Coco Chanel (65 page)
Authors: Lisa Chaney
21
Ibid., p. 34.
Ibid., p. 34.
30
Ibid.
Ibid.
31
Ibid., p. 34.
CHAPTER 7:Ibid., p. 34.
Arthur Capel
2
Ibid., p. 34.
Ibid., p. 34.
3
Arthur's and his father Arthur Joseph's birth certificates as well as the Census records revealed Arthur's antecedents and their subsequent betterment.
Arthur's and his father Arthur Joseph's birth certificates as well as the Census records revealed Arthur's antecedents and their subsequent betterment.
4
Arthur Edward Capel was born at Bedford House, Marine Parade, Brighton.
Arthur Edward Capel was born at Bedford House, Marine Parade, Brighton.
5
Arthur Joseph Capel (from the London post office directory, between 1875 and 1884, one sees Arthur's father's rise to prominence as an entrepreneur). In 1874, he was a businessman and agent for travelers to Paris, and by 1880 he had become a major agent for train and shipping companies in Ireland, England, France and Spain. In 1884, he was a founder of a compressed air company licensed to lay pipes through the streets (Bulletin of Warwickshire Industrial Archeology Society, issue 5, summer 1995). This must have been a very lucrative venture.
Arthur Joseph Capel (from the London post office directory, between 1875 and 1884, one sees Arthur's father's rise to prominence as an entrepreneur). In 1874, he was a businessman and agent for travelers to Paris, and by 1880 he had become a major agent for train and shipping companies in Ireland, England, France and Spain. In 1884, he was a founder of a compressed air company licensed to lay pipes through the streets (Bulletin of Warwickshire Industrial Archeology Society, issue 5, summer 1995). This must have been a very lucrative venture.
6
Joseph's diverse business interests now required distant travel. In December 1884, he was at a coming-out ball for debutantes at Delmonico's, the most distinguished public dining rooms in New York (
The New York Times
). By 1885, it appears he no longer needed to work.
Joseph's diverse business interests now required distant travel. In December 1884, he was at a coming-out ball for debutantes at Delmonico's, the most distinguished public dining rooms in New York (
The New York Times
). By 1885, it appears he no longer needed to work.
8
I am indebted to Father Tom McCoog, archivist at the British Province of the Society of Jesus, Mount Street, London, who pointed out the unlikelihood of Arthur's attendance at Downside and suggested Stonyhurst as his school, and also passed me on to Bernardo Caparrini, who has worked on the history of Beaumont College. Bernardo recommended me to David Knight, archivist at Stonyhurst College, who was assiduous on my behalf in discovering Stonyhurst's record of Arthur (including a photo of him with fellow Gentlemen Philosophers). In the Stonyhurst log, in Arthur's own hand, he details his place of birth and schooling. The information at Stonyhurst was invaluable in my search for this most elusive man.
I am indebted to Father Tom McCoog, archivist at the British Province of the Society of Jesus, Mount Street, London, who pointed out the unlikelihood of Arthur's attendance at Downside and suggested Stonyhurst as his school, and also passed me on to Bernardo Caparrini, who has worked on the history of Beaumont College. Bernardo recommended me to David Knight, archivist at Stonyhurst College, who was assiduous on my behalf in discovering Stonyhurst's record of Arthur (including a photo of him with fellow Gentlemen Philosophers). In the Stonyhurst log, in Arthur's own hand, he details his place of birth and schooling. The information at Stonyhurst was invaluable in my search for this most elusive man.
9
From Bernardo Caparrini, I had these crucial references for Arthur's movements:
The Beaumont Lists for Fifty Years, 1861â1911; Supplement to The Beaumont Review
Old Windsor;
The Beaumont Review
Office, 1911, p. 17;
The Beaumont Lists, 1861â1961; The Beaumont Review
, no. 207, October. 1963, p. 470. Bernardo also referred to “a manuscript document at the Mount Street archives (box PE/2) titled “Lists from 1887â1909 (with follow-up notes)” . . . in which it says (folio 190) . . . “Capel, Arthur Edward (entered Oct. 14, 1891; left Aug., 1897) b. Brighton 1881, was at a school in Paris. Went to San Sebastian in Spain. Was a Philosopher at Stonyhurst, where he carried off the Keating Prize . . .” (The “Keating Prize” was for the best essay on Christian Sociology.)
From Bernardo Caparrini, I had these crucial references for Arthur's movements:
The Beaumont Lists for Fifty Years, 1861â1911; Supplement to The Beaumont Review
Old Windsor;
The Beaumont Review
Office, 1911, p. 17;
The Beaumont Lists, 1861â1961; The Beaumont Review
, no. 207, October. 1963, p. 470. Bernardo also referred to “a manuscript document at the Mount Street archives (box PE/2) titled “Lists from 1887â1909 (with follow-up notes)” . . . in which it says (folio 190) . . . “Capel, Arthur Edward (entered Oct. 14, 1891; left Aug., 1897) b. Brighton 1881, was at a school in Paris. Went to San Sebastian in Spain. Was a Philosopher at Stonyhurst, where he carried off the Keating Prize . . .” (The “Keating Prize” was for the best essay on Christian Sociology.)
10
H. J. A. Sire,
Gentlemen Philosophers
, p. 5. Sire, suggested by Bernardo Caparrini, details life at Stonyhurst College for the Gentlemen Philosophers.
