Read Where the Sea Used to Be Online
Authors: Rick Bass
They snowshoed down the trail and then turned up a side canyon of leafless aspen, heading into the mountains above them, silent on their snowshoes. They breathed heavily at first, unaccustomed to the rhythm of that particular labor, but moved strongly, their lungs filling easily in the cold air.
They crossed no tracks that day: the snow was still too fresh, the storm ongoing: all the animals were bedded down, waiting it out. For a while a pair of ravens followed them silently through the woods, through the falling snow, but they never made a sound, called out neither encouragement nor warning.
“What are you thinking about?” Matthew asked suddenly, when they stopped to rest. The sweat was pouring down them, and though Wallis was overheated, he knew he would grow quickly cold when they stopped moving.
Wallis started to tell him the truthâabout Mel being pregnantâbut instead said “Nothing,” and Matthew stared at himâthe ends of his hair beginning to freeze with small icicles. Matthew grunted and said, “Good, because there are elk just over this next rise.”
There were no tracks, and the rise was too high for him to have seen over it, but now the swirling winds brought their scent to Wallis, so strong and unmistakable that he didn't see how he could have missed it, and Matthew said, “Get your head out of your ass. Hunting's the one thing you can't fuck up at. You owe it to the animal you're about to kill”âand they crept up over the ridge. The elk were about fifty yards in front of them, bedded down in the snow beneath some scattered lodgepoles, a different elk beneath each tree. Some elk were bunched up together out in the open, as if in a barnyard, snow covering their backs as they lay resting. Their yellow hides seemed to glow, the only color in the storm, and Wallis and Matthew scanned the herd quickly, searching for antlers. There were a few spike bulls and rag-horns in the herdâtheir antlers rising above them like small nestsâand still the elk did not see or notice them, though Wallis could feel that he and Matthew were being watched, and that time was moving away quickly nowâthat they had only a few seconds left in which to study and analyze the situation, and then to choose whether to act.
“There she is,” Matthew whispered, pointing to their left, to the lead cow, the matriarch, who stood watching them. She had been posted as the lookout while the herd rested, and she stood there staring at the two men, trying to decide whether to sound the alarm. It was an awful responsibility for her. The cost of alarmâof two dozen cows, calves, and young bulls leaping to their feetâover ten thousand pounds of elkâand asking them to surge with adrenaline, to sprint away in belly-deep snowâwas not a cost to be weighed lightly in the winter.
Wallis and Matthew knew the decision she was going to make before she made itâcould feel it traveling in the air between themâand they scanned the herd quickly one last time for the outside chance of a hidden giant bull. The lead cow barked her alarm, whirled and ran toward the herd, and now they were all leaping to their feet and galloping with her, not even bothering to look back to see what had caused her to sound the alarm.
It was a feeling like having broken something: like having stepped on and shattered something. Divots of black earth flew in all directions, and rocks and stones clattered beneath the snow. There was the scent of elk urine and torn earth, a violence against the sky and the snow as they ran away, deeper into the forest.
The snow continued to fall steadily, as if already assuming its responsibility of filling in and smoothing over some wound. Wallis and Matthew went to look at the depressions in the snow where the elk had been resting. The heat of their huge bodies, though insulated by the hollow hairs of their coats, had finally melted the snowâthey'd been resting there a long timeâso that it had yielded to accept their shapes. But their bodies had cooled, over time, nestled in the damp snow, and the snow had begun to freeze again, to a watery, smoke-colored ice, clutching them. And still they had rested, had waited.
Only their scent remained. An inch of snow covered their beds. Already the black earth of their hoof-flight was hidden beneath snow.
“We'll follow them to the bull,” Matthew said. “We'll let them calm down a little. We'll let them slow to a walk and get back in single file. Then we'll follow them. They'll know we're behind them. They'll hear us, and sometimes catch a glimpse of us. Sometimes the wind will swirl and they'll catch a brief scent of us. They'll notice how the ravens look down on us as they fly past; they'll
feel
us behind themâand they'll keep movingânot at a run, but at a steady walk. They won't stop to rest again.
