Amy Butler's In Stitches: More Than 25 Simple and Stylish Sewing Projects (19 page)

d.
The pleats line up with the side finished edge of the deck. Starting on the left side of the magazine pocket, place your ruler vertically over the top part of the pocket and line it up with the left side finished edge of the deck. Mark a guideline for the left side pleat by drawing a vertical line that extends 3″ down from the top finished edge of the pocket. Then, make the pleat by stitching along the guideline, backstitching at each end. Repeat this step to make the pleat on the right side.
(
FIGURE 12D
)

e.
Turn the Bedside Organizer
Right
side out and press.

Step 13. Make the Bedside Organizer for the other end of the deck.

Follow the instructions in steps 2a through 12e (excluding step 8a) to make and attach the second Bedside Organizer to the other end of the deck.

FIGURE 9D, E

FIGURE 10C

FIGURE 12D

WIDE-LEG LOUNGE PANTS

FINISHED SIZES: SMALL: FITS SIZES 6 AND 8 (33
¹
/
₂
″ – 35″ HIP) | MEDIUM: FITS SIZES 10 AND 12 (36″ – 38″ HIP) LARGE: FITS SIZES 14 AND 16 (40 ″ – 42 ″ HIP) | LOUNGE PANTS INSEAM: 32 ″

Need a little silver-screen glamour in your life? These comfortable, easy pants will match your casual style, with a splash of 1940s elegance for good measure. These pants are just the thing for lounging in on Sunday mornings.

FABRICS

• 2
³
/
₄
yards (44″- or 60″-wide) light- to mid-weight cotton fabric

• 2
¹
/
₂
yards trim, in any width, for the hem

•
¹
/
₈
yard fusible interfacing

OTHER SUPPLIES

• Coordinating thread

• Scissors

• Cellophane tape

• Freezer paper (or other paper) (2 pieces, each 20″ wide × 50″ long, for all sizes Lounge Pants)

• Yardstick/ruler

• Pencil

• Straight pins

• Chalk pencil or fabric marker

• Safety pin

• Seam ripper

NOTES

• All seams are
¹
/
₂
″ unless otherwise stated. (The
¹
/
₂
″ seam allowance is included in the pattern pieces and cutting measurements provided.)

• If you choose to make a longer or shorter inseam, make the adjustment when cutting your fabric pieces. Cut the fabric to your desired length and add
³
/
₄
″ for the hem. We suggest trying the garment on before hemming to determine the length needed.

• Preshrink your fabric by washing, drying, and pressing it before starting your project.

Step 1. Make the pattern pieces for the Lounge Pants.

a.
Use the pattern pieces provided in the pocket at the front of this book. Tape a long piece of the freezer paper to the back of the front pattern piece, making sure that the dull side of the freezer paper is facing up. Place the shorter, inside leg edge against one edge of the freezer paper to allow room for adding extra width on the outside edge if making a size medium or large.

b.
Next, place the edge of the yardstick along one side edge of the pattern piece and, using a pencil, extend the side edge by adding 29″ to the length. Extend the other side edge in the same way.

c.
Now, draw the bottom cutting line by connecting the 2 side cutting lines, using a yardstick and pencil.
(
FIGURE 1C FRONT
)

d.
Follow the instructions in steps 1a through 1c to make an extended pattern piece for the back, being sure to match the back pattern piece and the back extension pattern piece at the dotted lines and tape them together to make one complete back pattern piece.
(
FIGURE 1D BACK
)

e.
To make a size medium or large, first extend the original pattern piece by following steps 1a through 1c. Then, using a yardstick and a pencil, add the additional width as noted on the pattern pieces by placing your yardstick along the outer side edge of the drawn pattern piece and measuring out the distance needed for the larger size. Use a pencil and yardstick to draw a new side cutting line parallel to the original pattern piece. Be sure to add the additional width to both the front and the back pattern pieces. (The additional width is added only to the outer side edge of the pattern. Do not add extra width to the shorter inside leg edge.)
(
FIGURE 1E BACK
AND
1E FRONT
)

f.
Using your scissors, cut out the front and back pattern pieces, making sure to follow the newly marked lines if you have made any changes in size.

