Chop Suey : A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States (42 page)

Jefferson, Thomas,
23
,
67

jellyfish,
82

Jesuits,
20
,
23

Jewish immigrants,
198
–205

Jiahu village site,
72

jiaozi
(dumplings),
89
,
90

Johnson, Margaret,
196

Johnson, Samuel,
11

jujubes,
82

Jurchen tribesmen,
17
–18,
79

Kaemmerer, Charles,
151
–52

Kaifeng,
94
–95

Kan, Johnny,
220

Kansas City,
172

Kansas City Star,
172

Kan’s Restaurant,
220

kashrut
laws,
198
–99,
204
–5

Katz’s Delicatessen,
203

Kearney, Denis,
141
–42,
152

Keh, David,
224
,
241

Kelly, William,
111

Ken Hom’s East Meets West Cuisine
(Hom),
248

Kentucky Fried Chicken,
249

Key Chong,
123
,
124

King Hong Lau (restaurant),
209

King Honk Low (restaurant),
188

Kissinger, Henry,
226
–27,
228
–31,
232
,
237
,
243

Kon-Tiki Club,
216

Korea,
17
,
225

kosher laws,
198
–99,
204
–5

kreplach,
210

kumquats,
82
,
119

Kun Iam Temple (Wang Xia Temple),
42
,
47

Kwoh, Emily,
221

La Choy,
192
–94,
240

Lajia,
88

lamb,
80
–81,
85
,
99
,
224

   
See also
mutton; sheep

languages of China:

   teaching to barbarians,
29

   used for trade,
9
–10

   
See also
Cantonese language; Mandarin language

Laos,
17

Laozi,
75
–76

lard.
See
fats

“La Vie de Bohème” (Murger),
156

Ledyard, John,
25
,
27

Lee Kan,
124

leeks,
71
,
79
,
85

Lee, Virginia,
222

legumes,
91

   
See also
beans; soybeans

Lem Sen,
176

Lewis, Sinclair,
187
,
192

Libby, McNeil & Libby,
192

Li Hongzhang,
161
–65,
162
,
240

Li Hung Chang,
164
,
177

Liji,
18
–19

Ling, Hawk,
147

Ling, Leon,
180
–83

Lin Yutang,
199

Liptzin, Sam,
204

liquors:

   Chinese rice,
159
,
235
,
239

   consumed by western traders,
2
,
46

   
See also
alcohol; rice wine; wines

Li Shu-Fan,
161

lizards, in Chinese cuisine,
81
,
249

Lloyd, Harold,
195

lobscouse,
3

Long Acre (Times) Square,
167
,
168

longans,
82
,
101

Loo, C.M.,
220

loquats,
82

Lord, Bette Bao,
227

“Lord Chesterfield’s Advice to his Son, on Men and Manners,”
11

Lord, Winston,
226
–27,
228
,
232

Los Angeles,
140
,
173
–74

lotus,
80
,
154

Lum Fong’s (restaurant),
210

Lum Pong Chop Suey Place (nightclub),
189

Lu Yu,
92

lychees,
82
–83,
101

Macao,
101

Macau, China:

   Cushing and Qiying in,
38
,
41
,
42
,
43

   Europeans in,
21
,
26

   geography,
5
,
69
–70,
100

   missionaries in,
31

Madeira wine,
2
,
5
,
12

Magnuson Act of 1943,
216
–17

Maine
(battleship),
165

Main Street
(Lewis),
187
–88

maize,
83

mallow,
71
–72

Manchu, Fu,
205

Manchuria,
68

Manchus:

   cuisine of,
46
,
47
–49,
93
,
99

   as rulers of Qing Dynasty,
17
–18,
37
,
43
,
100
,
166

   tribal homeland,
68
,
99

Manchu Wok,
247

Mandarin (restaurant),
221

Mandarin House (restaurant),
221
,
222

Mandarin language,
17
,
29
,
43
,
160

mandarin oranges,
82
,
119

Mandate of Heaven,
16
–17

Manifest Destiny,
40
–41,
115
,
165

Mannequin
(movie),
204

manners.
See
etiquette

mantou
(steamed bread),
89
,
95

“A Man Will Do Anything to Make a Living” (Liptzin),
204

mao-tai
(liquor),
235
,
239

Mao Zedong,
225
,
226
,
227
,
232
,
237
,
239

marinades,
86

Marjorie Morningstar
(Wouk),
200
–203

The Market for Souls
(Goodnow),
184

markets.
See
vendors

Marsh, Reginald,
197

McAllister, Ward,
155
–56

M’Cardell, Roy L.,
168

McDonald’s,
239
–40,
248
–49,
250

meat:

   in Chinese cuisine,
14
,
23
–24,
48
,
80
–81,
83
–85,
86
,
99
,
100

   early cooking methods,
83
,
84
–85,
99
,
100

   fermentation of,
86

   and “high” dishes,
14

   in kosher practice,
198

   in western European cuisine,
2
,
3
,
44
,
45

   
See also specific meats

melons,
80
,
122

Mencius,
93

mian
(noodles),
90
–91

   
See also
noodles

mice, in Chinese cuisine,
58
–59

“Middle Kingdom,”
16
–19,
29
,
58

The Middle Kingdom
(Williams),
56
–59

millet:

   in Chinese cuisine,
71
,
74
,
76
,
78
,
99

   domestication of,
71

   early cooking methods,
73
,
76
,
84

   noodles from,
88

Ming Dynasty,
17
–18,
20
,
98

mining camps:

   Chinese culinary traditions maintained in,
119
,
120
,
134
–35,
136
–37

   Chinese laborers in,
108
–9,
112
–13,
135

   racism in,
113
–14

   western diet in,
135

Minneapolis,
172

missionaries in China:

   banquets attended by,
33
–34,
63

   and diplomatic negotiations,
39
,
40
,
52

   first American,
31
–35,
53
,
55
,
59
–63,
116
,
117

   wives of,
61
,
62

   writings of,
33
–35,
55
–59,
60
–63

missionaries in United States,
115
,
207

mollusks,
82

Mongolia,
17
,
68

Mongolian barbecue,
221

Mongol invasion,
37

Mong Sing Wah’s (restaurant),
157
–59

Monterey Park,
244

Monzon, Zosimo,
234

moo goo gai pan,
210

moo shu pork,
220
,
221

Morse, Edward S.,
170

Mott Street.
See
New York City Chinatown

Moy Afong,
149

Moy Auk’s restaurant,
169

mung beans,
91

Murger, Henri,
156

mushrooms,
80
,
86
,
99
,
192

muskmelon,
80

mustard,
79

mustard sauce,
147

mutton,
44
,
62
,
80
–81,
99

   
See also
lamb; sheep

Nanjing,
65
,
217

Nanking, Treaty of,
37
,
39

New, Ilhan,
192

New Jersey,
216

New Joy Young (restaurant),
211
–12,
212
,
213

Newman, Ed,
238

New Year, Chinese,
77

New York
(magazine),
223

New York City:

   Bohemians in,
156
–57,
186

   Broadway,
157
,
189
,
190
,
221
,
224
,
244

   elites of,
155
–56

   immigrants to,
150
–51,
198
,
199

   Li Hongzhang’s visit to,
161
–65,
240

   
See also
New York City Chinatown; New York City restaurants

New York City Chinatown:

   anecdotes of,
149
–50,
151
–53

   as distributor Chinese products,
208

   and Elsie Sigel case,
180
–84

   first Chinese newspaper in,
152
,
153

   founding of,
148
–51

   immigrants to,
150
–51,
243
–44

   Kaemmerer incident in,
151
–53

   Mott Street,
145
,
146
,
148
,
150
,
152
,
157
,
159
,
162
,
180
,
182
,
208
,
209

   as tourist attraction,
164
,
166

New York City restaurants:

   anecdotes of,
144
–48,
157
–59,
166
,
168

   banquet restaurants in,
208
–10

   images of,
146
,
167
,
242
,
245

   menus of,
193
,
209
–10,
209

   outside of Chinatown,
166
–67

New York Journal,
163
,
164

New York Times:

   entertainment reviews,
196

   food critics,
221
–23

   food stories,
215
,
219
,
222
–23,
241

   news stories,
149
,
150
,
151
,
176
–77,
215
,
238
–39

New York Times Guide to Dining Out in New York
(1969),
223

New York Tribune,
110
,
117
,
137

nightclubs, in Chinese restaurants,
188
–91,
207

99 Ranch Market chain,
250

Ningpo,
53

Nixon, Patricia,
224
,
235
,
236
,
236
,
238

Nixon, Richard M.:

   diplomatic goals of,
225
–26

   etiquette concerns of,
234
–36

   favorite foods of,
233
–34

   welcoming banquet for,
224
–25,
225
,
237
–39

Nolton, Jessie Louise,
185

no-ma-das,
159

noodles:

   in Chinese cuisine,
76
,
88
,
90
–91,
95
,
98
,
99

   chop suey,
147

   chow mein,
192
,
194

   evolution of,
88
,
90
–91

   oldest found,
88

Nordhoff, Charles,
137

North China:

   climate,
70

   earliest crops,
71
–72,
76

   geography,
69

   military campaigns,
79

North China Plain,
69
,
70
,
99

Northern regional cuisine of China,
99
,
221

nuts, in Chinese cuisine,
71
,
83