Chop Suey : A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States (43 page)

Oakie, Jack,
196

“Ode to
Bing
” (Shu),
88
–89

Ogden Standard,
183

oils:

   in Chinese cuisine,
59
,
92

   from seeds,
85

Olympics, Beijing Summer,
248
–50

onions,
35
,
71
,
79
,
99

Oomologma (Mount Everest),
68

opium:

   in America,
128
,
150
,
166
,
175
,
184
,
185

   in China,
36
,
53
,
60

Opium War,
36
–37,
39
,
40
,
53

oranges,
82
,
101
,
119

Oriental Restaurant,
193

Orient Luau (restaurant),
216

Overland Monthly,
131

oxen,
80

oyster sauce,
100

Pacific islands,
27

Panda Express (franchise),
247

Parker, Mrs. Peter,
44

Parker, Peter:

   as China expert,
41
,
43
,
46
,
47

   as missionary to China,
32
,
40
,
60

Paunkeiqua,
29
–30

peaches,
71
,
82

Pearl River (Zhu River),
5
,
6
,
69
–70,
100

Pearl River Delta:

   agriculture in,
100
–102,
122

   cuisine of,
100
–102,
150
,
154
–55,
161
,
168
,
206

   cultural history of,
72

   fishing tradition in,
119

   geography of,
69
–70,
100
–102

   immigrants from,
102
,
112
–13,
117
,
119
–20,
154
–55,
159
–60,
206

   1700s landscape,
5
,
6

Pearl’s Chinese Restaurant,
215

pears,
82

peddlers.
See
vendors

Pekin (restaurant),
189

Peking.
See
Beijing

Peking duck,
99
,
220
,
229
,
230
,
240
,
248
,
250

Peking Man,
71

Peking Restaurant,
220
,
222
,
224

Peng Chang-kuei,
242
–43

Peng’s,
243

People’s Republic of China,
58
,
68
,
225
,
226
,
234
–35

   
See also
China

pepper,
30

   Sichuan,
83
,
85

Persia,
83

persimmons,
63
,
71
,
82

Pfaff’s saloon,
157

P.F. Chang’s China Bistro,
247
,
249

Philadelphia,
23
,
50
,
169
,
170
,
248

Philadelphia Enquirer,
178

pickles,
86
,
91
,
137

pidgin Chinese,
9
–10

Pierce, Idaho,
137

pigs:

   domestication of,
72
,
81

   on sailing vessels,
2

   
See also
pork

plums,
82

plum sauce,
82
,
147

Polo diplomatic trips,
227
,
230
,
231
,
232

Polo, Marco,
58
,
91

Polyglot House (restaurant),
139

pomegranates,
83

pomelos,
82

pork:

   in Chinese cuisine,
67
,
74
,
80
,
81
,
93
,
99
,
100
,
134

   in kosher practice,
198
,
204
–5

   in western culinary tradition,
2

pork dishes:

   barbecued,
216

   moo shu pork,
220
,
221

   roofs of hogs’ mouths,
48

   
See also
chop suey

Port Arthur (restaurant),
146
,
180
,
181

Portugal,
5
,
21
,
83

potatoes:

   sweet,
83

   in western cuisine,
2
,
44
,
134

poultry.
See
chickens; ducks; geese

Po Yi,
72

prawns,
67
,
239

prejudice.
See
racism

Prima, Louis,
197

Prohibition,
189
,
207

Puck, Wolfgang,
248

pupu platters,
215

Qianlong Emperor,
17

Qin Dynasty,
57
,
78

Qing Dynasty:

   culinary history of,
77
,
93
,
95
,
98
,
99
,
227

   decline of,
53

   hairstyle of,
43

   Manchu rulers of,
17
–18,
37
,
43
,
100

   xenophobia of,
19

Qiying:

   banquet with Americans,
44
,
46
–49

   culinary skill of,
48

   as imperial emissary,
37
,
41
–44,
49

   portrait of,
56

racism toward Chinese:

   in American West,
113
–17,
126
,
127
,
139
–43,
174
–75

   in arts and entertainment,
139
–40,
196
–97

   and Chinese Exclusion Act,
142
,
161
,
205
,
206
,
216
–17

   in newspapers,
140
,
176

   and “white slavery” stereotypes,
183
–84,
195

radishes,
79
,
122

railroad construction,
137
–38,
171

Ranhofer, Charles,
156

Rather, Dan,
239

Ratner’s dairy restaurant,
203
,
204

rats:

   in Chinese cuisine,
24
,
61

   as stereotyped Chinese food,
58
–59,
114
,
124
,
129
,
151
–53,
166
,
172

Reasoner, Harry,
238

recipes for Chinese food:

   distributed by La Choy,
193
–94

   in Jewish cookbook,
203

   newspaper and magazine,
164
,
165
,
185

   
See also
cookbooks

“Recipes from the Sui Gardens” (Yuan),
66
–67

red beans (azuki),
80

Red Flag,
228

regional cuisines of China:

   cookbooks describing,
218

   eastern,
67
,
99

   northern,
99
,
221

   
southern,
99
–102

   western,
99

Reinhart, Herman Francis,
135

restaurants, Chinese.
See
Chinese restaurants in America

restaurants in China:

