Authors: Donna Milner
T
HE BUS HUMS
along Highway 97 South. We pass rolling fields edged with orange and yellow, frost-touched trees. The clear autumn sky is blue, crisp, and clean. I have always loved the open sky of the Cariboo and Chilcotin plateaus, where it takes an honest day for the sun to pass from east to west. Such a contrast with Atwood.
When I was growing up I paid little attention to the fact that the mountains dominated the landscape. I didn't know anything else. I didn't notice the absence of sky. Now I have to brace myself for the suffocating claustrophobia that grips me once I am in the shadows of those alpine slopes.
The mountains, the sheer abundance of them, crowding and blocking the sun for a good portion of the day, can be overwhelming. Each time I return I feel hemmed in, smothered. When I lived there I hardly noticed when the sun disappeared prematurely behind the granite outcroppings and forest-covered hills, pulling its blanket of shadows behind. I gave no thought to the fact that to look at the horizon, I had to look up.
The mountains that loomed over our farm were as familiar to me then as family. I knew their shapes, their locations, their size and elevations. I knew their names. Mostly thanks to Boyer.
From as early as I can remember I rode his shoulders whenever he went hiking through the surrounding woods.
âI'm the queen of the mountain!' I hollered from my perch one afternoon. A weak echo tried to reverberate across the slopes.
âWell, princess, maybe,' Boyer laughed.
He stopped to catch his breath on a mountaintop clearing. We sat side by side in the meadow grass and warmed ourselves in the sun as we gazed down at our farmhouse and the meandering patchwork of fields and pastures cut into the narrow valley below.
Boyer pointed out landmarks and taught me how to orient myself by finding Robert's Peak, which loomed over our farm. âOn the other side of that mountain is the United States of America,' he told me with a note of wonder in his voice. âImagine, Natalie, a whole other country just miles away.'
âIs there a line?' I asked.
âLine?'
âLike on the map?'
âNo, it's an imaginary line that divides us.' He smiled.
âAre the people there different?'
âWell, there are certainly a lot more of them. But they're pretty much the same. We're fortunate to have them there,' he added. âIt's kind of like living next door to a big brother.'
âLike you,' I smiled.
âSomething like that,' he said and hugged me.
Boyer showed me how to locate South Valley Road in the shadows of Gold Mountain and Robert's Peak. Anyone turning off the main highway onto that winding dirt road was either lost, or coming to our farm. Or both.
As Boyer pointed out the boundaries of our land he told about how our grandfather had arrived in the area after the first rush of
gold fever. âIt didn't take him long to realize that prospecting wasn't for him,' he said. âSo he decided to make his living from the miners, instead of with them.'
Our grandfather bought two Holstein cows and a bull. Then he began his return to what he knew best, dairy farming. He homesteaded the only usable acreage in the narrow valley south of town. He also laid claim to a good deal of the surrounding hillsides and forests. Four hundred acres of hill and dale, rock and dirt.
âMore hill than dale, and more rock than dirt,' I heard my father joke more than a few times.
Even when I grew too heavy to ride on Boyer's shoulders I tagged along with him whenever he went hiking. Morgan and Carl often joined us. He taught my brothers and me how to use the sun and the evening stars to guide ourselves home. âThere's no need to lose your way in these hills,' Boyer assured us. âIf you ever do, just climb higher until you can look down and see something familiar.'
As Boyer shared his love of the forest he constantly reminded us of the hidden dangers in the mountains that toed into our fields and meadows. Both he and our mother made sure we did not forget.
One summer day, when I was five or six, Morgan and Carl and I went with Mom to pick wild huckleberries that grew in the forest behind our farm.
My mother's blue flowered cotton dress swished against her black rubber boots as she walked in front of me. Mom always wore a dress, even in the bush. My father hated to see her in pants.
âYa look ridiculous,' I heard him exclaim one winter morning when she emerged from the bedroom in a pair of his woollen trousers. âI'm sorry, Nettie,' he said when he saw her crestfallen face.
âBut it's such a shock to see those beautiful legs covered up.' During my childhood I never saw her wear pants again.
