The Wine Savant: A Guide to the New Wine Culture (22 page)

El Bulli, 85

environmentalism, 73

enzymes, 61

Epicurean Wines, 51

Epiré, Domaine d', 138

Eric Solomon/European Cellars, 53

European Union, 156

Ewing-Mulligan, Mary, 14, 27

Executive Wine Seminars, 167

Failla Wines, 108

Falanghina grape, 153

Falernian, 159

Fat Duck, 85

Fiano grape, 153

Fields, W. C., 34

flavonoids, 18

flavor, 73

aftertaste of, 30–31

of alcohol, 39–40

from barrels, 61–65

chemistry of, 29, 38–41

concentration and complexity of, 22–23, 103, 133

crescendo of, 23

fruit, 5, 23–24, 30, 33, 99

length and finish of, 23, 103

manipulation of, 68, 75–78, 79

metaphors for, 6, 15, 16–17, 27, 28, 30, 63

nose and perception of, 41

oak, 61–66, 96, 99, 129–30

Old vs. New World, 33–34

perception vs. preference in, 41

receiving stimuli of, 41

spoiled, 38–40

see also
taste

foie gras, 18

Fonseca, 56

food:

Asian, 91–93

beer and, 91, 92

Chinese, 92

eclectic menus of, 85–87

French paradox and, 18

Indian, 91–92

Japanese, 92

Korean, 92

pairing wine with, 4, 7, 67–68, 81–93, 131

spicy, 91–92

Thai, 92

Vietnamese, 923

food critics, 86

Foreau, Philippe, 137

Fouquet, Bernard, 137

Fourrier, Domaine, 124

Fox, Arthur L., 39

Fox Searchlight, 3

France, 26–27, 103

Alsace region of, 32, 49, 69, 132, 139

Anjou appellation in, 160

appellation system in, 103–6

Bandol, 161

Beaujolais region of, 77, 106, 154–55

Bordeaux region of, 7, 8, 27, 28, 45–48, 50, 63, 65, 79, 95, 100, 103, 104, 110–12, 114–19, 123–24, 129, 144, 160, 163–64

Bourgueil appellation in, 160

Burgundy region of, 8, 33, 45, 47–48, 49, 50, 64, 67, 69, 84, 95, 96, 100, 103–5, 107, 110–26, 128, 147, 164, 165

