Back to Butter: A Traditional Foods Cookbook - Nourishing Recipes Inspired by Our Ancestors (8 page)

The primary reason behind all the special treatment of yesteryear is, in fact, rooted in science. Although our ancestors may not have used the terms
enzyme inhibitors
and
phytic acid
, these anti-nutrients, found in grains, beans, nuts, and seeds, prevent us from digesting these foods properly or getting the most out of them nutritionally—unless their effects are mitigated by
soaking
(with an acidic medium),
sprouting
, or
souring/fermenting
. Such treatment methods break down those nasty anti-nutrients, thereby making the foods easier to digest and more nourishing.

PHYTIC ACID AND ENZYME INHIBITORS, DEFINED

•
Enzyme inhibitors
are molecules that bind to the healthy digestive and metabolic enzymes in our body, rendering them useless and inhibiting our digestive power.

•
Phytic acid
is a plant’s principal storage of phosphorus—which would be great, if we could digest it. We can’t, though, and even more troublesome, phytic acid renders micronutrients, including zinc, iron, magnesium, and calcium, useless.

If one or more of the treatment methods mentioned above is not followed, the two irritants can cause digestive issues (due to improper digestion/absorption). Over the years, I have known folks who could not tolerate any nuts in their diet, until they began soaking them. Pretty powerful! But be aware that the effectiveness of this technique can be inadequate when dealing with extreme allergies to nuts, so use caution and personal discretion. Likewise, many people who are irritated by grains have no trouble digesting authentic sourdough bread, because the grains/flours have been “predigested,” if you will, by fermentation.

The technique recipes that follow outline just what you need to do to get started, and can be used for just about any nut, seed, or grain. Examples of an acidic medium for soaking, which we refer to in our recipes as an “activator,” are kombucha, whey, and lemon juice. Although all of these techniques take time, it’s mostly hands-off and the end result should make a world of difference in how you feel. I’m guessing traditional cultures didn’t know a thing about anti-nutrients in the technical sense, but instinct led them to these answers—and it is to the benefit of our universal health to keep these practices alive today.

The following soaking and drying instructions work for all nuts and seeds except cashews. Cashews, which actually aren’t raw when they reach us anyway, can get slimy if soaked too long and are best limited to a 6-hour soak time. Nuts such as pecans, almonds, walnuts, and hazelnuts, however, all process well with this technique, as do seeds of just about any kind, except flax and chia seeds, which turn gelatinous when soaked (making them great for baking, but not for straining and dehydrating). Finally, keep in mind that the high oil content of nuts requires freezing for storage, if they are not consumed within a few days.

Inspired by Sally Fallon

4 cups (580 g) raw nuts or seeds

2 tablespoons (30 ml) whey

1 tablespoon (18 g) sea salt, plus more to taste

In a large-size glass bowl, combine the nuts, whey, sea salt, and enough room-temperature water to cover the nuts by 2 inches (5 cm). Stir to dissolve the salt. Cover with a lid or plate and set in a warm place, approximately 75°F (24°C), for 24 hours.

Once the soaking is complete, set your oven or food dehydrator to 150°F (66°C). Rinse the nuts well in a colander (discard the soaking water) and spread in a single layer onto regular sheet pans or dehydrator trays with mesh inserts. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt, to taste (feel free to try a few!).

Dry in the oven or dehydrator for 12 to 24 hours. Most nuts take only 12 to 15 hours, but almonds and hazelnuts almost always take a full 24 and even up to 36 hours. The nuts are ready when they crunch nicely upon biting, with no residual moisture. Always test several nuts to ensure uniform dehydration.

Store nuts in an airtight container in the freezer or refrigerator.

YIELD: 4 CUPS (580 G)

NOT ALL WATER IS CREATED EQUAL

In all of our recipes where water is called for soaking/fermenting, we recommend using filtered or purified water because chemicals and contaminants in tap water (like chlorine) can interfere with the soaking and absorption process.

Store-bought nut butters are typically made from nuts that have not been soaked. Making them at home allows you to create a delicious soaked version, while also controlling the quality of the sea salt and oils that are added for taste and texture.

3 cups (about 1 pound, or 454 g) crunchy almonds (
page 49
)

2 tablespoons (28 g) unrefined coconut oil

Sea salt, to taste

Optional First Step: Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4). On a large-size sheet tray, spread the almonds in a single layer. Bake for 10 minutes, until fragrant and lightly browned. Set aside to cool completely.

If you like your almond butter crunchy, remove
1
/
2
cup (65 g) of almonds, roughly chop, and set aside. Place the remaining almonds into the bowl of a food processor. Turn on the motor and process for 1 minute; the almonds will be grainy.

Add the oil and salt, and restart the motor. After a few minutes, the almond butter will turn into a ball. After a few more minutes, it will separate from the ball and stick to the sides of the bowl. Finally, it will become smooth. The whole process takes about 5 minutes. Once smooth, if making crunchy almond butter, add the chopped almonds back to the bowl and pulse briefly until combined. Scoop into an airtight container and refrigerate. The almond butter will thicken slightly when refrigerated.

YIELD: 3 CUPS (454 G)

THE LOWDOWN ON DEHYDRATORS

My first time working with dehydrators was back in culinary school, while interning at a popular raw foods restaurant, and I’ve loved them ever since.