Sunlight seeped through the canopy of trees and danced through the branches as we hiked up the mountain that day. The air smelled of dry leaves, mossy bark, and dust. Mom jingled as she moved. Christmas bells, from the horse's halter, hung around her neck. âWe're in bear territory now,' she told us.
âBears!' I shrieked.
âYeah,' Morgan chimed in. âWe're gonna get eaten by bears.'
Mom ignored Morgan and Carl's laughter. âBears don't eat people,' she said to me. âThey eat berries. Still we don't want to surprise them.' She lifted the bells and gave them a shake. âWe've got to give them fair warning.'
She promised the noise would be enough to keep the bears away. I believed her. But then I believed every word she said.
I followed close behind her, my red lard bucket swinging. My brothers and I ate more of the fat blue huckleberries than we put into our buckets. A few small berries rolled around the bottom of my tin pail, making lonely hollow sounds that were no match for my mother's jangling bells.
I tried to swing my hips, to swish my skirt across the top of my calves, the way Mom's did. My feet became tangled. I tripped over my heavy boots and tumbled to the ground. My pail flew out of my hand and the few berries I'd gathered scattered onto the forest floor. My awkward sprawl sent Morgan and Carl into shrills of laughter. âLook at Nat. She's gibbled,' they shrieked.
Neither of my brothers wanted to be there. They wanted to be with Boyer and Dad who were cutting trees for our winter's firewood. âIn such a hurry to be men,' my mother chastised them earlier that morning when they tried to talk their way out of going berry-picking.
They were bored with searching for berries; their laughter lasted
longer than my unceremonious stumble warranted. âWell that should keep any bears away,' Mom said. She helped me up, my spilled berries too scattered to retrieve. âYou two sound like a couple of braying jackasses.'
Hearing the word âass' come out of her mouth only set Morgan and Carl off into another frenzy. They laughed and poked at each other as we entered a clearing in the sweltering afternoon sunshine. Clicking grasshoppers leapt from the dry overgrown alpine grass as we passed through. Wisps of steam rose like smoke from the black, moisture-laden tree stumps scattered across the hillside.
Back in the cool shadows on the other side, the musty odour of dried lichen and crushed pine needles filled the forest air. In the shade of the overhead trees we came upon a dense stand of bushes, their branches heavy with the purple-blue huckleberries.
âNow, try to get some in your buckets,' Mom told us.
The four of us slowly worked our way through the patch. Even I managed to cover the bottom of my pail. The bushes thinned out as we moved further into the trees. I followed Mom as she meandered back along the edge of the clearing.
Suddenly, Morgan and Carl started to holler. I glanced up to see them scrambling over a mound of rubble, an enormous pile of weathered tree stumps and boulders, overgrown with weeds and vines.
My mother stopped picking and called out, âCome down from there.' She beckoned me to follow her to the bottom of the pile where she stood and waited for them to descend.
My brothers groaned, then reluctantly backed down. When they reached the bottom Morgan stood back and looked at the heap of tangled debris. âWhat is it Mom?' he asked.
âIt's a long story,' she said as she ushered us away.
We walked a short distance when Mom stopped and set her pail on the ground. She sat down on a moss-crusted log and stared back at the mountain of rubble as if she could see something we could not. âIt's really your father's story,' she said. She removed the bells from her neck. In the blinking light of the forest she began to speak matter-of-factly, without emotion. I still remember her words.
âIt happened in 1927,' she began. âAfter the milking was done one fall morning, your father, and his older brother, Emile, headed out with their dog to hunt grouse. Your dad was twelve; Emile was fifteen. It wasn't unusual for the boys to hunt alone. Your grandfather, Angus Ward, taught them early how to handle guns. The same way he taught them to drive the truck and farm equipment when they were still just boys. Things were different back then. Necessity and competency were the only licence they needed.'
The background drone of insects accompanied my mother's voice. âGrouse hunting was half sport and half serious business. The boys usually returned home with an abundance of birds hanging at their sides, the tiny wings falling open, limp and useless. Their mother, your grandmother Manny, was always pleased to receive their bounty. She plucked and cleaned the small, thick-chested birds with relish, happy for a change from the chicken or beef that filled the platters on their kitchen table each night.
