Coco Chanel (69 page)
Authors: Lisa Chaney
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ARCHIVESAdorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity
, London: Virago Press, 1985.
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Archives Fédérales Suisses.
Capel, Arthur, correspondence, courtesy of Christopher Osborn.
Capel, Diana, correspondence to Duff Cooper, Churchill Archives Centre, Churchill College, Cambridge.
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Churchill Papers, Churchill Archives Centre, Churchill College, Cambridge.
Dalà correspondence, courtesy Fundació Gala-Salvador DalÃ, Figueres, Spain.
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Municipal Archives, Garches, France (Mairie de Garches, Service des ArchivesâDocumentation).
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Pavlovich, Dmitri, diaries, translated by William Lee, courtesy of Prince Chavchavadze.
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ILLUSTRATION CREDITS
1. View from Ponteils; author's photo.
2. The Chanel inn, Ponteils; author's photo.
3. Aubazine; author's photo.
4. Gabrielle and Adrienne Chanel c. 1904. Courtesy
LIFE
©. All rights reserved.
LIFE
©. All rights reserved.
5. Etienne Balsan c. 1903. Courtesy of Antoine Balsan and Philippe Gontier.
6. Gabrielle Chanel c. 1910. Apic/Hulton Archive/Getty Images.
7. Emilienne d'Alençon, 1875. Apic/Hulton Archive/Getty Images.
8. Royallieu. All rights reserved.
9. Arthur Capel c. 1910. Courtesy of Christopher Osborn.
10. Arthur Capel and Gabrielle Chanel on horseback c. 1910. Courtesy
LIFE ©
. All rights reserved.
LIFE ©
. All rights reserved.
11. Arthur Capel on horseback c. 1910. Courtesy of Christopher Osborn.
12. Gabrielle in her own hat designs;
Comoedia Illustré
, 1910. All rights reserved.
Comoedia Illustré
, 1910. All rights reserved.
13. Gabrielle Dorziat in “Marie-Louise” hats;
Comoedia Illustré
, 1910. All rights reserved.
Comoedia Illustré
, 1910. All rights reserved.
14. Gabrielle Dorziat in a Chanel hat, 1912. All rights reserved.
15. Gabrielle Dorziat in a Chanel hat;
Journal des Modes
, 1912. All rights reserved.
Journal des Modes
, 1912. All rights reserved.
16. Adrienne and Gabrielle Chanel in front of her Deauville shop. Courtesy
LIFE
©. All rights reserved.
LIFE
©. All rights reserved.
17.
Tangoville sur mer
, caricature of Coco Chanel and Arthur Capel by Sem; Bibliothèque des Arts Decoratifs, Paris/Archives Charmet/Bridgeman Art Library.
Tangoville sur mer
, caricature of Coco Chanel and Arthur Capel by Sem; Bibliothèque des Arts Decoratifs, Paris/Archives Charmet/Bridgeman Art Library.
18. Gabrielle and friends outside Deauville shop c. 1914. Courtesy Ville de Deauville ©. All rights reserved.
19. Coco Chanel playing golf c. 1913; Apic/Hulton Archive/Getty Images.
20. Coco Chanel and Arthur Capel on the beach at St-Jean-de-Luz, 1915; Apic/Hulton Archive/Getty Images.
21. Pablo and Olga Picasso, 1917; Popperfoto/Getty Images.
22. Diana Capel by John Sargent; Private Collection.
23. The Capel Polo Trophy. Courtesy Polo de Paris; photo Adelia Sabatini.
24. Sergei Diaghilev and Igor Stravinsky; © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
25. Igor Stravinsky, José Maria Sert, Gabrielle Chanel and Misia Sert, 1920; Igor Stravinsky Collection; © Paul Sacher Foundation, Zurich.
26. Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich. From
Chanel: A Woman of Her Own
, Axel Madsen. All rights reserved.
Chanel: A Woman of Her Own
, Axel Madsen. All rights reserved.
27. Gabrielle and her dog at the Faubourg St-Honoré; Henri de Beaumont; All rights reserved.
28. Gabrielle Chanel and Dmitri Pavlovich c. 1921; All rights reserved.
29. Chanel N
°
5 by Sem, Musee Carnavalet/Roger Viollet/Getty Images.
°
5 by Sem, Musee Carnavalet/Roger Viollet/Getty Images.
30. Dancers from
Le Train bleu
, 1924; © Hulton Deutsch Collection, CORBIS.
Le Train bleu
, 1924; © Hulton Deutsch Collection, CORBIS.
31. Dancers from
Le Train bleu
, 1924; © Hulton Deutsch Collection, CORBIS.
Le Train bleu
, 1924; © Hulton Deutsch Collection, CORBIS.
