The Unofficial Downton Abbey Cookbook (44 page)

As turtle was quite pricey to ship to England, most British citizens had to make do with “mock turtle soup,” which used brains, organs, or scrap meat such as from a calf’s head to replicate the texture and flavor of the soup. Below is an authentic recipe from the early 1900s that ex-housemaid Ethel Parks would likely cook while trying to raise her son without financial help from Major Bryant.

1 calf’s head

1 gallon water

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cup unsalted butter

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pound ham, cubed

1 shallot, diced

4 celery stalks, diced

1 leek, diced

1 medium yellow onion, diced

1 small turnip, diced

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teaspoon fresh parsley, ground

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teaspoon fresh thyme, ground

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teaspoon marjoram, ground

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teaspoon fresh basil, finely chopped

1 bay leaf

4 cloves, ground

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cup flour

Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

1 cup dry sherry

1 lemon, juiced

12 forcemeat balls, preferably made of veal, already baked

1. Wash the half calf’s head thoroughly. Cut all flesh from the bones and tie together in a cheesecloth.
   
2. Pour water into a large stockpot and bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer at medium heat. Place cheesecloth full of meat, along with the calf’s head bones, into water. Continue simmering, stirring occasionally, for at least 3 hours.
   
3. Remove the calf’s head meat and bones, then strain stock into a clean pot. Allow stock to get cold, then remove all of the excess fat.
   
4. Heat butter in a large skillet, adding ham, shallot, celery stalks, leek, onion, and turnip. Then add spices and continue to grill.
   
5. When ham and vegetables are fried, add flour and continue to cook until mixture is a light brown, stirring constantly to keep from burning.
   
6. Reheat stock in a large stockpot. Heat to a boil, then allow to simmer. Add ham-vegetable-flour mixture, then allow to simmer for 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and let simmer for an additional half hour.
   
7. Remove all fat as it rises. Strain stock into another pot, then cut calf’s head meat into medium-sized pieces, about three-bites-worth. Add this meat to stock.
   
8. Increase heat to a boil, then let cool. Best if served, reheated, 24 hours later.
   

If served at a house of repute, mock turtle soup would be served, if possible, in a turtle shell, so as to give the semblance of being actual turtle soup. However, those who were serving actual turtle soup could be lax on appearances and would plate their soup in a tureen, since they possessed the real deal.

In classic English literature, eating pea soup is considered a sign of poverty. Thus, this would be a dish the staff and townsfolk of Downton Abbey would eat, but not the lords and ladies. No doubt Mrs. Patmore would make a hearty and delicious split-pea soup to warm her staff on cold winter nights. If Mrs. Patmore wanted to offer this classic soup with a bit of variety, she only need to cook this soup with yellow split peas, as it would thus be called a “London particular” after the thick yellow smogs for which London was famous until the passing of the Clean Air Act in 1956.

4 cups chicken or vegetable stock

4 cups water

1 pound ham bone

2
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cups green split peas

1 cup diced onions

1 teaspoon kosher salt

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teaspoon ground black pepper

1 large clove of garlic, chopped

2 bay leaves

1 pinch thyme

2 cups chopped celery stalks

2 cups chopped carrots

1 cup diced potato

1. Pour stock and water into a large stockpot and bring to a boil. Add ham bone, then lower heat to simmer stock for 1 hour, stirring every 15 minutes.
   
2. Add peas to stockpot and allow to soak, liquid still simmering, for 15 minutes. Then add onions, salt, pepper, garlic, bay leaves, and thyme. Cover, bringing soup to a boil, then simmer for 1
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   –2 hours, stirring occasionally.
   
3. Remove bone from soup and cut off meat. Dice the meat into bite-sized pieces and return to soup. Discard the bone. Add celery, carrots, and potato to soup. Then cook slowly, uncovered, for 30–45 minutes or until vegetables are tender.
   

When you are finished with your soup, it is polite to leave your soup spoon on the soup plate or saucer, handle to the right, over the edge of the plate, parallel to the table’s edge. The spoon should
never
be left in the soup bowl or in any bowl or cup.

Mutton, a popular meat in Edwardian England, comes from a fattened sheep at least two years in age. While wealthy Edwardians served mutton with a variety of fancy sauces created by the famous Chef Escoffier, the servants at Downton Abbey would be happy to eat their mutton in this filling stew.

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cup grapeseed oil

4 carrots, diced

4 celery sticks, diced

2 white onions, diced

6 garlic cloves, diced

6 sprigs rosemary

1 (4-pound) leg of mutton, diced off the bone

1 bottle red wine

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cup tomato paste

4 cups low-sodium vegetable stock

6 Yukon Gold potatoes, diced

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

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cup unsalted butter

1. In a large dutch oven, heat grapeseed oil over medium heat until it begins to glisten. Stir in carrots, celery, onions, garlic, and rosemary, and sauté until onions are translucent, about 5–7 minutes.
   
2. Add mutton pieces and stir until all sides have browned. Lower heat, then stir in wine and tomato paste; simmer for 10 minutes. Increase heat and add vegetable stock, bringing mixture to a boil for 3 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low and cover, cooking for 4–5 hours. Be careful to not let liquid completely dissipate by adding extra stock or water if necessary.
   
3. Meanwhile, in a medium-sized bowl, thoroughly mix potatoes with salt and pepper.
   
4. Once meat starts to show signs of tenderness, add seasoned potatoes. The stew is ready to be eaten once the meat is extremely tender. Whisk in butter to thicken sauce before serving.
   

Try this dish with a large glass of red wine, some crusty bread, and Asparagus with Hollandaise Sauce or with Daisy’s Noisette Potatoes (see both recipes in
Chapter 6
).

Mrs. Patmore would be well aware of the rejuvenating effects of a solid meal, and would likely have made this filling stew for the staff during a particularly busy week full of houseguests. Perhaps, for example, when Mr. Pamuk and all the other guests are in town for the hunt, Mrs. Patmore would offer this dish as a way to soothe the servants’ tired souls and feet.

2 pounds sirloin steak, trimmed and cut into
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-inch cubes

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

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pound red potatoes, cubed

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pound small white boiling potatoes, cubed

1 cup beef broth

1 cup water

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 yellow onion, sliced

2 cloves garlic, peeled

2 bay leaves

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon white sugar

2 teaspoons brown sugar

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teaspoon freshly ground pepper