“We'll keep pushing them,” Matthew said. “We'll keep just the right amount of pressure on them, until they start to crack. They'll stop trying to outdistance us; they'll try and lose us. They'll go down steep ravines and then turn right back around and head straight up the steepest slopes. They'll disappear into the thicker timber, trying to wear us out and make us give up and turn around and go home. But we'll stay with them, always keeping the same amount of pressure on them: not too much, but not too little.
“Finally, they'll panic. They'll start running. They'll run to the biggest bull they can findâthey'll head for whatever ridge he's hanging out on, in the hopes that he can help defend them, one more time. They'll lead us straight to him. They'll betray him.”
“That's not nice,” Wallis said.
“No,” he agreed, “it's not.”
They sat there in the echo of the herd's flight and waited for them to calm down, somewhere out beyond. Their own snow beds began to form around them. They waited for an hourâMatthew was motionless, as if in a tranceâand then set out after the elk, barely able to follow the faint sign of their passage.
Later in the afternoon the elk understood that they were being followed and ascended into an alder jungle at dusk. But even in the dim light, and then the darkness, it was impossible to lose their trail, for there were so many of them.
The elk led them through one of the burns. The snow had extinguished all but the largest smoldering logs, around which they could still see glimpses of soil and rockâand some of the standing snags still glowed orange, sometimes breaking into sputtering flames when a breeze passed. At one point they got too close to the elkâthe elk had slowed at the other end of the burn to look back and determine whether they were still being followedâand Wallis and Matthew saw them standing just back in the shadows: the faint light of a handful of lantern snags flickering through the snow against their yellow hides, and the firelight dull against the polished antlers of the young bulls.
Wallis and Matthew stepped into the clearing of the burn, and across a distance of a hundred yards the elk watched for only a moment, as if to understand fully who and what the men were, and then they whirled once more and ran, disappearing into the night.
Wallis and Matthew set out after them.
Even without the tracks in the new snow, they could have followed them by scent alone. The odor was like a river winding through the woods, head-high at first, but then settling as it cooled, so that it was as if they were wading into that river of scent.
On through the night they traveled, crossing over north into Canada. Later in the night the elk descended and turned back south, unwilling to leave their home. Now, however, the wind was at their backs, and they couldn't tell what scents lay ahead of them; and so they had to be prudentâcould no longer afford the luxury of all-out flight. Matthew felt their increased discomfort, and backed off accordingly. If he and Wallis pushed the elk too hardâif they made them panicâthey might leave the area completely. They had to push them to the edge of despair, but not beyond.
Wallis knew that at dawn the ravens would start following them, wanting to see how it would turn out: having a stake in the matter. They would follow the men for a while, and then they would fly ahead and follow the elk herd for a whileâdemocratic, ambiguous, reading the paths of both predator and prey, waiting to see.
The elk climbed back to a ridge before daylight. As the sky paled and a gold bow of light appeared beneath the purple-gray snow clouds, the elk descended again into the deep timber, and Wallis saw how completely they were in control. They had stranded Wallis and Matthew on that bare ridge at daylightâhad put them up there to be illuminated by the rising sun as neatly as if tying off a knot. There wasn't anything to do but laugh. Wallis and Matthew could hear their barks of alarm down in the dense timber as they sighted the men and fled once more.
The sky was breaking into lightâthe cumulus clouds still spitting snow pelletsâbut a drying north wind was following the mountain's spine now, and there was going to be a lot of sun, at least in the first part of the day. River fog still covered the valley belowâhid everything beneath a glowing blue cloud.
About twenty yards downslope, two blue grouse, camouflaged against wind-scoured rocks, grew nervous at the men's pause, and tried to sneak away. Wallis and Matthew would never have seen them otherwiseâthe grouse had a ten-thousand-year head start, using all the time since the last glaciation to paint their feathers to the same hue as the rocks that remained.
