The Sugar Mill Caribbean Cookbook (37 page)

BOOK: The Sugar Mill Caribbean Cookbook
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Put the ribs into a pot, cover them, and add the parboiling seasonings. Bring the mixture to a boil, and reduce the heat. Simmer the ribs for 30 minutes or until they are tender. Drain them, discarding the liquid. (The parboiling can be done in advance. If you refrigerate the parboiled ribs, let them come back to room temperature before you grill them.)

Combine the jerk seasonings. Rub the parboiled ribs with oil, and then rub in some of the seasoning mix (about 1½ to 2 teaspoons per pound). Allow the ribs to marinate at room temperature for at least 1 hour.

Prepare a fire for grilling.

Grill the ribs over hot coals, turning them once, until they are brown and cooked through. Serve immediately.

 

Makes 6 servings

 

Spicing Things Up with Jerk

O
ne of our favorite dishes is Jamaican jerk, which is becoming almost as popular in the islands as rum and reggae. Created by the Arawaks and perfected by the Maroons, jerk pork is the ultimate island barbecue. Jerked food is hot, there's no denying that, but it is also complex and exciting. The flavors dance like a spicy festival in your mouth. Scallions, onions, thyme, Jamaican pimento (allspice), cinnamon, nutmeg, and fiery Scotch bonnet or bird peppers combine in a pungent medley that is rubbed on the meat before its slow smoke cooking.

These days jerk huts are clustered by the sides of the roads everywhere in Jamaica. The Pork Pit near the Montego Bay Airport and the Ocho Rios Jerk Center have introduced hundreds of visitors to the joy of jerk. In Negril, jerk pits line the two main roads leading in and out of town, and in Port Antonio jerk can be found on West Street near the market.

For our first taste of jerk, we decided to go to the pioneer establishment at Boston Bay, home of the originaljerk pits. A haze of smoke from smoldering pimento wood hung over the wooden huts. Jerk stands aren't much for decor, but the cooks were friendly and helpful when it came time to make our selection: pork, chicken, and locally made sausage. Clutching greasy bags, we sneaked through the lobby of our hotel and slunk into our room. No strangers to Caribbean seasoning, we took the precaution of calling room service to provide four cold Red Stripe beers to wash down this feast. When the waiter arrived he had on his tray not four, but six icy beers.

"
That's fine," we said, "We ordered only four, but we can put the other two in our little refrigerator.
"

The waiter smiled wisely and shook his head. "I see you come through the lobby with them bags, and when you call I say to myself, that is no four-beer jerk. That is a six-beer jerk.
"

Of course, he was right.

Pork Picadillo

This spicy hash-like mixture is one of 1 Cuba's most popular dishes. Although it is usually made with beef, we like it with pork. Traditionally, the dish is served with black beans and rice and fried plantains, with a deep-fried egg topping the picadillo. We also like picadillo as a filling for pita bread or Caribbean patties (see
[>]
), and it's great for breakfast with a poached egg on top.

 

¼
cup annatto oil (see
[>]
)
1
onion, diced
1
red or green bell pepper, minced
2
garlic cloves, minced
½
teaspoon minced Scotch bonnet (or habanero) pepper, or other minced hot pepper to taste
½
teaspoon cayenne
2
pounds minced or ground pork
3
medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
½
teaspoon ground cumin
2
tablespoons drained capers
¼
cup raisins
¼
cup minced green olives
Salt and pepper to taste

Heat the annatto oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, bell pepper, garlic, minced hot pepper, and cayenne. Sauté them until the onion is softened, about 5 minutes. I Add the pork, and cook, stirring often, about 8 to 10 minutes, until the meat is lightly browned and cooked through.

Add the remaining ingredients, and simmer 15 minutes. Season the picadillo with salt and pepper. Serve it hot.

 

Makes 6 servings

Grilled Lamb Chops with Creole Sauce

We both love lamb, and we think this brightly hued sauce with hints of Spanish-island flavors is an ideal accompaniment for baby lamb chops seared on the grill.

 

1
cup walnuts
4
garlic cloves, chopped
½
teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
½
teaspoon salt
3
tablespoons white wine vinegar
2
teaspoons sugar
1
cup tomato paste
1½
cups olive oil
12
small loin lamb chops

Toast the walnuts in an ungreased skillet over moderate heat, shaking them occasionally, until they release their aroma. Chop half the nuts coarsely, and reserve them.

Put the remaining nuts into a blender or food processor, and add the garlic, hot pepper flakes, salt, vinegar, sugar, and tomato paste. Blend well. With the machine running, add the olive oil in a thin stream, and continue blending until the mixture is thick and smooth. (This sauce can be made a day in advance; refrigerate it until you're ready to use it.)

Grill the lamb chops on one side for 5 minutes, then turn them, and spread them with the sauce. Continue grilling them until they are done.

Serve the chops sprinkled with the reserved chopped nuts.

