The Little Paris Kitchen (7 page)

SERVES 2 AS A MAIN COURSE OR 4 AS A STARTER

For the relish:
1 stick of rhubarb, finely diced • 1 small cucumber, finely diced • 1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice • 1 tbsp cider vinegar • a pinch of salt • 1 tsp sugar, or to taste

• 4 mackerel fillets, skinned
*
• a pinch of salt • 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling

MAKE THE RELISH:
Mix all the ingredients together. Leave to stand for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, check the fish for any bones before cutting into very small dice. Put the diced fish into a bowl, season with the salt and olive oil, and mix together. Serve immediately, with the relish and a drizzle of olive oil.

*
It's essential to use the freshest mackerel possible. I buy my mackerel whole so that I can see how fresh the fish is. Here are a few tips on how to tell whether fish is fresh:

•
bright, shiny eyes

•
glossy skin

•
it doesn't smell “fishy”

•
If you look under the gills, they should be a rich red. Faded, dull red means the fish is old
.

Preparation time: 20 minutes

There's honestly not much to making
steak tartare
. A good-quality fillet of beef, minced or chopped, with some condiments:
c'est tout!

Some bistros serve their
tartares
already seasoned and with the condiments mixed into the meat. I prefer the easier option of just serving the condiments on the side. This way, everyone can customize their
tartare
to their own taste.

SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE

• 1
⅔
lb very fresh beef fillet, minced or finely chopped by hand • 4 fresh egg yolks
*
• pepper (optional) • 4 tbsp capers, finely chopped • 2 shallots, finely chopped • 8 cornichons, finely chopped • ½ bunch of parsley, finely chopped • Dijon mustard • Tabasco • Worcestershire sauce • Crusty bread

Divide the beef between four plates, using your hands to form the meat into patties. Top each tartare with an egg yolk, and sprinkle with pepper if you like. Put the chopped condiments into little bowls, and pop the mustard, Tabasco, and Worcestershire sauce on the table for everyone to help themselves. Serve with some crusty bread.

*
This classic
steak tartare
is served with a raw egg yolk, but I prefer mine without, as I find the egg too rich with the meat
.

Try the following Japanese accompaniments instead of the classic condiments above.

• 1 tbsp sugar • 5 tbsp rice wine vinegar • 1 small cucumber, cut into very small cubes • 2 daikon (white radishes), about 8 in long, cut into very small cubes

Dissolve the sugar in the rice wine vinegar. Stir in the cucumber and radish. Leave to marinate for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Serve with some pickled Japanese ginger and a small dab of wasabi paste.

Preparation time: 10
–
15 minutes Resting time: 30 minutes (for the Japanese condiment)

Soup for your soul, or for when you're ill. My Austrian grandma used to make a chicken dumpling soup that I always crave when I'm feeling a little under the weather. Dumplings (or
quenelles
in French) are traditionally served with a heavy sauce, but I think they go just as well in this light soup.

SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE

For the
quenelles
:
7 oz raw chicken breast • 3½ oz white bread, no crusts • 6½ tbsp half-and-half • 1 egg plus 1 egg yolk • 1 tsp salt • a pinch of pepper • a pinch of nutmeg

• 6½ cups chicken stock • 2 large carrots, roughly chopped • 5 button mushrooms, thinly sliced • salt and pepper (if needed)
*
• ½ bunch of parsley, leaves roughly chopped

TO MAKE THE
QUENELLES
: Put all the ingredients into a blender and whizz until you have a smooth paste. Form the paste into 20–25
quenelle
shapes by using two tablespoons (for smaller
quenelles
, use two teaspoons).

Put the stock and carrots into a large pot. Bring the stock to a boil and boil for 10 minutes.

Drop the
quenelles
into the boiling stock and cook for 5 minutes (3 minutes for the small ones), adding the mushrooms for the last minute. When the
quenelles
are done, they will rise to the surface. Serve immediately, garnished with some roughly chopped parsley.

*
Depending on the quality of your stock, you may not need to add any salt or pepper. Taste for seasoning before serving.

Poach the
quenelles
in boiling water until they rise to the surface, then drain and put into a baking dish. Cover with grated cheese or
Sauce Béchamel
(
page 269
) and broil until the top is bubbling and golden.

Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes

For the fashion-conscious, the arrival of spring in Paris means that it's out with the winter wardrobe and in with the spring one. The same goes for stews. Forget your winter
boeuf bourguignon
; it's so last season!
Navarin printanier
, a lamb stew with fresh spring vegetables, is what should be bubbling away in your kitchen.

SERVES 4–6 AS A MAIN COURSE

• 2 lb lamb neck, cut into 6 pieces • 2 cloves of garlic, crushed to a paste • 1 onion, finely chopped • 1 tbsp olive oil • 1 bay leaf • 2 sprigs of thyme • 4 carrots, cut into chunks • ¾ cup fresh or frozen peas • 3½ oz green beans, chopped • salt and pepper

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Brown the meat, garlic, and onion with the olive oil in a large Dutch oven. Add the bay leaf, thyme, and carrots, and enough water to cover the meat by at least an inch. Bring to a simmer and remove any foam that rises to the top. Once all the foam is removed, cover the pan and transfer to the oven. Cook for 1½–2 hours or until the meat is tender.

Ten minutes before serving, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add the peas and beans. Cook for 5 minutes or until the vegetables are tender, then drain.

Take the casserole out of the oven and remove the bay leaf and sprigs of thyme. Add the peas and beans to the lamb, season with salt and pepper, and serve straightaway.

Serve the stew with some mint sauce.

Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 1
½
–
2 hours

I thought
hachis Parmentier
was a French take on English shepherd's pie until I realized it doesn't use ground meat but leftover meat from a stew or roast. Antoine-Augustin Parmentier was an eighteenth-century French pharmacist who championed the humble potato. Previously used as animal fodder, Parmentier put potatoes on the French culinary map by promoting them as a nutritious vegetable at high-society banquets and dinners.
Hachis Parmentier
with its mashed-potato topping is an homage to the man who made potatoes fashionable. This is my colorful version.

SERVES 4–6 AS A MAIN COURSE

For the topping:
1 lb squash, peeled and cut into chunks • olive oil • salt • nutmeg • 1 lb baking potatoes (such as russets or Yukon Gold) • ½ bunch of parsley • ½ cup milk • 1 tbsp butter • white pepper

• 3 shallots, thinly sliced • 2 cloves of garlic, crushed to a paste • 1 carrot, finely diced • 1 bay leaf • 1 sprig of thyme (leaves only) • 1 tbsp olive oil • 2 tbsp tomato paste • 10 oz roast or stewed meat,
*
shredded • 6½ cups vegetable stock, plus a little extra if needed • a pinch of sugar • salt and pepper