“Now's your chance,” Matthew said. “If you're hungryâif you want anything.”
Wallis found a rock and hurled it at the closest one. Blue feathers flew, and the rock-struck grouse tumbled crippled down the slope, while the other one leapt untouched and sailed away down the mountain.
Wallis scrambled downslope after the injured one. It was a big strong birdâhe had only stunned itâand he caught it with both hands just as it was sorting itself out and about to take flight. He pinched off its head, then plucked the feathers in the north wind.
Matthew gathered some dry grasses and juniper and made a small fire. They seared the bird, ate it rare. Afterward, when they resumed their chase, Wallis was strengthened by the meat.
He hurried to stay up with Matthew, but whenever he could he stopped and quickly made small cairns of stones to mark the mountain where he had taken the grouse as well as to mark the path of the chase.
“Hurry up,” Matthew said once. “Stop fucking with those rocks.”
For a while, the tracks split in different directions through lodgepole blowdown, where the slender trees, having put all their energy not into root production or thick trunks, but into a quick ascent to the canopy, had drunk in all the light for a few years before growing sun-scalded, weak, and wobbly, and falling, one over the other, like matchsticks in the first strong wind.
They crawled over and through and under this chaotic spill of timber. It was a horizontal forest; sometimes the trees were stacked atop each other higher than their heads, a wooden gridlock through which they slithered. It would have been a sight to see the elk herd doing the sameâto see the seven-hundred-pound animals flowing through this near-impossible maze, gangly legs pulling themselves over the blowdownâbut they were fifteen minutes too late. The elk had already passed.
Â
B
Y EVENING THEY HAD COVERED ANOTHER FIFTEEN MILES,
and had swung back around to the south end of the valley. Sometimes it seemed the elk knew what the men were attempting to do, and would never lead them to the bull, would never betray him: he who had doubtless given creation to so many of the herd who now wandered the mountains below.
Wallis and Matthew stopped and drank from a creek. They passed by numerous herds of mule deer and whitetails. Often they came across the tracks of lynx, bobcats, and mountain lions. It was already a severe enough winter that some of the moose were shedding their antlers, which rested upturned and palmlike on the ground, gathering the falling snow as if with outstretched mahogany hands. Sometimes when Matthew found such an antlerâthe hair and blood still ringing it at the baseâhe would pick one up and hang it in a tree, would wedge it between branches. He would even pause to carve his initials and the date in some of the larger ones, before moving on; and as they traveled, Wallis would occasionally make small stone cairns, markers of their passage.
Because it was a clear night, they stopped to rest on the ridge where the herd had led them that evening. There was no bull on it, and the elk had immediately gone back down into more lodgepole blowdown. The sunset was lurid red, and Wallis and Matthew broke boughs to form brief napping spots at the base of a great fir. They could see the valley some twenty miles to the north.
Matthew no longer worried about alarming the elk: the elk knew where and what the men were and what they were after. Wallis and Matthew could hear them resting down in the lodgepole, grunting and barking as they settled cautiously, distrusting, into new snow beds beneath the frigid stars. As if wondering whether they would live another day; see the next night's stars.
Sometimes one of the young bulls, feeling both the pressure of pursuit and the anger of being pushed and cornered, would respond with coughs and high-pitched bugles. Wallis and Matthew knew that up on whatever mountain the bull was onâand it could have been any of a hundredâthe big bull, the largest bull, could hear the younger bulls, and was made aware that something was going on below, though it also seemed likely that he could have no idea that it was humans: that perhaps it had not happened this way enough times in his genetic historyâmen chasing elk through waist-deep snow, instead of giving upâfor him to even register concern.
Perhaps he thought simply that a lion or wolf was skulking around. Perhaps he put his head back down, laid it gracefully against his flankâthe tall antlers rising above him to catch the starsâand slept.
In the blue snowlight of the evening, Matthew went off to try to find a grouse, a rabbit, or anything; the carcass of a lion-killed deer. Wallis stayed on the ridge and tended the fire, imagining sleep, rest, and peace.