The Martha Stewart Living Cookbook (2 page)

RICE
It helps to keep a variety of rices in your pantry at all times, as they make an easy side dish and are used in many types of cooking across the world. Keep rice in its original packaging until opening, then store it in an airtight container at room temperature. Martha likes to write cooking instructions for each and affix them to the lid of the container for handy reference (for example, “combine 1 cup water, ½ cup rice, and ½ teaspoon salt; cook 25 minutes”). For best results, use within a year.

arborio rice:
When properly prepared, this short-grain Italian rice develops a creamy texture and a chewy center and has an exceptional ability to absorb flavors, making it ideal for risotto. Carnaroli is similar in starch content.

basmati rice:
With its slender long grains, basmati is prized for its delicate nutty aroma. It is an essential element of Indian cooking.

brown rice (medium-to long-grain
) is the entire grain of rice with only the inedible husk removed. The nutritious, high-fiber bran coating gives it its light tan color. When cooked, brown rice has a strong, nutty flavor and chewy texture. Medium-grain brown rice is starchier than the long-grain variety.

jasmine rice:
This long-grain rice has the aroma of basmati but the softer, starchier texture of medium-grain rice. It is ideal for serving with Thai curries.

sushi rice:
Japanese sushi rice is a short-grained, glutinous white rice that becomes moist, firm, and sticky when cooked. If you can’t find Japanese sushi rice, substitute short-grained white rice (called pearl).

white rice (medium-to long-grain),
which has been stripped of the husk and bran, has a mild flavor and firm texture, making it a versatile vehicle for carrying the flavor of other ingredients. Medium-grain is a little stickier than the long-grain variety. Converted white rice, which is made by soaking, pressure-steaming, and then drying unhulled grains, takes slightly longer to cook than unconverted white rice; it also has a pale tan color. Instant or quick white rice has been fully or partially cooked before being dehydrated and packaged; this should not be substituted in recipes.

white rice (short-grain, or pearl):
The fat, almost round grains of short-grain white rice have a higher starch content than medium-and long-grain rice. They become moist and viscous when cooked, causing the grains to stick together. Also called glutinous rice (even though it is gluten-free), this variety is most often used in Asian cooking.

wild rice
is actually the seed of a grass found in the Great Lakes region of the United States. It is harvested by hand and it has a nutty flavor and chewy texture, making it particularly good in rice salads and stuffings. Although wild rice can take up to an hour to cook, it is important to watch it carefully toward the end; overcooking produces starchy results.

SALT
The two most common types are kosher (coarse) salt and table (iodized) salt. Kosher salt is a good choice for cooking (and brining) and for use at the table. Since coarse salt does not contain any additives or iodine, it has a cleaner flavor and is not as strong or sharply acidic as table salt; it also dissolves quickly in cold water. When seasoning foods, the larger grain of coarse salt make it easier to control the amount you use (and the saltiness of the dish). In most recipes, these salts can generally be used interchangeably, without altering amounts, though you may prefer to use table salt for baking.

If you want to add a more distinctive accent to dishes, consider one of the many types of sea salts. Fleur de sel, one of the rarest and most prized of sea salts, comes from the Brittany region of France; it has a mild salty taste and is best used as a condiment, sprinkled over salads, egg dishes, fish, and other foods at the table. Gray salt also hails from Brittany, and has a stronger saltiness. Maldon, an English sea salt, consists of small white crystalline flakes that can easily be crushed with your fingers and added to dishes as they cook or once they are at the table. Sun-dried sea salts also come from Sicily and Maine; they are perfect for garnishing the rims of cocktail glasses.

SOY SAUCE
Soy sauce is traditionally made by fermenting whole boiled soybeans with wheat or barley. Varieties can range from dark to light in color and thick to thin in texture. Light soy sauce is generally saltier and thinner than dark and is used when the flavor of the sauce is desired but the color is not. Dark soy sauce is less salty and provides a richer flavor and hue to a dish, due to the addition of caramel color. Tamari, a similar sauce, is brewed from whole soybeans but contains no wheat; it has a more pronounced flavor and is often used to season long-cooking dishes such as soups and stews. Both types are very versatile and can be used in marinades and dressings and as a table condiment. Soy sauce will keep indefinitely in a cool pantry.

SUN-DRIED TOMATOES
Sun-dried tomatoes are available dry-packed or oil-packed. Dry ones need to be softened by soaking in water or another liquid before using, while oil-packed tomatoes can be used right out of the jar and often have a more consistently chewy texture (the oil can be used to flavor sauces and salad dressings). Use sun-dried tomatoes throughout the year to make sandwiches, pizza, salads, and pasta dishes. The dry-packed tomatoes will keep almost indefinitely in a well-sealed bag; oil-packed tomatoes should be refrigerated after opening and used within a month or so.

TOMATO PASTE
Tomato paste is highly concentrated and generally used as a thickener and flavor enhancer in soups, stews, and tomato-based sauces. A little paste goes a long way; many recipes often call for just one or two tablespoons. The rest should be transferred to an airtight container and can be refrigerated for several weeks. Or it can be frozen for up to six months: Drop 1 tablespoon of tomato paste into each section of an ice-cube tray and freeze until solid, then pop frozen cubes into a resealable plastic bag and return to the freezer until ready to use.

