that I had come here alone. After years of Black Falcon Club trips with Tim, this felt way more adventurous. I had a small fear that I could be abducted and no one would ever know or remember seeing me, but for some reason I felt braver than I did at home, and my ignorance of bad neighborhoods in Florence sent me exploring for hours in every dark corner. I'd never dawdle aimlessly in twisting gray streets at home, but I was so curious about the random fountain at the end of a stone path, or the hidden palatial town house or a tucked-away mosaic. The sky fell to electric blue, then darker purple, and the stones beneath my feet looked almost shellacked black, like perfect skipping stones but big. An old woman out of central casting was attending to her window box and I decided to walk back through the dim-lit streets, and change before taking myself out to dinner.
I was lured off the non-tourist-trodden path toward a small cove aglow with the orangey flicker of a fun little hole-in-the-wall café. The place must have had a total of thirteen tables, and there was loud music, big plates of food, and happy,
dolce far niente
, life-loving eaters. The one drawback was the gust of smoke, but hey, I was in Italia, so I smiled at the guy who seemed to be in charge. He came over and I did the universal sign for
I am a loser and need a table just for me 'cause I am totally alone in the world
(the index finger up as if to say
one, please
). I got a look of pity and even saw him exchange glances with one of his
amici
, but he sat me in a very cute minitable in the corner.
Two hours later, there were seven people smashed around me. It began ten minutes after I sat down, with two
uomini
nearby who started speaking to me in broken English.
“Why you are alone, signorina?” When I replied in broken Italian, they were very impressed. How did this lonely American
ragazza
know Italiano?
“Studiava all'università .”
First they angled their chairs toward me, then a cute couple walked in and knew them, so they introduced us. The woman had vibrant blue eyes and jet-black hair and the kind of weathered gorgeosity and extreme facial architecture that women find beautiful; guys don't always agree. We all hung out and they told me places to go, and even gave me their mobile phone numbers. I loved disposable friends. They were like my new best buds, kissing me good night and offering rooms in their homes, and I could be an effing serial killer. Fascinating. In New York, people would probably just whisper and feel sorry for me, and in Italy, they pull up chairs.
The next day I wandered to the Uffizi and waited in an endless line to get to Botticelli's
Primavera
, which was sadly behind some bulletproof glass, which I found odd-slash-annoying. Some maniac had attempted to slash it. Who are these people? I camped in front and just zoned out staring at the fabrics of the maidens' dancing gowns, hypnotized by the ethereal gauzy haze. The women looked so serene, lost in a milky swell of lightness. And soon I felt as light as spring as well, renewed and fresh.
Seeing the painting, more because it was famous and reproduced everywhere than because I loved it, was like seeing an old friend. Way beyond a familiar face, the works in the galleries were like lost close childhood pals rediscovered on foreign soil. And because I was a lone American woman, these were connections not only to home but also to my past.
I passed an Assumption into Heaven, in which a weightless Christ with luminous skin was making his way to the sky. I saw Titians with blue so saturated and choked with color that it was as if the artist had ground up stones and spread liquid lapis on the panel. Staring at these masterpieces, in
delizioso
Italia, I felt poetic, romantic, with the excited chills that I normally reserved for a movie's final sunset-dappled kiss.
The next day I went to see the giant statue of David, and in the massive hall, there were a hundred
studenti
hanging out. It was funny to see a European cultural icon being treated as some ho-hum regular backdrop, but Miles and his friends often played in the Temple of Dendur at the Met in the winter, throwing pennies, laughing as if they were on a jungle gym, oblivious to the treasures perched among their sneakered feet. If you live with it every day, it may lose its luster. Still, I always loved walking in that looming glass room whose stark interior bled into Central Park's resplendent trees, and I never took it for granted.
I sat on the floor like some of the other visitors, and a guy next to me with a giant sketch pad was drawing a perfect rendition of the statue from our profile angle. It was quite impressive.
“Molto buono,”
I offered, in pathetic Italian.
“Thanks,” he said, smiling. He knew I was hopeless and spared me the humiliation of fumbling.
His name was Marcello and he was a former art student, now a lawyer, who had grown up in Bologna and moved to Florence a few years before with his firm. I marveled at the other great drawings on the layered pages of his pad, and he asked if I wanted to have lunch. He was handsome in a really foreign, dark way, and we talked about America and art and my trip and ultimately, why I was taking it.