Read The Great American Slow Cooker Book Online
Authors: Bruce Weinstein
1
Mix the mushrooms, tomatoes, tomato paste, onion, bell pepper, wine, basil, oregano, rosemary, thyme, salt, pepper, and nutmeg in the slow cooker until the tomato paste dissolves in the mix.
2
Mix the ground pork, sausage meat, pine nuts, and breadcrumbs in a large bowl. Use your clean dry hands to form this mixture into meatballs, each with a scant ¼ cup. Put the meatballs into the sauce in the cooker.
3
Cover and cook on low for 10 hours, or until the sauce has thickened a bit and the meatballs are cooked through.
TESTERS’ NOTES
•
This is a complex dish, packed with herbs and spices. Classic comfort food, sophisticated flavors, and a fairly easy technique—what could be better?
•
We’ve used two kinds of pork here: the standard ground pork for its luxurious sweetness and Italian-style pork sausage for its flavorings and somewhat coarser texture.
•
For even more flavor, toast the pine nuts in a dry skillet over medium-low heat until lightly browned, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Cool for 30 minutes before using them.
SHORTCUTS
Use frozen chopped onion and bell pepper. Make sure the vegetables are thoroughly thawed—if not even at room temperature—before adding them.
Serve It Up!
Have some cooked pasta already in the bowls when the meal is ready. For more flavor, first toss the hot, drained pasta with a little crumbled goat cheese.
2- TO 3½-QUART
½ pound packaged sauerkraut
¾ cup dry white wine or dry vermouth
¾ cup shredded cored apple
¾ cup peeled and shredded russet potatoes
¼ tsp caraway seeds
¼ tsp ground black pepper
¾ pound smoked kielbasa, cut into 6-inch lengths
4- TO 5½-QUART
1 pound packaged sauerkraut
1½ cups dry white wine or dry vermouth
1½ cups shredded cored apple
1½ cups peeled and shredded russet potatoes
½ tsp caraway seeds
½ tsp ground black pepper
1½ pounds smoked kielbasa, cut into 6-inch lengths
6- TO 8-QUART
2½ pounds packaged sauerkraut
3½ cups dry white wine or dry vermouth
3½ cups shredded cored apple
3½ cups peeled and shredded russet potatoes
1¼ tsp caraway seeds
1¼ tsp ground black pepper
4 pounds smoked kielbasa, cut into 6-inch lengths
1
Drain the sauerkraut in a colander set in the sink; squeeze it by handfuls over the sink before dropping it into the slow cooker. Stir in the wine, apple, potatoes, caraway seeds, and pepper. Press the sausage into the mixture.
2
Cover and cook on low for 6 hours, or until the kielbasa is hot and the potatoes in the mix are quite tender.
TESTERS’ NOTES
•
For the best taste, use the packaged sauerkraut in plastic bags at the deli counter, the kind that must be refrigerated in a dated package. Avoid the canned stuff.
•
There’s no need to peel the apples. Shred them through the large holes of a box grater, stopping when you get down to the tough core.
•
Use only russet potatoes. They have the right balance of starch and moisture to thicken the sauce without leaving it too wet or too dry. Shred them through the large holes of a box grater.
Lamb was once a no-no on the American dinner table. Still is, for many of us. Frankly, the meat has suffered from taste and texture problems. It even has had seasonal issues. Like turkey, it was a holiday dish, best served, not in the fall, but the spring. Who makes lamb in June?
We do. Everyone should. True, lamb is a bigger taste than beef or pork, but that’s to our advantage. We can ramp up the garlic and still not overshadow the meat.
That said, lamb shouldn’t have to be off-putting. A dank funkiness is a sign that the lamb was older than nine months—almost mutton—or that the meat hasn’t been sold quickly enough from the supermarket. Good-quality, young lamb should be aromatic, even sweet, with only a bit of earthy complexity. If you’re ever in doubt, ask to smell the raw lamb at the supermarket. You’ll be able to tell if the lamb is sweet the moment the butcher opens the package for you. Look for a clean, fresh, light aroma with the barest hint of minerality.