Step 2. Cut out all pieces from the fabric.

a.
First, fold the fabric in half lengthwise with
Wrong
sides together and the selvage edges
*
aligned. Lay the fabric on a flat surface with the folded edge toward you.

*
See page 171
for an explanation of a selvage edge.

b.
Pin the pattern pieces to the fabric following the cutting layout provided on the pattern pieces. The long arrows (marked “Lengthwise grain line”) on the pattern pieces are to be placed on the lengthwise grain
*
of the fabric, which means that the long lines of the arrow on the pattern piece will be parallel to the fold and the selvage edges of the fabric.
(
FIGURE 2B
)

*
See page 171
for an explanation of lengthwise grain.

c.
Then, using your scissors, cut the fabric according to the outlines on the pattern pieces.

d.
Now, open up the remaining fabric and cut one strip measuring 1
¹
/
₂
″ wide × 60″ long parallel to (but not including) the selvage edge. This strip will be used to make the drawstring for the Lounge Pants.

Step 3. Make the Lounge Pants.

NOTE:
All the seams can be finished by serging them or by trimming the seam allowance to
¹
/
₄
″ and zigzag stitching along the trimmed edge. Press all the seams to the side indicated in the directions.

a.
Place one front piece and one back piece with
Right
sides together matching the inner leg raw edge and pin them in place. Attach the front and back by stitching a
¹
/
₂
″ seam down the inner leg. Press the allowance toward the back.
(
FIGURE 3A
)

b.
Follow the instructions in step 3a to attach the second set of front and back pieces.

c.
Next, open up both sets of front/back pieces, place them
Right
sides together, and match the inner leg seams and the curved raw edges. Pin the crotch seam and stitch it together with a
¹
/
₂
″ seam. To reinforce this seam, stitch over the crotch seam again. To help identify the back, make a small mark at the center back seam using a chalk pencil or fabric marker.
(
FIGURE 3C
)

d.
Now, open up the front/back pieces so that the
Right
sides are together and the side raw edges are matched, and pin in place. Stitch a
¹
/
₂
″ seam along both side edges. Press the side seam allowances toward the back.
(
FIGURE 3D
)

Step 4. Make the buttonholes
*
on the casing for the drawstring.

a.
First, turn the Lounge Pants so that the
Right
side is facing out. Now, place your yardstick
¹
/
₂
″ to the left of the center front seam. Measure down from the top raw edge 3″ and make a mark, using a chalk pencil. Move the ruler
¹
/
₂
″ to the right of the center seam, measure down from the top raw edge 3″, and make a second mark. These 2 marks will be the top edge of the buttonholes.

*
See page 170
for an explanation of how to make a buttonhole if your sewing machine does not have that feature.

b.
Cut a 2″ × 2″ piece of fusible interfacing and place the fusible side (the shiny or bumpy side) of the interfacing onto the
Wrong
side of the fabric, centering it over the buttonhole marks. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to apply the fusible interfacing to the fabric. This interfacing will add stability for the buttonholes.

c.
Make one vertical
¹
/
₂
″ buttonhole on each side of the center front seam, starting the top of the buttonholes at the marks you made in step 4a.
(
FIGURE 4C
)

d.
To cut open the buttonholes start at the bottom bar tack in the middle of the narrow zigzag stitching lines, insert the pointed end of your seam ripper through the fabric, and cut up to the top bar tack. Repeat this step to cut open the other buttonhole.

Step 5: Finish the top edge of the Lounge Pants.

a.
Turn the Lounge Pants so that the
Wrong
side is facing out. Now, on the top raw edge, turn under
¹
/
₄
″ toward the Wrong side of the fabric and press.
(
FIGURE 5A
)

b.
Then, turn this edge under again 1
³
/
₄
″ and press. Pin the folded edge in place and edge stitch
*
close to this folded edge, all the way around the top of the Lounge Pants.
(
FIGURE 5B, C
)