A Good Food Day: Reboot Your Health with Food That Tastes Great (27 page)
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Authors: Marco Canora,Tammy Walker
BOOK: A Good Food Day: Reboot Your Health with Food That Tastes Great
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TOMATO
SALSA
RADISH
SLAW
SALSA
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
I like a mild salsa that highlights the freshness of tomatoes, but you can fire it up with the addition of finely chopped jalapeño and serrano peppers. This salsa depends entirely on having good-quality tomatoes—don’t even attempt this with mealy or blah, out-of-season ones.
3 tomatoes, diced (about 2 cups)
1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced (about ½ cup)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Juice of 1 lime
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a bowl, combine the tomatoes, scallions, cilantro, olive oil, lime juice, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir to combine.
GUACAMOLEMAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
Avocados may be the closest you can get to a perfect food. They have good monounsaturated fat, fiber, and antioxidants, but what drives my uncontrollable obsession is their creamy, luscious texture. I’m always looking for new ways to eat avocados, but guacamole never gets old. If your avocados are slightly under-ripe, chop them and add to a bowl with the lime juice and a sprinkle of salt to soften up for 5 minutes before adding the rest of the ingredients.
2 avocados, roughly chopped
½ cup quartered grape tomatoes
½ red onion, diced (about ½ cup)
1 small fresh jalapeño pepper, seeded, ribbed, and minced (about 1½ teaspoons)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Juice of 1 lime
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a large bowl, combine the avocados, tomatoes, onion, jalapeño, cilantro, olive oil, lime juice, and salt and black pepper to taste. Toss the ingredients together and roughly mash the avocado with a fork until you reach the level of smoothness you like.
CABBAGE-RADISH
SLAW
MAKES ABOUT 3½ CUPS
I keep the slaw bright and tangy, so it’s a crunchy, light counterpoint to the richness of the salmon and guacamole, and the olive oil in the salsa.
3 cups shredded green cabbage (about 1 medium head)
3 radishes, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
Juice of 2 limes
1½ teaspoons fine sea salt
In a large bowl, toss together the cabbage, radishes, cilantro, lime juice, and salt. Let the slaw marinate for 15 minutes.
Whole Wheat Spaghetti “Con Sarde”
WHOLE
WHEAT SPAGHETTI “CON SARDE”
SERVES 4 TO 6
WHEAT SPAGHETTI “CON SARDE”
SERVES 4 TO 6
The briny, salty flavor of sardines plays a big role in a lot of Mediterranean and Italian dishes, but it’s this classic Sicilian pasta that I go back to again and again. Primarily made with inexpensive pantry staples, there is a perfect balance of textures and flavors in this dish. The intensity of sardines mellows out in a sauce of fennel, raisins, olive oil, and the salty umami of anchovies, and the whole thing gets a shower of toasted pine nuts and fennel fronds for a satisfying crunch. If you’ve previously shied away from sardines, this is a great place to start bringing out the best of these little beauties.
▪
▪
Sardines are high in omega-3s and contain almost no mercury. They’re usually found in canned form, but if you have the good fortune of finding fresh, plump sardines, a pound of those would be outstanding here. Ask your fishmonger to remove the heads, tails, and backbones.
Don’t drain the pasta in a colander—the starchy pasta water is used to moisten the pasta once it goes into the pan with the sauce.
¼ cup golden raisins
¼ cup toasted pine nuts
½ fennel bulb, minced, fronds reserved
2 olive oil–packed anchovy fillets
1 large garlic clove
1 pound whole wheat spaghetti
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
½ white onion, minced
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon tomato paste
2 (4-ounce) tins olive oil–packed sardines, drained and rinsed
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Juice of ½ lemon
1
Place the raisins in a small bowl and add just enough warm water to cover. Set aside to soak for at least 10 minutes.
Place the raisins in a small bowl and add just enough warm water to cover. Set aside to soak for at least 10 minutes.
2
Finely chop the pine nuts and fennel fronds together
and set aside. Mince the anchovy fillets and garlic together, then
mash them into a paste
.
Finely chop the pine nuts and fennel fronds together
and set aside. Mince the anchovy fillets and garlic together, then
mash them into a paste
.
3
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until it’s tender, but not quite al dente, 1 to 2 minutes less than the package says.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until it’s tender, but not quite al dente, 1 to 2 minutes less than the package says.
4
While the pasta cooks, in a large skillet, combine 4 tablespoons of the olive oil, the minced fennel bulb, onion, and a pinch of salt over high heat. Cook until the vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic-anchovy paste and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and stir to coat the vegetables. Cook for 1 minute, then add 3 tablespoons water and toss. Drain the raisins and add them to the pan along with the sardines and a pinch of salt. Cook for 2 minutes more. If waiting on your pasta, turn the heat off until just before you’re ready to add the cooked pasta.
