To reassure him I give him a parting smile and start off but he keeps alertly watching every flicker of my smiler and eyelash, I can't turn away with an arbitrary leer, I want to smile him on his way, he replies by smiles of his own equally elaborate and psychologically corroborative, we swing informations back and forth with crazy smiles of farewell, so much so, El Indio stumbles in the extreme strain of this, over a rock, and throws still a further parting smile of reassurance capping my own, till no end in sight, but we stumble in our opposite directions as though reluctantâwhich reluctance lasts a brief second, the fresh air of the night hits your newborn solitude and both you and your Indio go off in a new man and the smile, part of the old, is removed, no longer necessitaâHe to his home, I to mine, why smile about it all night long except in companyâThe dreariness of the world politelyâ
I GO DOWN the Wild Street of Redondas, in the rain, it hasn't started increasing yet, I push through and dodge through moils of activity with whores by the hundreds lined up along the walls of Panama Street in front of their crib cells where big Mamacita sits near the cocina pig pottery, as you leave they ask a little for the pig who also represents the kitchen, the chow,
cocina
,âTaxis are slanting by, plotters are aiming for their dark, the whores are nooking the night with their crooking fingers of Come On, young men pass and give em the once over, arm in arm in crowds the young Mexicans are Casbah buddying down their main girl street, hair hanging over their eyes, drunk, borracho, longlegged brunettes in tight yellow dresses grab them and sock their pelvics in, and pull their lapels, and pleadâthe boys wobbleâthe cops down the street pass idly like figures on little wheel-thucks rolling by invisibly under the sidewalkâOne look through the bar where the children gape and one through the whoreboy bar of queers where spidery heroes perform whore dances in turtleneck sweaters for assembled critical elders of 22âlook through both holes and see the eye of the criminal, criminal in heaven.âI plow through digging the scene, swinging my bag with the bottle in it, I twist and give the whores a few twisting looks as I walks, they send me stereotyped soundwaves of scorn from cussin doorwaysâI am starving, I start eating El Indio's sandwich he gave me which at first I'd sought to refuse so as to leave it for the cat but El Indio insisted it was a present for me, so I nakedly breast-high in one delicate hold as I walk along the streetâseeing the sandwich I begin to eat itâfinishing it, I start buying tacos as I run by, any kind, any stand where they yell “Joven!”âI buy stinking livers of sausages chopped in black white onions steaming hot in grease that crackles on the inverted fender of the grilleâI munch down on heats and hotsauce salsas and come to devouring whole mouthloads of fire and rush alongânevertheless I buy another one, further, two, of broken cow-meat hacked on the woodblock, head and all it seems, bits of grit and gristle, all mungied together on a mangy tortilla and chewed down with salt, onions, and green leafâdicedâa delicious sandwich when you get a good standâThe stands are 1,2,3 in a row a half mile down the street, tragically lit by candles and dim bulbs and strange lanterns, the whole of Mexico a Bohemian Adventure in the great outdoor plateau night of stones, candle and mistâI pass Plaza Garibaldi the hot spot of the police, strange crowds are grouping in narrow streets around quiet musicians that only later faintly you hear corneting round the blockâMarimbas are drumming in the big barsâRich men, poor men, in wide hats mingleâCome out of swinging doors spitting cigar putts and clapping big hands over their jock as though they were about to dive in a cold brookâguiltyâUp the side streets dead buses waddling in the mud holes, spots of fiery yellow whoredress in the dark, assembled leaners and up against the wall lovers of the loving Mexican nightâPretty girls passing, every age, all the comic Gordos and me turn big heads to watch them, they're too beautiful to bearâ
I rock right by the Post Office, cross the bottom of Juarez, the Palace of Fine Arts sinking nearby,âyoke myself to San Juan Letran and fall to hiking up fifteen blocks of it fast passing delicious places where they make the churros and cut you hot salt sugar butter bites of fresh hot donut from the grease basket, that you crunch freshly as you cover the Peruvian night ahead of your enemies on the sidewalkâAll kinds of crazy gangs are assembled, chief gleeful leaders getting high on gang leadership wear crazy woollen Scandanavian Ski hats over their zoot paraphenalias and Pachuco haircutsâOther day here I'd passed a gang of children in a gutter their leader dressed as a clown (with nylon stocking over head) and wide rings painted around the eyes, the littler kids have imitated him and attempted similar clown outfits, the whole thing gray and blackened eyes with white loops, like silks of great racetracks the little gang of Pinocchioan heroes (and Genet) paraphernaliaing on the street curb, an older boy making fun of the Clown Hero “What are you doing clowning, Clown Hero?âThere ain't no Heaven anywhere?” “There ain't no Santa Claus of Clown Heroes, mad boy”âOther gangs of semi-hipsters hide in front of nightclub bars with wronks and noise inside, I fly by with one quick Walt Whitman look at all that file derollâIt starts raining harder, I've got a long way to go walking and pushing that sore leg right along in the gathering rain, no chance no intention whatever of hailing a cab, the whiskey and the Morphine have made me unruffled by the sickness of the poison in my heart.