 

Makes 6 servings

Light-up-the-grill Dinner

C
ARIBBEAN
B
LACK
B
EAN
S
OUP
[>]

***

G
REEN
S
ALAD WITH
C
REAMY
D
ILL
D
RESSING
[>]

***

G
RILLED
L
AMB
C
HOPS WITH
C
REOLE
S
AUCE
[>]

***

B
ANANA
C
HEESECAKE
[>]

Roast Lamb with Guava and Rosemary

Guavas are native to the Caribbean, where there are dozens of edible varieties. On islands with a Spanish heritage, guava paste is often eaten with cheese for dessert. We purée fresh guavas for this lamb dish when they are available, but canned nectar, available in most supermarkets, works equally well.

 

1
leg of lamb (6 to 8 pounds with bone, or 4 to 6 pounds boned)
 
Salt and pepper to taste
3
garlic cloves, slivered
2
cups guava nectar
 
Rosemary sprigs

Preheat the oven to 350°. Rub the lamb with the salt and pepper. With the point of a sharp knife, cut slits in the skin. Put a sliver of garlic and a small sprig of rosemary in each slit.

Place the roast on a rack in a roasting pan. Roast the lamb, basting occasionally with the guava nectar, until its internal temperature reaches 135° to 140° (for rare meat) to 160° (for medium-well-done). Allow about 30 minutes per pound for a boneless roast and 25 to 30 minutes per pound for a bonein roast.

Leg of Lamb with Callaloo or Spinach and Feta Cheese

Goats are more common than lambs on our island, but when we've occasionally tried a goat dish on the menu at the Sugar Mill we've found the guests to be less than enthusiastic. Although we love goat stew, which is a staple at Festival Village during Tortola's carnival, and would travel a long way for a goat roast, we decided to stick with more familiar lamb for this colorful dish.

 

2
tablespoons olive oil
2
tablespoons minced garlic
3
cups fresh callaloo or spinach leaves, stemmed
8
ounces feta cheese
2
red bell peppers, roasted, peeled, and cut into ½-inch strips
1
boned and butterflied leg of lamb
2
garlic cloves, slivered
Salt and pepper to taste
2
tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves, or 2 teaspoons dried rosemary

Preheat the oven to 425°. Heat the oil in a skillet. Add the garlic, and sauté it over medium-low heat for 1 minute. Add the callaloo or spinach, increase the heat to medium, and toss the greens until they are just wilted but still green and fresh-looking. Remove the greens and garlic to a bowl, and stir in the crumbled feta.

Spread the cut side of the lamb evenly with the callaloo or spinach mixture. Spread the pepper strips down the center lengthwise. Roll up the roast lengthwise (jelly-roll style), and tie it with kitchen string. Make small slits in the surface of the roast with the tip of a sharp knife, and insert the slivers of garlic into the slits. Sprinkle the roast with salt, pepper, and rosemary.

Place the roast in a shallow roasting pan. Roast it 12 minutes per pound for rare meat (135° to 140°) or 15 minutes per pound for medium (155°). Let the lamb rest for 15 minutes before carving it.

 

Makes 6 to 8 servings

A Sophisticated Spring Dinner

S
MOKED
S
CALLOPS WITH
S
ALSA
[>]

***

G
REEN
S
ALAD WITH
C
URRY
D
RESSING
[>]

***

L
EG OF
L
AMB
WITH
C
ALLALOO OR
S
PINACH
AND
F
ETA
C
HEESE
[>]

C
URRIED
C
ITRUS
RI
CE
[>]

***

B
ANANA
B
EIGNETS WITH
A
PRICOT
S
AUCE
[>]

Herb-Crusted Rack of Lamb

There is absolutely no geographical justification for including this recipe here. It isn't even vaguely Caribbean. But our guests love it, we love it, and we'll bet you'll love it, too. Surely these are reasons enough.

 

2
racks of lamb
1
cup toasted bread crumbs
½
teaspoon thyme
1
tablespoon chopped jresh basil, or 1 teaspoon dried basil
¼
cup toasted pecans
Salt and pepper to taste
Olive oil
About 2 to 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

Have the butcher french the bones on the racks. Or, if you're handy with a knife, you can do it yourself by scraping away the thin strip of meat and fat from the ends to the eye, leaving the bare bones. In either case, have the chops cracked at the base for easy carving.

Combine in a food processor the bread crumbs, thyme, basil, toasted pecans, and salt and pepper, and whirl until the nuts are finely chopped and the ingredients are well combined.

Preheat the oven to 400°. Pour a thin film of olive oil into a hot skillet, and brown the racks. Let them cool a bit, then coat the meat with Dijon mustard, and press the bread-crumb mixture into the mustard to make a crust. Arrange the racks on a baking sheet, and cook them for 25 minutes (for medium-rare meat).

Cut the chops apart, and serve them immediately.

 

Makes 4 servings

 

T
hyme is one of the most popular herbs in the Caribbean. At the open-air market on Saturday morning in Road Town, you can find bouquets of parsley, celery, and thyme, locally known simply as "seasonings.
"

The tiny oval leaves of thyme release an earthy, pungent aroma that permeates many Caribbean dishes. It is this flavor that bridges the gap between sweet and hot, spicy and delicate, making island spices such as allspice and nutmeg compatible with assertive flavors such as that of Scotch bonnet peppers.

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