32. Lubov Tchernicheva in
Apollon musagète
. Courtesy
Dancing Times
Archive
.
Apollon musagète
. Courtesy
Dancing Times
Archive
.
33. Pierre Reverdy; Roger Viollet/Topfoto.
34. Paul Morand c. 1910; Martinie Roger Viollet/Getty Images.
35. Duke of Westminster;
Sunday Telegraph
, all rights reserved.
Sunday Telegraph
, all rights reserved.
36. Eaton Hall; Hulton Archive/Getty Images.
37. Randolph and Winston Churchill with Coco Chanel; Hulton Archive/ Getty Images.
38. Marion Morehouse in dress by Chanel c. 1926; © Condé Nast Archive/ CORBIS.
39. Coco Chanel at Biarritz, 1928; FPG/Hulton Archive/Getty Images.
40. Coco Chanel, Misia and José Maria Sert, etc., on the Venice Lido; © Mary Evans/Rue des Archives/Talendier.
41. Gabrielle Chanel skiing with Etienne de Beaumont, etc. Henri de Beaumont. All rights reserved.
42. Coco Chanel in jersey suit c. 1931; Getty Images.
43. Coco Chanel in white satin pajamas; Photo by New York Times Co./Getty Images.
44. Coco Chanel with Lady Pamela Smith and models, 1932; © Bettmann/ CORBIS.
45. Coco Chanel with Cecil Beaton c. 1937; John Phillips/Time & Life Pictures /Getty Images.
46. Coco Chanel and Fulco di Verdura, 1937; Lipnitzki Roger Viollet/Getty Images.
47. Gabrielle with Salvador Dalà c. 1938. Image Rights of Salvador Dalà reserved. Fundació Gala-Salvador DalÃ, Figueres, 2011.
48. Gabrielle with Apel-les Fenosa; Hoyningen Huene c. 1939. © R. J. Horst. Photo: courtesy Staley/Wise Gallery NYC.
49. Baroness M. van Zuylen and Serge Lifar; © Mary Evans/Rue des Archives/ Tallandier.
50. Baron Hans von Dincklage, passport photograph, 1950.
51. Model wearing Chanel suit; © Condé Nast Archive/CORBIS.
52. Model in tiered strapless gown with roses; © Condé Nast Archive/CORBIS.
53. Coco Chanel on mirrored staircase at her couture house, 1954; © Condé Nast Archive/CORBIS.
54. Chanel models at 31 rue Cambon, 1958; Roger Viollet/Topfoto.
55. Coco Chanel pinning dress on model 1959; Archive Photos/Getty Images.
56. Animal sculptures in Chanel's rue Cambon salon; © Simon Upton, The Interior Archive.
57. Dining room in Chanel's rue Cambon apartment; © Massimo Listri/ CORBIS.
58. Fashion designer Coco Chanel c. 1965; © Condé Nast Archive/CORBIS.
59. Models attending mass for Coco Chanel; © Bettmann/CORBIS.
INDEX
Abdy, Lady
Abernon, Helen d'
Abetz, Otto
Abetz, Suzanne
Action Française
actresses
Aimée, Anouk
Alain-Fournier
à la recherche du temps perdu
(Proust)
(Proust)
Albania
Alcazar
aldehydes
Alençon, Emilienne d'
Alexander, King of Yugoslavia
alienation
Allenby, Edmund
Allied Force Headquarters
Allied War Coal Commission
Allure of Chanel, The
(Morand)
(Morand)
Amazons
American Emergency Rescue Committee
Amiot, Félix
Angèle (seamstress)
Antigone
(Sophocles)
(Sophocles)
anti-Semitism
Apollinaire, Guillaume
Apollon musagète
(ballet)
(ballet)
Après-midi d'un faune, L'
(ballet)
(ballet)
Aquascutum
Aragon, Louis
A. Rallet & Co.
Arbuthnot-Leslie, Mrs. William
Arcangues, Comtesse Mimi D'
archery
architecture
Argentina
Arletty
Arnaud, Marie-Hélène
Arrivabene, Madina
Arrivabene, Niki
Astruc, Gabriel
atelier system
Aubazine convent
Aubert, Mme.
Auden, W. H.
Auric, Georges
Auschwitz
Austria
Avedon, Richard
Bacall, Lauren
Bader, Théophile
Bailey, David
Baker, Josephine
Bakst, Léon
Balanchine, George
Bal du Comte d'Orgel, Le
Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Ballard, Bettina
Ballets Russes
Balmain, Pierre
Balsan, Charles
Balsan, Consuelo Vanderbilt
Balsan, Etienne
and Coco's relationship with Capel
as horseman
in proposals to Coco
as womanizer
Balsan, Jacques
Balsan, Robert
Balzac, Honoré de
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