The House by the Thames

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Authors: Gillian Tindall

BOOK: The House by the Thames
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Contents

Cover

About the Book

About the Author

Praise

List of Illustrations

Maps

Family Tree

Title Page

Epigraph

Chapter I: In which we find the House

Chapter II: London's Other Town

Chapter III: Of Winchester Geese, Bird's-eye Views and Show Business

Chapter IV: Of Water, Fire and the Great Rebuilding

Chapter V: Genteel Houses and a Glamorous Trade

Chapter VI: Of Bonds, Leases and Other Dirty Delights

Chapter VII: The World of Edward Sells II

Chapter VIII: All Modern Conveniences

Chapter IX: In which Invisibility Settles on Bankside

Chapter X: Doom. And Rebirth

Chapter XI: Bad Guys and Good Ones

Picture Section

Notes

Acknowledgements

Bibliography and Sources

Index

Copyright

About the Book

Just across the River Thames from St Paul's Cathedral stands an old and elegant house. Over the course of almost 450 years the dwelling on this site has witnessed many changes. From its windows, people have watched the ferrymen carry Londoners to and from Shakespeare's Globe; they have gazed on the Great Fire; they have seen the countrified lanes of London's marshy south bank give way to a network of wharves, workshops and tenements – and then seen these, too, become dust and empty air.

Rich with anecdote and colour, this fascinating book breathes life into the forgotten inhabitants of the house – the prosperous traders; an early film star; even some of London's numberless poor. In so doing it makes them stand for legions of others and for whole world that we have lost through hundreds of years of London's history.

About the Author

Gillian Tindall is well known for the quality of her writing and the meticulous nature of her research. She is a master of miniaturist history, making a particular person or situation stand for a much larger picture. She began her career as a prize-winning novelist and has continued to publish fiction, but she has also staked out a particular territory in idiosyncratic non-fiction that is brilliantly evocative of place. Her
The Fields Beneath: the history of one London village
, which first appeared almost thirty years ago, has rarely been out of print since; nor has
Celestine: voices from a French village
, published in the mid-1990s and translated into several languages, for which she was decorated by the French government. Her two most recent books are
The Journey of Martin Nadaud
(‘haunting and moving … impossible not to love for its humanity and integrity'
The Times
) and
The Man Who Drew London: Wenceslaus Hollar in reality and imagination
(‘a book that is both elegant and thoughtful'
Sunday Telegraph
), also published by Pimlico. Gillian Tindall lives with her husband in London, in a house that is old – though not as old as the house by the Thames that forms the centrepiece of her present book.

Praise for
The House by the Thames

‘Tindall is a painstaking scholar, but it is her empathy with ordinary lives that makes this book so remarkable.' Frances Spalding,
Sunday Times

‘This graceful discursive book restores forgotten lives, and unlocks a door to reveal London in its glorious breadth and entirety.' Christopher Fowler,
Independent on Sunday

‘This is London's history as detective story, an assemblage of minutiae, a layering of clues … from vestry minutes books to old Thames flood prevention maps – through which Tindall has dredged and sorted in order to reconstruct the fascinating and, at times, touchingly intimate history of this tiny spot. What strikes you, above and beyond the sheer volume of graft that must have gone into compiling this book and its delightful illustrations, is the generosity of its author in writing it. Central London has been dissected by someone with the patient eye, the gift for elegant renovation and the forensic skills of Gillian Tindall.' Melanie McGrath,
Evening Standard

‘The story that Gillian Tindall weaves in this book is no less fascinating for an absence of grand characters and in many ways it is the better for it.' Clive Aslet,
Spectator

‘Tindall is a microhistorian with a rare power to communicate the fruit of her diligent and meticulous research … a wonderful book.'
BBC History Magazine

List of Illustrations

Long View of London from Bankside
. Wenceslaus Hollar, etching (c.1640).

The Tudor ‘Fish House'. Engraving.

The Falcon Tavern. Engraving.

Old Houses on Bankside, Southwark. 1827
, pencil and wash by John Chessell Buckler. © Guildhall Library, Corporation of London.

The View from Bankside
, c. 1820. Oil painting attributed to Thomas Miles Richardson but, in view of the dating, possibly by his father, Thomas Miles Richardson snr. © Museum of London.

Edwards Sells's first market sale note (1755).

Thames Coal-boat. After a daguerreotype by Beard, in Mayhew's
London Labour and the London Poor
.

St Saviour's Church
. 1827, pencil and wash by John Chessell Buckler. © Guildhall Library, Corporation of London.

St Saviour's National School. Engraving. From a brochure printed for the opening of the new building in 1792.

Phoenix Gas Works, Bankside
. 1826, watercolour by Gideon Yates. © Guildhall Library, Corporation of London.

The testimonial presented to Edward Perronet Sells I in 1852. Photograph © Nick Hale, 2003. Courtesy of Andrew Sells.

Edward Perronet Sells II. Courtesy of Andrew Sells.

Edward Perronet Sells III. Courtesy of Andrew Sells.

View of Barges on the Thames
. Wash and ink by William Luker jnr. © Guildhall Library, Corporation of London. Courtesy of the Luker family.

Bankside 1927
. Etching by Grace Golden. © Museum of London. Courtesy of Colin Mabberley.

The quay in front of number 49 Bankside in 1911, with power station chimney behind. Courtesy of the London Metropolitan Archives.

The same stretch of Bankside in 2004, with rebuilt chimney (now part of the Tate Modern). Photograph © Richard Lansdown.

Anna Lee at home in number 49 (1936). Courtesy of the late Anna Lee.

Buildings looking towards Southwark Bridge
(1946). Wash and ink by Albert T. Pile. © Guildhall Library, Corporation of London. Courtesy of Cordelia Stamp.

Bankside power station, from across the river (1946). Courtesy of Southwark History Library.

Bankside 1970
. Oil painting by Trevor Chamberlain. Courtesy of Alan Runagall.

Maps by Martin Collins.

Part of the family tree of the Bankside Sells

THE HOUSE BY THE THAMES

and the people who lived there

GILLIAN TINDALL

Land is like old vellum … a document that has been written on and erased over and over again.
O. G. S. Crawford, archaeologist and aerial photographer (1886–1957)
Chapter I
I
N WHICH WE FIND THE
H
OUSE

YOU CAN REACH
the house a number of different ways. It will still be the same, an inconspicuous but remarkable survivor in a landscape where almost everything else has changed. And changed. And changed again.

You may approach it from London Bridge, as people did when it was a new house, because that was then the only route from the opposite bank of the Thames, on foot, on horseback or on wheels. There was already a bridge there under the Roman occupation, and a later one was constructed in wood on the remains of the Roman stone work. The song that is still sung in our nurseries today commemorates this wooden bridge: it was burnt down in the Danish wars about a thousand years after the Roman invasion. Subsequent bridges on the site also suffered from fire, or were broken down by gales and flood tides. ‘
Sticks and stones will wash away
…'

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