While the pasta cooks, in a large skillet, combine 4 tablespoons of the olive oil, the minced fennel bulb, onion, and a pinch of salt over high heat. Cook until the vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic-anchovy paste and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and stir to coat the vegetables. Cook for 1 minute, then add 3 tablespoons water and toss. Drain the raisins and add them to the pan along with the sardines and a pinch of salt. Cook for 2 minutes more. If waiting on your pasta, turn the heat off until just before you’re ready to add the cooked pasta.
5
When the pasta is ready, use tongs to lift it out of the water and into the pan. Add ¼ cup of the pasta water and the parsley to the pan and cook, tossing frequently, for about 3 minutes. If needed, add another little bit of pasta water so the pasta is just wet. Add the lemon juice, the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste and toss well. Plate the pasta and sprinkle generously with the pine nut and fennel frond mixture.
When the pasta is ready, use tongs to lift it out of the water and into the pan. Add ¼ cup of the pasta water and the parsley to the pan and cook, tossing frequently, for about 3 minutes. If needed, add another little bit of pasta water so the pasta is just wet. Add the lemon juice, the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste and toss well. Plate the pasta and sprinkle generously with the pine nut and fennel frond mixture.
Toasted pine nuts and fennel fronds
WHEN YOU CUT DOWN ON THE
poor-quality meats and Flintstone-size portions, meat can play a valuable role in a healthy diet. This is especially true when it comes from pasture-raised animals on sustainable farms. Meat is a great source of protein, iron, zinc, and B vitamins. But you negate those benefits if you eat only conventionally raised meat, or go nuts on enormous quantities like I did. That’s the fast track to increased risk for type 2 diabetes and heart disease. I still have a weakness for slow-cooked pork, meatballs, and piles of prosciutto, but now meat is a complement, not the dominating element, in most of my meals. Besides paying attention to quantity, the keys to getting useful nutrients and vitamins and less of the artery-clogging, inflammation-inducing crap are to choose lean cuts more often and to source wisely.
poor-quality meats and Flintstone-size portions, meat can play a valuable role in a healthy diet. This is especially true when it comes from pasture-raised animals on sustainable farms. Meat is a great source of protein, iron, zinc, and B vitamins. But you negate those benefits if you eat only conventionally raised meat, or go nuts on enormous quantities like I did. That’s the fast track to increased risk for type 2 diabetes and heart disease. I still have a weakness for slow-cooked pork, meatballs, and piles of prosciutto, but now meat is a complement, not the dominating element, in most of my meals. Besides paying attention to quantity, the keys to getting useful nutrients and vitamins and less of the artery-clogging, inflammation-inducing crap are to choose lean cuts more often and to source wisely.
Overall, meat from
pasture-raised animals is leaner than that from grain-fed animals on factory farms, so the better quality the meat, the more likely it is to be better
for
you. Leaner beef options include flank steak, hanger steak, top sirloin, and top round. When shopping for pork or lamb, try tenderloin, loin chops, and leg. This may surprise you about poultry—white meat is only
a smidge leaner than dark. It’s certainly not enough to ban chicken thighs from your plate. There’s no denying that fatty meat is freakin’ tasty, but you’ll find that less fat doesn’t have to mean less taste. You just have to approach lean meats differently. Forget the thick steak, the 2-inch-tall burger patty, the whole roasted prime rib that’s all interior meat and little sear. The trick to maximizing the flavor of lean meats is in surface area, not thickness.
pasture-raised animals is leaner than that from grain-fed animals on factory farms, so the better quality the meat, the more likely it is to be better
for
you. Leaner beef options include flank steak, hanger steak, top sirloin, and top round. When shopping for pork or lamb, try tenderloin, loin chops, and leg. This may surprise you about poultry—white meat is only
a smidge leaner than dark. It’s certainly not enough to ban chicken thighs from your plate. There’s no denying that fatty meat is freakin’ tasty, but you’ll find that less fat doesn’t have to mean less taste. You just have to approach lean meats differently. Forget the thick steak, the 2-inch-tall burger patty, the whole roasted prime rib that’s all interior meat and little sear. The trick to maximizing the flavor of lean meats is in surface area, not thickness.
My favorite way to cook a piece of meat is to develop an incredibly flavorful caramelized crust by searing it with a little salt and olive oil in a hot pan. When you increase the surface area of meat that touches the pan, you get even more caramelizing, which equals more flavor. The key is to slice or pound the meat thin, increasing the ratio of exterior meat to interior meat—this approach is useful with many cuts of meat, but it’s especially suited to leaner cuts, like those in the
Rosemary-Lemon Minute Steak
and the
Flavor-Pounded Chicken
, where you can’t rely on high fat content for flavor. Yet even without a lot of fat on the meat, cooking with this method results in some tasty pan drippings. That meaty nectar gives you an opportunity to make a light, rich pan sauce to drizzle over whatever you’re making. And yet
another
bonus is that slicing or pounding meat thin makes it cook faster. Good news all around.