Chablis region of, 49

Champagne region of, 8, 52, 69, 116–18, 128, 164, 166

Chinon appellation in, 160

Côte d'Or, 121

Languedoc region of, 51

Loire Valley region of, 9, 32, 71–72, 92, 106, 107, 136, 137, 160, 165

Middle Ages in, 107

Montlouis appellation in, 137

national diet of, 18

Provence, 24

Rhône Valley region of, 46, 50, 65, 69, 100, 112, 145, 161, 164

Saumur-Champigny appellation in, 160

sommeliers in, 82–83

Vouvray appellation in, 136–37

wine consumption in U.S. vs. that in, 4

wine importers of, 51–52, 53

wines of, 4, 14, 24, 25, 32–33, 46, 47–50, 94–95, 170–73

Franco, Francisco, 155

François Raveneau Chablis Les Clos, Domaine (Burgundy), 138

French Paradox, 18

French Revolution, 121

Freud, Sigmund, 60–61

Friedrich, Jacqueline, 137

Fritz Haag Estate, 134

F.X. Pichler Winery, 139

Galivan Mountains, 98

Gallo Winery, 22, 146

Gallup poll, 4

garrigue
, 24

Gatinois Champagne, 118

Geneva, 163

Georges Roumier, Domaine, 125

German Wine Law of 1971, 133

Germany, 70

Mosel Valley region of, 8, 135, 166

wine importers of, 52, 134

wines of, 56, 91, 92, 132–35, 139, 165–66

Gerry Dawes Selections—the Spanish Artisan Wine Group, 52

Geyserville Vineyard, 96

Giacomo Conterno Winery, 55

Giamatti, Paul, 3

Gironde River, 111

Giuseppe Mascarello, 55

Gladwell, Malcolm, 26

glass stoppers, 58

globalization, 5, 8, 9, 152–54

global warming, 133

Godello grape, 152, 156, 157, 159

Goode, Jamie, 40

grandes marques
, 116–18

Grand-Puy-Lacoste, 22

grapes, 32, 74, 75, 81, 151–61

Aglianico, 8, 152, 153, 159–60

Albariño, 8, 135, 152, 156, 157, 159

Aligoté, 111

Arneis, 153

Assyrtiko, 158

Barbera, 160

Blaufränkisch, 8, 159

blending of, 117, 157, 169

Bual, 169

buying and selling of, 116, 117

Cabernet Franc, 157, 160–61

Cabernet Sauvignon, 8, 66, 110, 111, 152–53, 160

Carmenere, 6–7

Chardonnay, 8, 49, 66, 72, 97, 100, 111, 117, 127, 135, 136, 152, 159, 166

Chenin Blanc, 72, 135–36, 159

Falanghina, 153

fashionable, 99

fermented juice of, 10, 13, 32, 60, 65, 102, 130, 132–33

Fiano, 153

Godello, 152, 156, 157, 159

Grenache, 65

Grüner Veltliner, 8, 135

harvesting of, 68, 101, 133

Hondarrabi Zuri, 156

influence of vineyard reflected in, 23, 96

labeling by variety of, 49, 50

Lagrein, 8, 160

Malmsey, 169

malolactic fermentation of, 29, 130

Malvasia, 169

Mataró, 161

matching soil with, 104, 107

Mencia, 157–58

Merlot, 66, 111, 152–53, 160

Mourvèdre, 161

Nebbiolo, 63, 160

Negroamaro, 153

Nero d'Avola, 153

obscure, 8

País, 6

pest attacks on, 7, 153–55

Pinot Meunier, 117

Pinot Noir, 8, 67, 97, 99, 100, 101, 103, 110–11, 117, 121, 136, 166

polyphenols in, 18–20

Prädikat scale of, 133, 165

premium, 66

Rhône, 145

Ribolla Gialla, 152

Riesling, 8, 131–32, 134–35, 136, 150

ripening of, 102, 133, 164, 166

rotting of, 49

Sangiovese, 160

Sauvignon Blanc, 127–28, 135, 136, 152–53, 157

Sercial, 169

stemware specific to, 34, 35

sugar in, 65, 66, 133

Syrah, 8, 100, 152

Terrantez, 169

Treixadura, 151

Verdejo, 8, 156, 157

Vermentino, 158

volatile organic compounds in, 29

white, 111, 135, 158

Zinfandel, 65

Grapes of Spain, 53

Great Wine Swindle, The
(Gluck), 14

Greece:

ancient, 82, 159

wines of, 9, 158

Grenache, 108, 127, 146

Grenache Blanc, 108

Grenache grape, 65

Grgich, Mike, 129

Grieco, Paul, 131

“grower Champagne” movement, 117–18

Grüner Veltliner, 35, 159

Grüner Veltliner grape, 8, 135

Guthrie, Wells, 100–101

Guy Roulot, Domaine, 125

Guy Roulot Meursault-Perrieres, Domaine (Burgundy), 138

Haas, Robert, 51

Hamacher, Eric, 84

Hanzell Vineyards, 109, 129–30, 131

Harvey, Kevin, 100, 101–2

Haut-Brion, Château, 50, 94, 123, 124

1945, 124

1959, 25

1961, 25, 162

1989, 25, 90

Heitz Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, 1974, 25, 162

Hemingway, Ernest, 54

Henri Billiot Champagne, 118

Henriot Champagne, 25

Henry, Patrick, 14

Hermann J. Wiemer Winery, 135

Hermitage, 25, 105, 145

Hollywood, Calif., 82

Home Vineyard, 102

Hondarrabi Zuri grape, 156

Hong Kong, 8

Horseshoe Vineyard, 131

How to Love Wine
(Asimov), 14–15

Huet, Domaine, 136–37

hydrogen peroxide, 120

Indian wine market, 8

In Pursuit of Balance, 84

International Pinot Noir Celebration (IPNC), 168

Italy:

Alto-Adige region in, 160

Campania in, 159–60

Piedmont region of, 48, 55, 63, 85, 160, 166

wine importers of, 52

wines of, 4, 33, 35, 48, 49, 55, 90, 153, 159–60

Jacques Lassaigne Champagne, 118

Jacques Selosse Champagne, 118, 138

Jefferson, Thomas, 168

French food and wine favored by, 14

Jenny & François Selections, 51

Jensen, Josh, 96–98

J.-F. Coche-Dury Corton ­Charlemagne, Domaine, 138

1996, 25

J. J. Christoffel Wine, 134

J. J. Prüm Estate, 134, 139

Johnnes, Daniel, 83–84, 167–68

Joly, Nicolas, 71–73, 138

Jon-David Headrick Selections, 52

Jordan, Ehren, 146–47

Jorge Ordóñez, 52

José Pastor Selections, 52

Joseph Phelps Vineyards, 69, 98

Judgment of Paris (1976), 14, 94–95, 96, 97, 100, 108

Kabinett, 133, 165–66

Kafka, Franz, 70

Keller Wines, 139

Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, 51

Keynes, John Maynard, 90

Kramer, Matt, 9, 15–16, 27, 38, 107

Krankl, Manfred, 145–46

Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil, 25, 138

Kurniawan, Rudy, 10

Kutch, Jamie, 100

Kutch Wines, 108

Kysela Père et Fils, 53

labels, 6, 116

California Grand Cru
on, 103–4

grape varieties on, 49, 50

place of origin on, 49, 50, 155

regulation and custom pertaining to, 49–50, 65

switching of, 13

lactic acid, 130

Lafite, Château, 123

1982, 124

Lafite-Rothschild, Château, 111

Asian market for, 8

fake, 10

Lafleur, Château, 124

1947, 164

1982, 25

Lafon, Dominique, 126, 145, 146–47

Lafon Meursault-Perrieres, Domaine (Burgundy), 138

Lagrein grape, 8, 160

La Paulée de New York, 84, 167–68

Lapierre, Marcel, 6, 78

La Rioja Alta, 55

Larmandier-Bernier Champagne, 118

Latour, Château, 123

gran vin
of, 54

1961, 124

Laureau, Damien, 138

Lebowitz, Fran, 61

L'Eglise-Clinet, 1947, 164

Leflaive, Domaine, 69, 120, 125

Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet, Domaine (Burgundy), 138

Lehman Brothers, 141

Leonardo LoCascio/Winebow, 52

Leroy, Domaine, 69, 124

L'Évangile, 1947, 164

Lewin, Benjamin, 114

Liebfraumilch, Blue Nun, 134

Lioco Winery, 108

liquor:

sales regulation of, 43–44

wine drinking vs. drinking of, 3–4

lobster, 90

Loire River, 71

London, 8, 85

Loosen, Erni, 145

López de Heredia, 17, 55

Riojas, 17

Rosé, 17

Los Angeles Times
, 45–46

Louis/Dressner Selections, 52

Louis Roederer, 69

lungs, 19

Luyt, Louis-Antoine, 6

Lynch, Kermit, 26–27, 51

Mackay, Jordan, 84

Mâcon, 122, 146

Mâcon-Lugny, 50

Macon-Villages, 88

Madeira, 5, 56, 168–70

decline of, 169

fortification of, 168–69

Mahle, Pax, 98

Maison Louis Jadot, 116, 122

Maison Louis Latour, 116

Malmsey grape, 169

Malvasia grape, 169

Marc de Grazia Selections, 52

Margaux, Château, 123

2000, 124

Marqués de Murietta, 55

Marqués de Riscal, 55

Marquis d'Angerville, Domaine, 116, 125

Martine's Wines, 52

Martin Ray Winery, 97

Master Sommelier exam, 82

Mataró grape, 161

Matt Kramer on Wine
(Kramer), 27

Mayacamas Vineyards, 55, 108, 131

McCarthy, Ed, 27

Mencia, 13

Mencia grape, 157–58

Merlot, 4

backlash against, 128

Cabernet Sauvignon blended with, 111

California, 64, 66

French, 111, 127, 128

Merlot grape, 66, 111, 152–53, 160

Meursault, 84

Meyers, Duncan Arnot, 98

Michael Skurnik Wines, 53

Michel Chapoutier, 69

Michel Lafarge, Domaine, 125

Mina, Michael, 84

Mission Haut-Brion, Château La, 124

1961, 25

Moët & Chandon Champagne, 116–17

Mollydooker, 61

Mondavi, Robert, 66

Mondavi, Tim, 66

Mondavi Reserve, 96

Monika Caha Selections, 51

Monte Bello, Ridge, 55, 95–96, 104

Montelena, Chateau, 55, 95–96, 104, 108, 131

Chardonnay, 1973, 94, 129–30

Monterey, Calif., 98

Montille, Domaine de, 125

Montrachet, 35, 83, 104

Montrachet restaurant, 83

Morgon, 78

Moueix, Christian, 145

Mount Eden Vineyards, 98, 131

Mourvèdre grape, 161

Mouton Rothschild, 94

1945, 44

Mouton Rothschild, Château, 123

1947, 164

1973, 124

1982, 25, 162

Mugnier, Domaine, 48, 125

Musigny 2005, 48

Mugnier, Frédéric, 84

Muscadet, 13, 157

Musigny Vineyard, 126

Nalle Winery, 109

natural wine movement, 75–80

Nebbiolo grape, 63, 160

Negroamaro grape, 153

Neil Empson Selections, 52

Nero d'Avola grape, 153

New Age philosophy, 73

New York, N.Y., 8, 72, 78, 83–84, 135

wine drinking in, 4, 153, 156

New York Finger Lakes region, 135

New York Times
, 14, 19

New Zealand, 57

wines of, 9, 33, 34, 103, 112

Nieporent, Drew, 83

oak, 62–65

American, 64

bark of, 68

chips of, 64, 76

flavor of, 62–65, 66, 96, 99, 129–30

French, 63, 64, 129–30

Limousin, 129

new, 6, 61, 62–66, 99, 102, 107

Slovenian, 63

oenology, 40

oenophilia, 4, 7, 8, 37

accessibility of, 9

American, 5

defense of, 7, 12–20

exploring the culture of, 11

pleasures of, 31–32

stereotypes of, 3

wine snobbery vs., 13–15