The Girl with the Red Ribbon (29 page)

‘What was the matter, then?' Rowan asked.

‘First of all she queried that it would go with the dress she proposes wearing for her soirée. She then summoned her maid to lay out her full ensemble. She changed into it, wondered if it was grand enough for the occasion, then changed into another. By the time she'd tried on another half-dozen, she decided her original choice was actually the best. Her poor maid was going frantic tidying everything away. Then her ladyship began fussing about which was the best way to wear the bonnet.'

‘But surely there is only one way,' Rowan asked.

‘Of course there is, but the client is always right, so another half-hour was spent assuring her she looked regal enough to host her party, and would surely be the belle of the ball. In the end, she conceded the bonnet was the
crème de la crème
and I was dismissed. Now let's take a look at
your handiwork,' she said, lighting the candles and then picking up the mantuas. Rowan held her breath. She'd taken great care with her stitching for she did so want to do something right for her employer.

‘Well done, Miss Rowena,' Louisa pronounced with a smile. ‘When I left Arlingham Hall, I took a stroll in the fresh air to clear my head and as I was passing Curzon Crescent, Esther Elliot beckoned to me.' Curzon Crescent? Hadn't Maria said the May Fair would be held in the field by there? Rowan was just about to ask Louisa about her half-day, when she realized her employer was still speaking. ‘Anyway, it will be a rush to get it done in time, but she is a valued client and I can't let her down. It will be quiet on Monday with everyone celebrating May Day so I've decided to shut the shop at noon and you can help me make it,' Louisa said, looking at her expectantly. ‘You have no objection to your first real instruction on bonnet making being then, have you, Miss Rowena?' she asked, frowning.

‘No, of course not,' Rowan said, her heart sinking. She'd have to ask about her half-day another time. After the mistake she'd made putting the bonnet back in the window yesterday and then cutting into the mantua today, she really didn't have any choice in the matter, did she?

On Monday afternoon, Rowan hurried back to the workroom ready for her first bonnet making instruction. Maria had left for the May Fair in a flurry of excitement at the prospect of spending the rest of the day with her follower. When Rowan had seen the maid dressed in her finery, eyes bright with excitement, she'd experienced a fleeting stab of envy.

Telling herself it was more important to make the most of the opportunity she'd been given, and that she'd have plenty of time to socialize once she'd learned her trade, she began setting out the ostrich feathers she'd spent the morning cleaning. The powder mixture in the bag she'd had to shake them in had smelled so noxious it had got right up her nose, making her eyes water. As soon as she had completed her task, she'd hurried out to the yard to get some fresh air. Still, the feathers were in pristine condition now, she thought, setting the tray to one side.

‘Right then,' Louisa said, coming into the workroom and interrupting her musing. ‘Are you ready for your initiation into the world of bonnet making?' Rowan nodded enthusiastically but her employer was frowning down at the ostrich feathers.

‘Have I done something wrong?' Rowan asked.

‘They look clean enough, but are you sure you took them all out of the bag?'

‘Yes,
I checked before I went outside to clear my lungs,' Rowan said. ‘Why?'

‘Well, I could have sworn I unpacked eight this morning but there are only seven here now,' Louisa said, shaking her head. ‘Oh, well, not to worry, we'll sort it out later. Now, let's make a start.' She laid out various pattern pieces on the work table. ‘I have already measured Esther for her bonnet. So first of all we will trace out the main shape and crown panel, which is the round piece for the back,' she added, seeing Rowan's puzzled look. ‘Now we carefully cut out this buckram exactly to the line traced. Sometimes we use a double layer of fabric called willow, a type of grass, but this is so much more convenient.'

Rowan watched her employer's deft movements closely, determined to commit them to memory.

‘Pass me some of those pins, please,' Louisa asked, pointing to the little jar, but in her haste to appear willing, Rowan sent it spinning and watched in dismay as pins scattered all over the work table. Louisa clicked her tongue impatiently.

‘Sorry,' Rowan gabbled, hurriedly collecting them up, and passing the jar to her employer.

‘Right, now we pin the two ends of the main bonnet together. Got that?' she asked, after a few moments. Rowan nodded vigorously. ‘Now you sew where you have pinned, using strong thread. I find blanket stitch works best. This is reinforced by the ends overlapping, so there are three rows of stitches. It's really quite straightforward.'

Is it? Rowan thought. She swallowed nervously, feeling hopelessly out of her depth.

Louisa
cut a length of wire. ‘Right, now bend this gently around the wooden block to form a circle for the crown panel,' she said, handing the wire to Rowan.