Dehydrators are small, mobile ovens that dry food at very low temperatures, usually ranging from 90° to 160°F (32° to 71°C). Pure “raw foodists,” who are after the preservation of enzyme content, typically prefer keeping the temperature somewhere below 120°F (49°C), but because I am more concerned with removing phytic acid and enzyme inhibitors—and because I prefer the aesthetic “crunch” provided by a slightly higher dehydration temperature—I stick with 150°F (66°C) for grains, nuts, and seeds.

Dehydrators can also be used for a variety of other foods and are excellent for preserving summer’s bounty (dried apricots, anyone?). Here are some common dehydration temperatures we suggest:

Fruit Leathers: 115°F (46°C)

Sun-Dried Tomatoes: 125°F (52°C)

Dried Fruit: 125°F (52°C)

Sprouted Grains, Nuts, and Seeds: 150°F (66°C)

Meat Jerky: 130° to 170°F (54° to 77°C)

As we’ve said, beans contain properties that actually prevent our bodies from absorbing the minerals in our foods. The good news is that proper preparation, including a long soak and a slow cooking process, neutralizes those destructive properties, restoring beans to their healthy status. If needed, this recipe is easily doubled.

1 cup (250 g) dried black beans, kidney beans, pinto beans, black-eyed peas, chickpeas, or white beans

2 tablespoons (30 ml) activator, such as plain kombucha (
page 209
), whey (
page 40
), or lemon juice

7 cups (1.65 L) water

1 piece (3 inches, or 7.5 cm) of kombu

2 teaspoons sea salt

Put the beans in a glass container with a lid and cover with warm water by 2 inches (5 cm). Stir in the activator, cover, and leave in a warm place 12 to 36 hours. Longer soaking removes additional phytic acid; if soaking longer than 12 hours, however, change the water and activator every 12 hours. After soaking, drain the beans and rinse well in a colander.

In a large-size heavy-bottomed pot, add the beans, the 7 cups fresh water, and the kombu. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, skimming off any foam that may have formed on the surface of the water with a large-size flat spoon. Cover the pot and simmer for 1
1
/
2
to 4 hours; cooking time will depend on the type of bean, size, and age (older beans take longer to cook). When using beans for a salad, stop cooking once tender but before they lose their shape and become mushy.

Add sea salt toward the very end of the cooking process. When cooking is complete, remove the kombu (if small pieces of the kombu remain, don’t worry about them). Store the beans in the refrigerator, in their cooking liquid, to use throughout the week. Drain and rinse as needed.

YIELD: 2 TO 3 CUPS (344 TO 515 G)

RECIPE NOTES

• Even for a single batch, kidney beans and chickpeas benefit from doubling the amount of activator used for soaking because they have a tougher exterior.

• Kombu (
page 217
) is a type of dried seaweed that imparts additional minerals and flavor into the cooking liquid, along with beneficial enzymes, which help break down the sugars in the bean.

Millet and quinoa are two naturally gluten-free grains that are easy to soak and even easier to cook. Millet is one of the least allergenic and most easily digestible grains, with a somewhat nutty flavor and fluffy texture. Ever-popular quinoa is not really a grain at all, but rather a seed. It contains eight essential amino acids, and just 1 cup (185 g) provides 8 grams of protein! Note that there is a minimum of 25 hours of advance prep time.

1 cup (173 g) millet or quinoa

6
3
/
4
cups (1585 ml) water, divided

4 tablespoons (60 ml) activator, such as plain kombucha (
page 209
), whey (
page 40
), or lemon juice, divided

1
/
4
teaspoon sea salt

In a glass container with a lid, combine the millet, 3 cups (705 ml) of the water, and 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of the activator. Cover and set aside for 12 hours.

Pour the millet into a fine-mesh strainer and rinse well. Rinse the glass container. Return the millet to the container with 3 cups (705 ml) more fresh water and the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml) activator. Set aside for another 12 hours. Again, using a fine-mesh strainer, rinse the millet thoroughly.

In a small-size pot with a lid, bring the remaining
3
/
4
cup (175 ml) water and sea salt to a boil. Once boiling, add the millet to the pot and stir once. Wait until the water returns to a boil, then cover and reduce the heat to low to maintain a gentle simmer. Set a timer for 10 minutes and don’t peek!

After 10 minutes, lift the lid and check for liquid. To do so, push the handle of a wooden spoon straight down into the millet and pull along the bottom of the pot. If water appears, return the lid and cook in 2-minute increments until no water appears. Once done, replace the lid, turn off the heat, and allow to rest for 10 minutes, then fluff with a fork and serve (or refrigerate until needed).

YIELD: 3 TO 4 CUPS (555 TO 740 G)

The technique in this recipe may be used for all varieties of brown rice and even the unique red rice used in our Red Rice Salad with Cumin Dressing (
page 109
). Unlike white rice, brown and red rices are either unmilled or only partly milled, leaving the bran and the germ of the rice intact, and valuable vitamins and minerals untouched and available when prepared properly!

1 cup (190 g) brown or red rice

6 cups (1410 ml) water, divided

4 tablespoons (60 ml) activator, such as plain kombucha (
page 209
), whey (
page 40
), or lemon juice, divided

2 cups (470 ml) homemade chicken stock (
page 82
)

1
/
4
teaspoon sea salt