   American franchises,
248
–49,
250

   history of,
34
–35,
94
–96,
94
–97,
98
,
100
–101,
101

Ricci, Matteo,
20
–21

rice,
30
,
33

   in Chinese cuisine,
23
,
57
,
78
–79,
92
,
99
,
100

   cultivation of,
6
,
71
,
72
,
76
,
78
–79,
100
,
101

   early cooking methods,
73
,
76
,
84

   in
fan-cai
dichotomy,
79
,
94
,
98
,
101
,
134
–35

   noodles from,
91

   sprouts,
164

   
See also
rice wine

rice wine:

   and drunken prawns,
67

   in fermentation process,
86

   invention of,
91

   
mao-tai,
235
,
239

   
samchou,
15
,
48

Richardson, Albert,
103
,
106

Roberts, Edmund,
32

Robinson, Edward G.,
195

Rock Springs massacre,
142
–43

Rogers, Richard,
197

rumaki,
216

Sacramento,
134
,
142

samchou
(rice wine),
15
,
48

Sam Yap (Three Districts) region,
100
,
101

Sam Yap Company,
104

Sandwich (Hawaiian) Islands,
27
,
41
,
109
,
206
–7

San Francisco,
108
,
123
,
131

   immigrants to,
107
–10,
112
–13,
134
,
243
–44

   1906 earthquake,
133
,
174
–75

   
See also
San Francisco Chinatown; San Francisco restaurants

San Francisco Call,
175

San Francisco Chinatown:

   as distributor of Chinese products,
208

   Dupont Street (Grant Avenue),
103
,
107
,
108
,
110
,
123
,
208

   tourists to,
128
–31,
175
,
208

   trade relationships with China,
118
–19,
120
,
134

   
See also
San Francisco restaurants

San Francisco restaurants:

   advertisements for,
131
,
190

   anecdotes of,
103
–7,
110
,
111
–12,
123
–25,
126
,
127
,
129
–30,
132
,
173

   banquet fare in,
208
–9

   nightclubs in,
189

   revitalization of,
220
–21

San Francisco Whig,
123
–24

San Gabriel Valley,
244
,
251

sauces:

   in Chinese cuisine,
86
–87,
99
,
100

   
See also specific sauces

savoriness, in Chinese cuisine,
86
–87

scallions,
79
,
85
,
98
,
99
,
100

scorpions,
249

scurvy,
3

sea biscuit,
2
,
3

sea cucumbers:

   as Chinese delicacy,
27
,
48
,
50
–51,
58
,
98

   flavor of,
27
,
28
,
50
–51

   and Nixon visit to China,
237

   as trade good,
27
–28,
93
–94

seafood:

   in Chinese cuisine,
72
,
82
,
84
,
99
,
100
,
120

   coastal California,
119
–20

   fermentation of,
86

   in kosher practice,
198

   
See also
crabs; fish; shrimp

seasoning, in Chinese cuisine,
85
–87

   
See also
sauces; spices

seaweed,
80

seed oils,
85

Sentinel Jewish Cook Book,
203

sesame oil,
85

shallots,
85

Shandong,
72
,
99

Shangdi,
17

Shang Dynasty,
73
–75,
75
,
85
,
86

Shanghai (city),
53
,
62
,
79
,
99
,
116
,
231
–32

Shanghai Chop Suey Café,
174

Shanghai cuisine:

   in American restaurants,
221
,
223
,
244

   origins of,
99

Shanghai Low (nightclub),
189

“Shanghai mind,”
54
–55

Shanhaijing
(Guideways through Mountains and Seas),
18
,
21

sharks’ fins:

   as Chinese delicacy,
50
–51,
58
,
61
,
93
–94,
239

   diners’ anecdotes,
105
,
126

   recipe,
164

Shaw, Samuel,
4

   on Chinese culture and cuisine,
4
,
7
–8,
13
–14

   etiquette concerns of,
10
–13

   as pioneer of Chinese-American trade,
3
–4,
5
,
6
,
10
,
15
,
16