‘Me?' she squeaked.

‘Yes, you, Miss Rowena. How else are you going to learn?' Tentatively, Rowan started to bend the wire. ‘I said gently. We don't want any kinks, or the shape will be ruined.'

Rowan tried but it was no good, her hands were shaking so much she couldn't make the wire form into a circle. Silently, Louisa took it from her and moments later the job was done. ‘Now we overlap the ends of the wire here and bind them together to the exact size inside the crown.' Although Louisa said ‘we', Rowan was relieved her employer did it herself. ‘Have you any questions?' Louisa asked, staring at Rowan.

Yes, please can I go home? she pleaded silently and then remembered, this was her home as well as the place she worked in. Wordlessly, she looked at her employer and shook her head.

‘It's important to say if there's anything you don't understand,' Louisa said, cutting another length of wire. ‘This is for the peak and body of the bonnet. You form the shape around the wooden mould and finish it off by bending gently, using both thumbs, to frame the peak just so. Now join both ends together so that it will be hidden at the back. It all makes complete sense, doesn't it?' Louisa gave Rowan a smile.

No, it does not, the young apprentice wanted to scream.

Completely absorbed in her task and oblivious to Rowan's discomfort, Louisa proceeded to sew the wire into the crown. ‘Always make sure the join is at the bottom,'
she instructed. ‘Nearly there now …' She finished sewing the wire into the main part of the bonnet and peak. ‘Again, make sure the join is at the bottom. Sew the round piece of buckram to the crown over the back of the bonnet here and
voilà
, we have the finished shape.' She threw her hands in the air in a gesture of artistic triumph.

‘I'm not sure I'll ever remember all that,' Rowan said, shaking her head and collapsing onto the stool.

‘Of course you will. With the basic frame formed, all we have to do now is select the materials for the covering, lining and trimmings. That is the fun bit, and as you will find, it is all about balance and flow.' The only thing that was flowing was her attention, Rowan thought, but her employer was off again, and making a supreme effort, she turned and faced her, with what she hoped was some semblance of intelligence.

‘Before we can go any further, I need to consult with Esther,' Louisa said. ‘So I'm afraid that is the end of your lesson today, Miss Rowena.' Thank heavens, Rowan thought. ‘I shall pay her a visit later and take some samples for her to choose from. She isn't able to walk very far these days, so I like to make it as easy as I can for her,' Louisa got to her feet. ‘I hope you aren't too disappointed,' she added, mistaking Rowan's silence.

‘No, of course not,' Rowan said as her employer slipped through the dividing curtain and into the shop. Her head was spinning. Whoever would have thought so much went into the making of a bonnet? Louisa had also said the shape was evolving with new hats already coming into mode in Milan. All she could think was it was a good thing the shop had been closed so they'd had no interruptions.

‘Miss
Rowena?' Louisa said, coming back into the workroom. ‘We haven't had any clients today, have we?'

‘No, Madame Louisa,' she replied.

‘I thought not. And as such you have had no reason to freshen the fitting room?'

Rowan shook her head. Either her employer was becoming forgetful or obsessed with the freshening process. That was the second time she'd asked, and the shop had been closed since noon.

‘Is there a problem?'

Louisa thought for a moment, as if she were weighing up her words. ‘I have noticed that the level of scent in the bottle seems to be going down at an alarming rate recently and I wondered …' Her voice trailed off as she looked at Rowan speculatively.

‘You mean you think I've been stealing it?' she asked, her eyes widening in dismay.

‘No, of course not,' her employer said quickly. ‘It occurred to me that perhaps you were being a little overzealous in your duties.'

‘I am most careful, Madame Louisa,' Rowan assured her.

‘Yes, of course. It's just that my signature fragrance doesn't come cheap. Look, let's forget it. Why don't you see what Maria has left you for supper?' she said, smiling apologetically.

Rowan couldn't forget it, though. Surely Louisa didn't think she was helping herself to things that weren't hers? That thought preyed on her mind all evening, so that she couldn't relax. Deciding she needed some fresh air, she took herself out to the yard. It was still warm, with the scent of lavender and myrtle wafting on the night air. Spirits lifting,
she wandered over to the small area of lawn beyond the privy where the wild flowers grew, and threw herself down onto the cool grass. Seeing the daisies, their petals tightly closed for the night, reminded her of Mrs Acland's little maid. As she wondered if Daisy still wore the chain of flowers, her hand went to the ribbon on her wrist.