Of any meat, lamb affords the most leeway in its cooking time. And this, even more than its taste, may be the reason it’s often considered right for a holiday dish, or for a day when you’re not tied to the clock. A lamb stew may take 6 to 8 hours to finish up in the slow cooker; a leg of lamb, 7 to 10 hours to get tender. Such swings are based on many factors: how old the lamb was, what it was fed, how stressed it was in its life, and even when it was purchased. Start checking a stew an hour before it should be done; a larger cut, two hours before. And be prepared to keep cooking it until the meat is tender and juicy. You’ll know by that tried-and-true fork test: a fork should go into and
come out of
the meat without much resistance. If you’ve got to push
or
pull, you’ve got to cook it longer.
So fire up the slow cooker! It’s time this maligned meat got its due.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1½ pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- to 3-inch chunks
⅓ cup thinly sliced red onion
3 dried apricots, halved
1½ tblsp green pumpkin seeds (
pepitas
), toasted
1 tsp minced garlic
1 tblsp cider vinegar
½ tsp ground cumin
½ tsp ground coriander
½ tsp ground ginger
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp fennel seeds
⅛ tsp saffron
⅛ tsp salt
⅛ tsp ground black pepper
3 tblsp reduced-sodium chicken broth
2½ tsp no-salt-added tomato paste
1 tsp packed dark brown sugar
4- TO 5½-QUART
2½ pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- to 3-inch chunks
1 cup (about 1 small) thinly sliced red onion
8 dried apricots, halved
¼ cup green pumpkin seeds (
pepitas
), toasted
2 tsp minced garlic
3 tblsp cider vinegar
1½ tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground ginger
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp fennel seeds
¼ tsp saffron
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
½ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
2 tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
2 tsp packed dark brown sugar
6- TO 8-QUART
4½ pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- to 3-inch chunks
1¾ cups thinly sliced red onion
14 dried apricots, halved
7 tblsp green pumpkin seeds (
pepitas
), toasted
1 tblsp minced garlic
5 tblsp cider vinegar
2½ tsp ground cumin
1½ tsp ground coriander
1½ tsp ground ginger
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp fennel seeds
½ tsp saffron
½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
3½ tblsp no-salt-added tomato paste
1 tblsp packed dark brown sugar
1
Dump the cut-up chops, onion, apricots, pumpkin seeds, and garlic into the slow cooker.
2
Stir the vinegar, cumin, coriander, ginger, cinnamon, fennel seeds, saffron, salt, and pepper into a paste in a small bowl. Scrape the paste into the cooker, then use your clean, dry hands to toss everything until the meat and other ingredients are evenly coated in the paste.
3
Clean and dry your hands again. Whisk the broth, tomato paste, and brown sugar in a large bowl until the brown sugar dissolves. Pour this mixture over everything in the cooker.
4
Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the meat is quite tender, particularly at the bone.
TESTERS’ NOTES
•
An aromatic—rather than spicy—curry blend, this one complements the lamb, making a comfort-food meal quick and easy.
•
If you’re not comfortable working with your hands in step 2, use two wooden spoons, although you’ll have to use quite a bit of elbow grease to get the meat coated in the spices.
•
Lamb shoulder chops can be quite fatty, but we don’t advise trimming them because you’ll then lose the collagen and connective tissue, both of which melt into the sauce to make it richer and more satisfying.
INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED
A lamb shoulder chop is the most economical sort of lamb chop, taken from up near the front of the animal rather than off the ribs or back near the loin. There’s a complex structure of bones in the chops, so chunk them up by trying to get a bit of bone in each piece. By the way, we don’t recommend rib or loin lamb chops in the slow cooker. They’re just too expensive to braise—and terrific quick-cookers, to boot!
Serve It Up!