Rosemary-Lemon Minute Steak
and the
Flavor-Pounded Chicken
, where you can’t rely on high fat content for flavor. Yet even without a lot of fat on the meat, cooking with this method results in some tasty pan drippings. That meaty nectar gives you an opportunity to make a light, rich pan sauce to drizzle over whatever you’re making. And yet
another
bonus is that slicing or pounding meat thin makes it cook faster. Good news all around.
Using this approach, I’ll show you a crazy-simple, versatile technique for cooking boneless, skinless chicken breasts. Most chefs don’t bother with these; the consensus is they’re for people who don’t mind chewing on a thick, dry cotton ball. I’m not afraid to admit I like chicken breasts, and it’s because of the flavor pounding technique. If you’re bored out of your skull with dry, tasteless bird, Flavor-Pounded Chicken is a revelation. The breasts are juicy, packed with bright flavor, and take about 4 minutes to cook—a dinner savior on a busy weeknight.
And one critical step that applies to every recipe here, whether it’s red meat, pork, or poultry, lean or fat: Allow the meat to come to room temperature before cooking it. This promotes even and efficient cooking. Just set it on the counter, cover it, and let it sit for 20 to 30 minutes.
CHICKEN
BROTH
MAKES 2½ QUARTS
BROTH
MAKES 2½ QUARTS
Homemade chicken broth is one hell of a powerful elixir. It drastically improves the flavor and nutrition of anything you use it in. It takes several hours to cook, but it’s mostly hands off and requires little more than combining cold water, chicken bones/meat, and aromatic vegetables to produce a huge batch of fresh, nutrient-dense chicken broth. If you’re used to store-bought broth, you’ll be surprised at the enormous difference in flavor. Packaged broths, even the wholesome-sounding organic, free-range stuff, literally pale in comparison to homemade. They’re thin and dull where this broth is rich and full-bodied (not to mention more affordable).
This broth forms the foundation for nearly every soup I make. It lasts about 1 week in the refrigerator and up to a couple of months in the freezer.
▪
▪
For an easy way to develop more flavor in any grain dish, use chicken broth instead of water as the grain’s cooking liquid.
Freeze some of the broth in an ice cube tray and pop a few cubes into a hot pan for sautéing with vegetables.
4 pounds chicken bones (any combination of backs, necks, and feet)
2 pounds chicken wings
2 small onions, peeled and quartered
4 small carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces
4 celery stalks, cut into 1-inch pieces
½ bunch flat-leaf parsley
1 (12-ounce) can whole tomatoes, drained
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
1
In a deep 8-quart pot, combine the bones and wings. Run cold water over the chicken parts to thoroughly rinse them, using your hands to give it some dishwashing action. Drain the water and lightly pack the chicken in the pot. Cover the chicken by 4 inches with cold water and bring it to a boil over medium-high heat, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
In a deep 8-quart pot, combine the bones and wings. Run cold water over the chicken parts to thoroughly rinse them, using your hands to give it some dishwashing action. Drain the water and lightly pack the chicken in the pot. Cover the chicken by 4 inches with cold water and bring it to a boil over medium-high heat, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
2
As soon as the liquid boils, reduce the heat to medium and move the pot so the burner is not centered, but off to one side. (This encourages the broth to circulate over and around the meat.) Simmer, occasionally using a ladle to skim and discard any fat and foamy impurities that settle on the surface, until the broth looks clear, about 1 hour.
As soon as the liquid boils, reduce the heat to medium and move the pot so the burner is not centered, but off to one side. (This encourages the broth to circulate over and around the meat.) Simmer, occasionally using a ladle to skim and discard any fat and foamy impurities that settle on the surface, until the broth looks clear, about 1 hour.
3
When the broth looks clear, add the onions, carrots, celery, parsley, tomatoes, peppercorns, and bay leaves and simmer for another 2 hours. Use a spider skimmer to remove and discard any large pieces of meat. Put a fine-mesh strainer over another large pot and pour the broth through it; discard the solids left in the strainer. Let the broth cool before storing.
When the broth looks clear, add the onions, carrots, celery, parsley, tomatoes, peppercorns, and bay leaves and simmer for another 2 hours. Use a spider skimmer to remove and discard any large pieces of meat. Put a fine-mesh strainer over another large pot and pour the broth through it; discard the solids left in the strainer. Let the broth cool before storing.
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