Staring up at the silvery moon, she shivered. Her future seemed uncertain and she wished her mother was here to advise her. ‘So much has changed in the years since you've been gone, Mother, but I do remember what you taught me. Please show me how to prove to Louisa I'm not a thief,' she whispered to the darkening sky. She felt a gentle tug on her ribbon and warmth flooded through her. Mother had heard, and Rowan knew without a shadow of doubt that all would be well.

Reassured, she jumped to her feet. What a numpkin she'd been. Of course, she had a lot to learn about her new trade. Things that mattered never came easily, and tomorrow was another day. She would pay close attention on her next instruction and then persevere until she had mastered the art of bonnet making. And hers wouldn't be just ordinary bonnets. They would be the finest bonnets in the town of Saltmouth, or even the whole county of Devonshire. Giggling at the thought, she let herself in through the entry and was about to return to her room, when she heard a movement in the workroom. Heart thumping louder than the clappers on the church bells, she gingerly pushed open the door.

‘Who's there?' she asked, trying to keep her voice steady.

‘Golly, girl, you made me jump like a frog,' Maria exclaimed.
‘I've just been doing a spot of tidying up. Oh, I've had such a lovely time, Rowan,' she rushed on. ‘I'll tell you all about it tomorrow, but now I'm away to my bed to dream.'

Watching as the maid skipped down the corridor, Rowan caught a whiff of floral perfume. Madame Louisa's signature fragrance! Surely the maid hadn't refreshed the fitting room at this time of the night?

‘Maria,' she called, but the maid had already disappeared. She'd speak to her in the morning she resolved.

When Rowan woke, she felt rested and eager to get on with the day. The best thing she could do was forget everything else. She couldn't have Louisa thinking she was a thief, but on the other hand, it wasn't in her nature to tell tales. Remembering how kind the maid had been to her after Mr Acland's visit, she sighed. She was still undecided as to what to do, as she turned the little sign on the shop to ‘open' the next morning. The one thing she was sure about was that she would master the art of making a bonnet.

‘Good morning, Miss Rowena,' Louisa said, appearing through the curtain. ‘I trust you slept well?'

‘Yes, thank you, Madame Louisa, and I am ready for more instruction,' she answered cheerily.

‘Well, I'm glad someone is bright and breezy this morning for I fear I am going quite mad.' Rowan stared at her employer in surprise. ‘It was those ostrich feathers. They were expensive and the loss of one preyed on my mind all night, so first thing this morning I went into the workroom and what did I find? Only that they were all there!' Louisa exclaimed. ‘It is most unlike me to make a mistake, but then I was eager to begin your instruction. Let that be a lesson to you, Miss Rowena: concentrate on only one
thing at a time.' She paused and looked at Rowan speculatively. ‘Unless by chance you borrowed one?' she asked. As Rowan opened her mouth to protest, the little bell gave its tinkle and they looked up to see Mrs Parker bustling into the shop.

‘Good morning, Mrs Parker. Don't tell me. It is a blue moon occasion and you are in need of a new bonnet,' Louisa quipped.

The woman stared at her in surprise. ‘A blue moon occasion?' she asked. ‘Is someone having a celebration I haven't heard about?' As the woman stood there looking indignant, Rowan had to turn away to stifle a giggle.

‘Just my little jest, Mrs Parker. Now, how may I help you this morning?' Louisa asked, assuming her normal professional manner.

‘Well, it wouldn't surprise me if that snooty lot around here were planning something without telling me. The way they treat me, you'd think I couldn't keep a secret,' she said with a sniff.

‘Oh, surely not,' Louisa said soothingly. ‘Now, do tell me what brings you into my humble establishment this morning.'

‘It's like this,' Mrs Parker said, brightening. ‘Now you mustn't let on I've spoken to you, but Mrs Elliot is going to ask you to make her a new bonnet,' she gushed.

‘Is she now?' Louisa asked, keeping her face deadpan. ‘And would it be for some special occasion?'

‘That's just it. She wouldn't say. Anyway, I thought if I gave you prior notice, tipped you the wink, so to speak, you could find out and tell me. One favour for another, so to speak,' she said, giving Louisa a wink.

‘I see.
Well, that is most thoughtful of you, Mrs Parker. Thank you so much,' Louisa said, opening the door for her.

‘My pleasure, Madame Louisa,' she said, beaming as she scuttled away.

As her employer shut the door with a sigh of relief, Rowan burst out laughing. ‘I don't know how you do it. You never tell her anything and yet she leaves here thinking you're party to her playful games.'