For a
Grilled Corn Side Salad:
Grill ears of corn and slices of red onion until lightly browned (or use a grill pan and swab the vegetables with a little olive oil). Slice the kernels off the ears; chop the onions into kernel-sized bits. Toss them both in a bowl with olive oil, lime juice, salt, and red pepper flakes.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1 cup drained and rinsed canned chickpeas
5 ounces (about ⅔ cup) fennel bulbs, trimmed and chopped
3 ounces (about ⅓ cup) leeks (white and pale green part only), halved lengthwise, washed to remove internal grit, and thinly sliced
3½ tblsp chopped sun-dried tomatoes
1 tblsp fresh orange juice
2 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp finely grated orange zest
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
2 garlic cloves, peeled and slivered
1½ pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces
4- TO 5½-QUART
1¾ cups drained and rinsed canned chickpeas
½ pound (about 1 cup) fennel bulbs, trimmed and chopped
¼ pound (about ½ cup) leeks (white and pale green part only), halved lengthwise, washed to remove internal grit, and thinly sliced
⅓ cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes
2 tblsp fresh orange juice
4 tsp Dijon mustard
½ tblsp finely grated orange zest
½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
4 garlic cloves, peeled and slivered
2½ pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces
6- TO 8-QUART
3 cups drained and rinsed canned chickpeas
1 pound (about 2 cups) fennel bulbs, trimmed and chopped
½ pound (about 1 cup) leeks (white and pale green part only), halved lengthwise, washed to remove internal grit, and thinly sliced
½ cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes
3 tblsp fresh orange juice
2 tblsp Dijon mustard
2 tsp finely grated orange zest
1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
6 garlic cloves, peeled and slivered
4½ pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces
1
Stir the chickpeas, fennel, leeks, sun-dried tomatoes, orange juice, mustard, orange zest, salt, pepper, and garlic in the slow cooker. Add the lamb chops; toss well.
2
Cover and cook on low for 8 hours, or until the meat is wonderfully tender and sweet.
TESTERS’ NOTES
•
Canned chickpeas can range in quality: inferior brands are mushy and tasteless; better-quality ones are firm with a delicate earthiness. Here, their flavors blend with the vegetables and orange juice to tip the dish toward a southern Mediterranean flavor.
•
Use dry sun-dried tomatoes, often found in the produce section, rather than those packed in oil.
•
Choose an organically grown orange, since you’ll be using the peel. As a rule, take the zest from a fruit
before
you take the juice.
ALL-AMERICAN KNOW-HOW
Fennel bulbs must be trimmed
before
they can be chopped. Take off the feathery fronds as well as the stalks that come out of the bulb. (Both can be stored in the freezer to be added to soups, stews, or stocks.) Cut off any browned or discolored areas as well as the tough, dried-out bottom of the bulb. Slice the bulb in half from the fronds to the root, then set the halves cut side down on your cutting board. Slice them into thin strips, then turn these strips sideways and slice crosswise into the segments you need.
2- TO 3½-QUART
1½ pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- or 3-inch pieces
¾ pound leeks (white and pale green part only), halved lengthwise, washed for grit, and thinly sliced
¼ cup minced whole scallions
2 tblsp soy sauce
2 tblsp dry sherry
½ tblsp
Asian chile oil
2 tsp minced peeled fresh ginger
2 tsp minced garlic
2 tsp cumin seeds
¼ tsp ground black pepper
4- TO 5½-QUART
2½ pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- or 3-inch pieces
1¼ pounds leeks (white and pale green part only), halved lengthwise, washed for grit, and thinly sliced
⅓ cup (about 1 medium) minced whole scallions
3 tblsp soy sauce
3 tblsp dry sherry
2 tblsp
Asian chile oil
1 tblsp minced peeled fresh ginger
1 tblsp minced garlic
1 tblsp cumin seeds
½ tsp ground black pepper
6- TO 8-QUART
4½ pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, cut into 2- or 3-inch pieces
2 pounds leeks (white and pale green part only), halved lengthwise, washed for grit, and thinly sliced
½ cup minced whole scallions
⅓ cup soy sauce
⅓ cup dry sherry
3 tblsp
Asian chile oil
2 tblsp minced peeled fresh ginger
2 tblsp minced garlic
2 tblsp cumin seeds
¾ tsp ground black pepper