6. Gabrielle,
c.
1909. Tastes were changing; her angular “modern” beauty had become desirable.
7. The famed courtesan, Emilienne d'Alençon, Etienne Balsan's lover when Gabrielle appeared on the scene.
8. Royallieu, where Gabrielle lived with Etienne as his mistress.
9. Arthur “Boy” Capel,
c.
1910, who was to transform Gabrielle's life.
10. Arthur Capel and Gabrielle. Jodhpurs and sitting astride were unconventional for a horsewoman in 1910.
11. Arthur Capel was a noted horseman and excelled at polo.
12. Gabrielle in her own hats, seen in
Comoedia Illustré
, 1910.
13. The actress Gabrielle Dorziat 1910, in “Marie-Louise” hats, almost indistinguishable from Gabrielle's own designs.
14. Gabrielle Dorziat in a Chanel hat for the play
Bel Ami
, 1912.
15. Gabrielle Dorziat in another Chanel hat, 1912.
16. Outside Gabrielle's boutique with Adrienne (
left
) in Deauville, 1913. Note the awning reading “Gabrielle Chanel.”
17. By 1913 Gabrielle was becoming known, and Sem caricatured her with her immensely eligible lover Arthur Capel.
18. Gabrielle at her Deauville shop doorway. Previously unrecognized, on her right is Capel; furthest right is Balsan, still a friend. (There are only a handful of known photos of Gabrielle and Capel together.)