Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual: For Everyone from Beginner to Pro (43 page)

c. 1830
Women put a few drops of belladonna into their eyes to dilate the pupils, creating a dreamy look. Belladonna is a plant extract used since ancient times as a poison.

1846
Pond’s Extract, a commercial cold cream, is introduced.

1867
The department store B. Altman and Company opens a “making up” department to teach women to apply rouge, powder, and eyebrow pencil.

1886
Avon, the door-to-door cosmetics line, is founded by David Hall McConnell, a former door-to-door book salesman.

c. 1900
Guerlain introduces the first lip colors to come in stick form.

1891
Polish-born Helena Rubinstein opens the world’s first modern beauty salon, in Australia. She sells a simple face cream inspired by her mother's beauty cream. The product is an instant hit among Autralian women. In 1902 Helena expands her business to London, followed by Paris in 1906 and New York in 1912.

1908
Actresses are the only people who know much about makeup, as it is used exclusively for the stage. No woman dares to go out in public with more than the lightest dusting of rice powder. Rice powder makes the face appear lighter but also swells up in the pores of the skin, enlarging them. Helena Rubinstein starts to produce a tinted face powder that is more natural looking, does not have harmful side effects, and has a broad appeal.

1909
Rubinstein’s lifelong rival, Elizabeth Arden, opens her Fifth Avenue salon.

1909
The Russian immigrant Max Factor opens his first makeup studio in Hollywood.

1909
Eugène Schueller, a French chemist, opens the French Harmless Hair Dye Company, selling the first safe commercial hair dye product. A year later, he renames his product L’Oréal.

c. 1910
The first pressed compact powders—complete with mirrors and puffs—are introduced.

1910
The Daily Mirror Beauty Book
is published. The makeup hints and recipes for homemade lotions reflect the fact that cosmetics have become publicly accepted for the first time in almost one hundred years. The little booklet includes references to a device that curls lashes, a homemade eyebrow darkener, and astringent lotion, and it suggests using a pencil line to elongate the eyes.

1910
Tattoos are extremely popular in Britain. George Burchett, a famous tattooist, practices his art on men and women alike. His card indicates that he can tint and shade complexions and remove moles, blemishes, and other marks.

1914
After seeing his sister Maybel apply petroleum jelly to her lashes, T. L. Williams formulates the first mascara. He forms a company, named Maybelline after his sister, to manufacture the new product.

c. 1920
Coco Chanel makes tans chic, calling a suntan an important “fashion accessory.”

1920s
The flapper Clara Bow is everyone’s favorite “it” girl. Her look includes heavy eyeliner and ultrathin eyebrows.

The opening of chain stores, in which products and prices can be examined by all, make inexpensive cosmetics available to everyone.

1922
Elizabeth Arden opens a salon on Bond Street in London.

1930
When she finds that her new cream can heal and improve the skin in a matter of hours, Elizabeth Arden names the product Eight Hour Cream. It remains a best seller to this day.

1932
Revlon launches its first nail enamel.

1939–1945
World War II restricts the manufacture of cosmetics. Petroleum and alcohol, two principal ingredients used in makeup, are needed for war supplies.

1940s
Joan Crawford’s heavily penciled-in, arched eyebrows become the trademark look for the 1940s career woman.

1943
Estée Lauder launches her company with a line of six products.

1952
Revlon’s Fire and Ice, an all-out sexy red lipstick color, is launched and becomes an instant success.

1960
The Color Additive Amendment requires that coloring ingredients in cosmetics be tested for safety and approved by the FDA.

1967
Estée Lauder launches a new line called Clinique, which emphasizes scientific skincare and cosmetics.

1967
The supermodel Twiggy popularizes a dramatic eye look; she draws lashes around the eye with a pencil and applies numerous false lashes, creating a doe-eyed effect.

1970s
Natural makeup is all the rage.

Models to know:
Veruschka, Marissa Berenson, Lauren Hutton, Margaux and Mariel Hemingway, Cheryl Tiegs, Christie Brinkley, Beverly Johnson.

Beauty icons:
Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Bo Derek, Farrah Fawcett, whose poster was the top-selling poster in history.

1972
Ilana Harkavi, a former professional dancer, launches Il Makiage. The line is positioned as “the makeup artist’s makeup.”

1974
Lauren Hutton becomes the first model to sign an exclusive cosmetics contract. Revlon signs her for $100,000.

1975
Trish McEvoy launches a line of makeup brushes to fill the demand for high-quality makeup tools.

1977
Calvin Klein launches a line of cosmetics, which relaunches in 2005.

1980s
Makeup is strong and exaggerated. Color trends are bold—lots of blues and fuchsias. Avon and Mary Kay create palettes to take the guesswork out of choosing a color scheme.

Models to know:
Rosemary McGrath, Pat Cleveland, Esme, Lisa Taylor, Jerry Hall.

Beauty icons:
Madonna, Grace Jones, Jane Fonda, Pat Benatar.

1984
Canadians Frank Toskan, a makeup artist and photographer, and Frank Angelo, a hair salon owner, launch Make-up Art Cosmetics, or MAC. Their line, which is originally designed for use in fashion photography, wins a wide following with its socially conscious motto: “All ages, all races, all sexes.”

Make Up For Ever is launched by Dany Sanz and Jacques Waneph to meet the unique needs of the stage and fashion industries.

1985
Paulina Porizkova signs on as the face of Estée Lauder for six million dollars.

1990
Hollywood makeup artist Carol Shaw launches LORAC, a line featuring oil and fragrance-free foundations.

1988
Ultima II relaunches the Naked Collection.

1990s
Makeup is all about looking natural.