WHEN YOU HAVE no more numbers in Nirvana then there won't be such a thing as “numberless” but the crowds on San Juan Letran were like numberlessâI say “Count all these sufferings from here to the end of the endless sky which is no sky and see how many you can add together to make a figure to impress the Boss of Dead Souls in the Meat Manufactory in city City CITY everyone of them in pain and born to die, milling in the streets at 2 A M underneath those imponderable skies”âtheir enormous endlessness, the sweep of the Mexican plateau away from the Moonâliving but to die, the sad song of it I hear sometimes on my roof in the Tejado district, rooftop cell, with candles, waiting for my Nirvana or my Tristessaâneither come, at noon I hear “La Paloma” being played on mental radios in the fallways between the tenement windowsâthe crazy kid next door sings, the dream is taking place right now, the music is so sad, the French horns ache, the high whiney violins and the deberratarra-rabaratarara of the Indian Spanish announcer. Living but to die, here we wait on this shelf, and up in heaven is all that gold open caramel, ope my doorâDiamond Sutra is the sky.
I crash along drunkenly and bleakly and hard with kicking feet over the precarious sidewalk slick of vegetable oil Tehuantepec, green sidewalks, swarmed with scumworm invisible but in highâdead women hiding in my hair, passing underneath the sandwich and chairâ“You're nuts!” I yell to the crowds in English “You don't know what in a hell you're doing in this eternity bell rope tower swing to the puppeteer of Magadha, Mara the Tempter, insane, . . . And you all eagle and you beagle and you buyâAll you bingle you baffle and you lieâYou poor motherin bloaks pourin through the juice parade of your Main Street Night you don't know that the Lord has arranged everything in sight.” “Including your death.” “And nothing's happening. I am not me, you are not ye, they unnumbered are not they, and One Un-Number Self there is no such thing.”
I pray at the feet of man, waiting, as they.
As they? As Man? As he? There is no He. There is only the unsayable divine word. Which is not a Word, but a Mystery.
At the root of the Mystery the separation of one world from another by a sword of light.â
The winners of tonight's ball game in the open mist outside Tacabatabavac are romping by in the street swinging their baseball bats at the crowd showing how great they can hit and the crowd walks unconcernedly around because they are children not juvenile delinquents. They pull their beak baseball hats tight-hawk down their faces, in the drizzle, tapping their glove they wonder “Did I make a bad play in the fifth inning? Didn't I make it up with that
heet
in the seventh inning?”
AT THE END of San Juan Letran is that last series of bars that end in a ruined mist, fields of broken adobe, no bums hidden, all wood, Gorky, Dank, with sewers and puddles, ditches in the street five feet deep with water in the bottomâpowdery tenements against the light of the nearby cityâI watch the final sad bar-doors, where flashes of women golden shining lace behinds I can see and feel like flying in yet like a bird in flight twist on. Kids are in the doorway in goof suits, the band is wailing a chachacha inside, everybody's knee is knocking to bend as they pop and wail with the mad music, the whole club is rocking,
down
, an American Negro walking with me would have said “These cats are stoning themselves on some real hip kicks, they are goofing all the time, they wail, they spend all the time knocking and knocking for that
bread
, for
that girl
, they're up in against the doorways, man, wailing allâyou know? They don't know when to stop. It's like Omar Khayyam, I wonder what the vintners buy, one half so precious, as what they sell.” (My boy Al Damlette.)