VINEGARS
Because they add brightness to everything from salad dressings to sauces, vinegars are pantry essentials. Experiment with different types; those made with wine and sherry are the most versatile. For the longest shelf life (up to a year), store bottles in a cool spot, away from direct sunlight.

balsamic vinegar
is made from the boiled-down must of white grapes. With its sweetness and intense flavor, balsamic should be used sparingly. It is delicious in vinaigrettes (often in combination with other vinegars) or drizzled over strawberries. When used in cooking, add balsamic vinegar only at the end or just before serving to retain its flavor.

cider vinegar
is derived from fermented apple cider. Mild-tasting and slightly sweet, it is what gives coleslaws and sauerkraut their familiar tang. You can also use it instead of lemon juice to enhance the flavor of apples in pies and other desserts.

red-wine and white-wine vinegars
are made from fermented wines. They are most frequently used in salad dressings and marinades and as last-minute additions to sauces and stews.

rice-wine vinegar,
made from fermented rice wine, is much milder and faintly sweeter than other wine-based vinegars. Look for unseasoned rice-wine vinegar (seasoned vinegars are clearly labeled as such).

sherry vinegar,
produced in Spain from fermented fino sherry, is prized for its concentrated, balanced flavor. It is essential in gazpacho and wonderful in vinaigrettes, but it can also be used sparingly in cooking to give dishes depth of flavor.

WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE
This dark, piquant sauce is usually made from garlic, soy sauce, tamarind, onions, molasses, anchovies, vinegar, and seasonings. It can be used at the table or to flavor meats, marinades, soups, and salad dressings. There is also a light-colored version for use with fish and poultry. It will keep almost indefinitely in a cool spot.

BAKING NEEDS

BAKING POWDER
Baking powder combines the leavening action of baking soda with a premixed acidic agent. When mixed with water or other liquid, baking powder releases carbon dioxide gas bubbles that cause a bread or cake to rise. Before buying, check the date on the bottom of the canister; it loses its potency over time, and usually needs to be replaced after one year. To test if your baking powder is still active, mix 1 teaspoon powder with
¹
/
₃
cup hot water; it should bubble instantly.

BAKING SODA
Baking soda is another type of leavener. When used with an acidic ingredient, such as buttermilk or yogurt, baking soda produces gas bubbles, causing bread or cakes to rise. It should be mixed with the other dry ingredients before a liquid is added, as baking soda reacts immediately when moistened. Keep it in a cool spot and check the expiration date on the bottom of the box. It’s also good as a household cleaner, and an open box in the refrigerator will help eliminate any odors (buy one specifically for this purpose; do not use it in recipes).

CHOCOLATE
Keeping chocolate bars and chips on hand is a must for spur-of-the-moment desserts. Semisweet is the most commonly called for, but some people prefer the taste of bittersweet. Unsweetened chocolate is used in some recipes and cannot be swapped for the others. If you prefer a richer flavor, explore the higher-quality brands such as Callebaut and Scharffen Berger. Unopened packages should be stored in a cool, dry, dark spot for up to a year; once they’ve been opened, wrap the packages in plastic or foil, or place in a resealable plastic bag. Don’t worry if a grayish-white bloom develops on the chocolate; it doesn’t affect the flavor and can be scraped off.

COCOA POWDER
Cocoa powder is unsweetened chocolate with most of the cocoa butter removed. Dutch-processed cocoa, which is treated with alkali, a mineral salt that helps to neutralize cocoa’s natural acidity, is richer, darker, and less bitter than regular unsweetened cocoa; it is also more powdery and does not dissolve readily in cold milk. Although the two types can often be used interchangeably, it’s a good idea to use what is called for in a recipe.

CORN SYRUP
Because corn syrup prevents crystallization, it’s an important ingredient in some candies, jams, jellies, frostings, and glazes. It is also used in pie fillings, including pecan. There are two types to choose from: light corn syrup, which has been stripped of all color and cloudiness and has a purer flavor, and dark corn syrup, with added caramel flavor and coloring. Store syrup at room temperature in its original container for up to a year.

CORNSTARCH
Dense, powdery cornstarch comes from the endosperm, or white heart, of the corn kernel. It is commonly used instead of flour as a thickening agent for pie fillings and custards; it is also added to gravies, soups, and savory sauces (especially in Chinese cooking). Because it tends to form lumps, cornstarch should be blended with a small amount of cold or room-temperature liquid to form a slurry, or paste, before being stirred into a hot mixture. Keep in a cool spot, tightly sealed, and use within a year.

CREAM OF TARTAR
This powder is tartaric acid derived from fermented grapes. It increases the stability and volume of whipped egg whites in meringues or angel food cake. It is also used to give some candy and frostings a creamier consistency. Cream of tartar will keep for a year or longer in a cool spot.

FLOUR
Different flours have different amounts of protein, which will affect the way each behaves in a recipe: The protein in flour forms an elastic network that helps contain the gases that make doughs and batters rise as they bake. It is only necessary to sift flour if a recipe specifically calls for it, but you may want to run a whisk through it before measuring to break up any clumps. Store in airtight containers at room temperature for up to a year; choose containers with wide mouths for easy scooping.