Models to know:
Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Tatjana Patitz.

Beauty icons:
Jennifer Aniston, Jennifer Lopez.

1991
New York makeup artist Bobbi Brown launches Bobbi Brown
essentials
with ten brown-based lipsticks at Bergdorf Goodman.

1994
Kate Moss appears on Calvin Klein Obsession perfume ads and billboards

Jeanine Lobell launches Stila cosmetics.

Fashion model Iman launches IMAN, a line of cosmetics for women of color.

François Nars launches NARS with twelve lipsticks at Barneys New York. In 1996 he shoots his first advertising campaign for his brand, and continues to do so today.

1995
Frustrated by the lack of bold, vibrant colors, Vincent Longo launches his own line.

1996
Crème de la Mer, a potent cream developed by aerospace physicist Max Huber, is relaunched.

Laura Mercier launches her line of cosmetics.

1999
Sonia Kashuk launches the Sonia Kashuk Professional Makeup collection for Target. This marks the first partnership between a high-profile makeup artist and mass-market retailer.

2000s–Present
Fake tans, sun beds, and tanning products are all the rage, mineral-based makeup enters the marketplace, and makeup brands explode.

WHO’S WHO in MAKEUP

These are the pioneers
who helped shape the beauty industry
and also greatly influenced me as an artist.

Helena Rubinstein
(1870–1965)
Born in Poland, she was the eldest of eight daughters. After immigrating to Australia, she opened the world’s first modern beauty salon. She later relocated to the United States, opened a salon in New York City, and became a lifelong rival of Elizabeth Arden. In 1962, Rubinstein’s salon was the first to introduce the concept of a “day of beauty.” It consisted of an exercise class, massage, lunch, facial, shampoo, hairstyling, manicure, pedicure, and makeup session and cost $35.

Max Factor
(1877–1938)
Born in Poland as Max Faktor, his name morphed into Factor in 1904, when he went through Ellis Island on his way to becoming an American. In Los Angeles, he began selling his lotions and makeup, and soon he had developed a new type of makeup formulated specifically for the movies. It was called “flexible greasepaint” because, unlike standard film makeup, it didn’t crack. In 1920, Factor introduced his cosmetics to the public, giving the average woman a chance to buy a little bit of Hollywood glamour at her local drugstore.

Coco Chanel
(1883–1971)
Although primarily remembered as a fashion designer, Chanel also created some of the world’s most memorable perfumes. In 1922, she introduced Chanel No. 5, which to this day is a worldwide best seller.

Elizabeth Arden
(1884–1966)
Born in Ontario, Canada, as Florence Nightingale Graham, she moved to New York in 1908, where she worked as a bookkeeper at E. R. Squibb Pharmaceuticals Company. Whenever possible, Graham spent time in the company’s lab, learning the skills she would later use to create her own skincare lotions. She jumped at an opportunity to go to work for a “beauty culturist” doing skin treatments. There she met Elizabeth Hubbard and, in 1909, the two opened their own Fifth Avenue salon. When the partnership ended, Graham retained her partner’s first name, Elizabeth, and chose the last name Arden, from the Tennyson poem “Enoch Arden.” Thus, Elizabeth Arden was born. She quickly expanded her repertoire from giving skincare treatments to creating makeup colors. She worked tirelessly for her self-made company into her eighties.

Charles Revson
(1906–1975)
In 1932, Revson went into business with his brother and a chemist named Charles Lachman. They founded a company called Revlon and launched it with the introduction of a nail polish. Revlon became known for nail polishes in a wide variety of colors. Eventually, they marketed matching lipsticks, including the legendary Fire and Ice shade of bold red.

Estée Lauder
(1908–2004)
As an enterprising young woman, Lauder began selling the skin creams created by her uncle, a chemist. In 1948, she convinced the managers at Saks Fifth Avenue to give her counter space to sell her line. She is credited with pioneering the concept of “gift with purchase,” giving away free samples to her customers. In 1953, she introduced her first fragrance, Youth Dew, a bath oil meant to be lavishly splashed over the entire body. By 1984, annual sales of that product had reached $150 million.

Mary Kay Ash
(1918–2001)
Born in Hot Wells, Texas, Mary Kay Ash worked in direct sales until 1963, when she retired to write a book to assist women in business. The book turned into a business plan and by September 1963, with only five thousand dollars, she founded Mary Kay Cosmetics with her son, Richard Rogers. They developed a line of skincare products and color cosmetics, initially sold out of a storefront in Dallas, Texas. With the Golden Rule as the founding principle of her company, she insisted that her employees keep their lives in balance. She authored a total of three books, all of which became best sellers. Her book on people management, has been included as a text at the Harvard Business School. At the time of Ash’s death, Mary Kay Cosmetics had over 800,000 representatives in 37 countries, with total annual sales of more than $2 billion at retail.

Shu Uemura
(1928–2007)
The founder of shu uemura cosmetics, he was the first to merge makeup and art through makeup performances on stage and his seasonal Mode Makeup collections. His career began in Hollywood in 1955 and it took off when he was called to substitute for Shirley MacLaine’s makeup artist. His first product, Unmask Cleansing Oil, came out in 1960. His first makeup school opened in Tokyo shortly thereafter. His first open workshop/concept cosmetics boutique opened in 1983. The Tokyo Lash Bar, with a huge variety of false-lash concepts, was launched in 2007.

Way Bandy
(1941–1986)
Bandy was one of the best-known freelance makeup artists of the 70s and 80s. He created Calvin Klein’s first cosmetics collection, which featured burgundy packaging. His best-selling books are a great source of information and inspiration to makeup artists today.