I TURN OFF at these last bars and it really starts raining hard and I walk fast as I can and come to a big puddle and jump out of it all wet and jump right in again and cross itâThe morphine prevents me from feeling the wet, my skin and limbs are numb,âlike a kid when he goes skating in winter, falls through ice, runs home with skates under his arm so he won't catch cold, I kept plowing through the Pan American rain and above is the gigantic roar of a Pan American Airplane coming in to land at Mexico City Airport with passengers from New York looking for to find the other end of dreams. I look up into the drizzle and watch their tail firesparkâyou won't find me landing over great cities and all I do is clutch the side of the seat and wobble as the air pilot expertly leads us into a tremendous flaming crash against the side of warehouses in the slum district of Old Indian Townâwhat? with all them rat tat tans with revolvers in their pockets pushing through my foggy bones looking for something made of gold, and then rats gnaw ya.
I'd rather walk than ride the airplane, I can fall on the ground flat on my face and die that way.âWith a watermelon under my arm.
Mira
.
I COME UP gorgeous Orizaba Street (after crossing wide muddy parks near Ciné Mexico and the dismal trolley street called after dismal General Obregon in the rainy night, with roses in his mother's hairâ) Orizaba Street has a magnificent fountain and pool in a green park at a round O-turn in residential splendid shape of stone and glass and old grills and scrolly worly lovely majesties that when looked at by the moon blend with magic inner Spanish gardens of an architecture (if architecture you will) designed for lovely nights at home. Andalusian in intention.
The fountain is not spraying water at 2 A M and as though it would have to, in the driving rain, and me rolling by there sitting on my railroad switchblock passing over pinking sparking switches on tracks of underneath-the-earth like the cops on the little whorestreet 35 blocks back and way downtownâ
It's the dismal rainy night caught up with meâmy hair is dripping water, my shoes are sloppingâbut I have my jacket on, and it is soaking on the outsideâbut it is rain repellentâ“Why I bought it back in the Richmond Bank” I'm tellin heroes about it later, in a littlekid dream.âI run on home, walking past the bakery where they don't at 2 A M anymore make latenight donuts, twisters taken out of ovens and soaked in syrup and sold to you through the bakery window for two cents apiece and I'd buy baskets of them in my younger daysâclosed now, rainy night Mexico City of the present contains no roses and no fresh hot donuts and it's bleak. I cross the last street, slow down and relax letting out breath and stumbling on my muscles, now I go in, death or no death, and sleep the sweet sleep of white angels.
But my door is locked, my street door, I have no key for it, all lights are out, I stand there dripping in the rain with no place to dry up and sleepâI see there's a light in Old Bull Gaines' window and I go over and amazedly look in, just see his golden curtain, I realize “If I can't get in my own place then I'll just knock on Bull's window and sleep in his easy chair.” Which I do, knocking, and he comes out of the dark establishment of about 20 people and in his bathrobe walks through the little bit of rain between building and the doorâcomes and snaps open the iron door. I go in after himâ“Can't go in my own place” I sayâHe wants to know what Tristessa said about tomorrow, when they get more stuff from the Black Market, the Red Market, the Indian MarketâSo it's alright with Old Bull I sleep and stay in his roomâ“Till the street door is opened at 8 A M” I add, and suddenly decide to curl up on the floor with a flimsy coverlet, which, instantly as done, is like a bed of soft fleece and I lay there divine, legs all tired and clothes partly wet (am wrapped in Old Bull's big towel robe like a ghost in a Turkish bath) and the whole journey in the rain done, all I have to do is lie dreaming on the floor. I curl up and start sleeping. In the middle of the night now, with the small yellowbulb on, and rain crashing outside, Old Bull Gaines has closed shutters tight, is smoking cigarette after cigarette and I can't breathe in the room and he's coughing “Ke-he!” the dry junkey cough, like a protest, like yelling
Wake Up
!âhe lies there, thin, emaciated, long nosed, strangely handsome and gray haired and lean and mangy 22 in his derelict worldling (“student of souls and cities” he calls himself) decapitated and bombed out by morphine frameâYet all the guts in the world. He starts munching on candy, I lay there waking up realizing that Old Bull is munching on candy noisily in the nightâAll the sides to this dreamâAnnoyed, I glance anxiously around and see him myorking and monching on condy after condy, what a preposterous thing to do at 4 A M in your bedâThen at 4:30 he's up and boiling down a couple of capsules of morphine in a spoon,âyou see him, after the shot has been sucked in and siphoned out, with big glad tongue licking so he can spit on the blackened bottom of the spoon and rub it clean and silver with a piece of paper, using, to really polish the spoon, a pinch of ashesâAnd he lays back, feeling it a little, it takes ten minutes, a muscle bang,âby about twenty minutes he might feel alrightâif not, there he is rustling in his drawer waking me up again, he's looking for his goof-ballsâ“So he can sleep.”