âBut as the sun rose above the tree tops that morning, their dog, a blue healer, had little success flushing out their prey. He zigzagged haltingly, sniffing, and whining, through the dew-wet undergrowth. The brothers followed him further up the slopes. The sun grew warmer. They still had no birds tied to their belts.
âWhen the boys came to an old clear-cutâthat clearing we just walked throughâthe dog ran ahead. Your father turned for only a moment to look down at the farm.
âBehind him the dog gave a bark of discovery and bolted across the clearing. Your father spun around and saw the startled eyes of a young doe. She stood motionless against the backdrop of tree trunks and branches. Then with a flash of white tail she leapt into the underbrush, flushing a covey of grouse as she disappeared. The birds rose in a whirr of flapping wings. Emile lifted his rifle and fired. A wounded bird hung in the air, and then fought against the descent into the thicket. The blue healer bounded into the bush, with Emile close behind. Your dad took up the chase. He knew his brother, an expert with a shotgun, would not miss if he got a second shot. He followed them into the forest. In the shadows of the trees he spotted their dog as it leaped through the air above a fungus-covered snag. Emile ran ten feet behind, changing his shells on the fly; he thumbed a fresh shell into position and snapped the gun shut as he ran toward the deadfall. In the next blink Emile was gone. Gus thought the flickering light was playing tricks with his eyes. He raced toward the log. He saw the gaping hole at his feet just in time. He threw himself to one side, his fingers clawing at brambles and roots as his feet slid on wet grass.'
Mom took a deep breath. âOh, what sounds for a young boy to carry with him into the rest of his life,' she sighed. She was no longer speaking to us. âThose sounds, the commotion, all melded into a single moment: the muffled thuds of flesh against unyielding rock, the receding scream, the dog's furious barking, the clatter of the falling gun, and finally the gun shot, the thunderous shot ricocheting, echoing, in the depths of the air shaft at your father's feet.
âThen the ringing silence. A silence broken only when the blue healer raised his head to howl to the heavens.'
She told us how, half blind with tears and shock, Dad raced, stumbled, and fell his way down the mountainside. Covered in
blood and dirt he made his way home. Deafened by the pounding in his ears, gulping each breath as if it were his last, he could not hear his own voice as he told his parents the unbearable news.
Mom said it took the rescue party, led by my shell-shocked father, until nightfall to retrieve his brother's twisted, lifeless, body. My grandfather himself rappelled down the shaft to carry his son to the surface.
Manny Ward stood in the clearing, apart from the rescue party, stiffening at any attempts of comfort. Her clutched fists bulged in her apron pockets; her thin mouth an expressionless line on her tearless face. She stared straight ahead as the afternoon sunlight passed over the scene; the moving shadows the only marking of time as she waited for her son's body.
âYour father stood in shock and watched it all as if from underwater,' Mom said, âfrom another world, a world of silence. He remembered seeing mouths open and close, but heard no words.'
âIt took years for him to make his way to the surface,' she added.
âDad did it alone. His parents offered no words of comfort, no lifeline, so deeply were they drowning in their own sorrow.
âFor months after, your grandfather spent every free moment of his time carting boulders and felled trees to throw down that mine shaft. He didn't stop when it was full. He piled more on the top, creating this rock and wood memorial for his first-born son,' my mother mused, then added, âa memorial that looks like a funeral pyre waiting for a match.'
My grandfather continued to search for and fill, or board over, every mine shaft he could find on his land. When he had exhausted his four hundred acres he started on the neighbours' land. Neither my grandfather, nor my father, ever picked up a shotgun again.
I never heard my father speak of his brother, or say anything to
us about mineshafts. Perhaps he felt that his father had taken care of them and there was no longer any danger. Still, our mother warned us that day, âEven your grandfather couldn't be sure he'd found them all.'
It's hard to be certain now how much of the story was actually told by my mother, and how much is my memory filling in the blanks. I only know her words painted a picture so clear it was as if I were watching it play out before me. I saw and heard the tragedy of that long-ago autumn day. But I was only a child then, the sorrow and pain of broken hearts were concepts in fairytales. The sadness lasted as long as the telling. Suffering and grief were not part of that sunshine time of our lives. They were something that happened to others, not to our perfect family.