H. J. A. Sire,
Gentlemen Philosophers
, p. 5. Sire, suggested by Bernardo Caparrini, details life at Stonyhurst College for the Gentlemen Philosophers.
14
Following polo at Deauville, Arthur is noted by
Le Gaulois
arriving at Dieppe on his yacht and then spotted the next day at the casino. Throughout the 1910s, he is regularly referred to in
Le Figaro
,
The New York Times
, et cetera.
Following polo at Deauville, Arthur is noted by
Le Gaulois
arriving at Dieppe on his yacht and then spotted the next day at the casino. Throughout the 1910s, he is regularly referred to in
Le Figaro
,
The New York Times
, et cetera.
15
Letter from Arthur Capel to Diana Wyndham: “I hate the main road & the crowd. The world I know is of my own making, the other makes me sick. Their morals, their convictions, their ambitions mean nothing to me. Fancy, sympathy & illusion have ever been my bed mates & I would never change them for Consideration, Position or Power
.
” Capel correspondence, courtesy of Christopher Osborn. This letter is undated, as are all those from Arthur.
Letter from Arthur Capel to Diana Wyndham: “I hate the main road & the crowd. The world I know is of my own making, the other makes me sick. Their morals, their convictions, their ambitions mean nothing to me. Fancy, sympathy & illusion have ever been my bed mates & I would never change them for Consideration, Position or Power
.
” Capel correspondence, courtesy of Christopher Osborn. This letter is undated, as are all those from Arthur.
16
Valerie Steele,
Paris Fashion
, pp. 71â72. I based my argument here on Ms. Steele's description of the
grisettes
in this thought-provoking book
.
Valerie Steele,
Paris Fashion
, pp. 71â72. I based my argument here on Ms. Steele's description of the
grisettes
in this thought-provoking book
.
17
Ibid., p. 71.
Ibid., p. 71.
18
Ibid.
CHAPTER 8 :Ibid.
Refashioning Paris
1
Vanessa Schwartz,
Spectacular Realities
, p. 229. Ms. Schwartz informed my descriptions of the development of mass culture in Paris.
Vanessa Schwartz,
Spectacular Realities
, p. 229. Ms. Schwartz informed my descriptions of the development of mass culture in Paris.
2
Colin Jones,
Paris: Biography of a City
, p. 410. I am indebted, for this section, to this excellent work on Paris.
Colin Jones,
Paris: Biography of a City
, p. 410. I am indebted, for this section, to this excellent work on Paris.
3
Ibid., p. 365.
Ibid., p. 365.
4
Ibid., p. 386.
Ibid., p. 386.
5
Schwartz, p. 92.
Schwartz, p. 92.
7
Ibid.
Ibid.
8
Ibid.
CHAPTER 9: The Rite of SpringIbid.
1
Revue de Paris
, t. 6, pp. 279, 276. Blanche, regarded by some as ingratiating, was sharp tongued, a fine portraitist, and also made it his business to know everyone.
Revue de Paris
, t. 6, pp. 279, 276. Blanche, regarded by some as ingratiating, was sharp tongued, a fine portraitist, and also made it his business to know everyone.
3
Ibid., p. 72.
Ibid., p. 72.
4
Ibid., p. 73.
Ibid., p. 73.
7
Eksteins, p. 39.
Eksteins, p. 39.
8
Mary Davis,
Classic Chic
, p. 26. Mary Davis's seminal work was most helpful in the section on Poiret and the relationship between fashion and developing modernism.
Mary Davis,
Classic Chic
, p. 26. Mary Davis's seminal work was most helpful in the section on Poiret and the relationship between fashion and developing modernism.
9
Ibid.
CHAPTER 10 :Ibid.
The End of an
Epoque
2
Ibid.
Ibid.
5
Ibid., p. 151.
Ibid., p. 151.
8
Ibid.
Ibid.
9
Ibid., pp. 43, 45.
CHAPTER 11 :Ibid., pp. 43, 45.
Master of Her Art
2
All references in this section ibid., p. 52.
All references in this section ibid., p. 52.
3
Ibid., p. 45.
Ibid., p. 45.
8
Galante, p. 38.
Galante, p. 38.
9
Ibid., p. 37.
Ibid., p. 37.
10
Ibid.
Ibid.
11
Ibid., p. 39.
Ibid., p. 39.
12
Ibid.
CHAPTER 12:Ibid.
The War Bans the Bizarre
2
Letter from “the General Officer, Commander in Chief, the British Army in France” to “the Secretary, War Office, London,” March 20, 1916, National Archives, Kew.
Letter from “the General Officer, Commander in Chief, the British Army in France” to “the Secretary, War Office, London,” March 20, 1916, National Archives, Kew.
5
Max Egremont,
Under Two Flags
, p. 27. This admirable biography was instructive in my understanding of what Arthur Capel's work as a liaison officer would have been like. Spears's comments on Arthur (from Spears's diaries in Colonel Anthony Aylmer's collection) were another vital step in discovering Arthur's life.
Max Egremont,
Under Two Flags
, p. 27. This admirable biography was instructive in my understanding of what Arthur Capel's work as a liaison officer would have been like. Spears's comments on Arthur (from Spears's diaries in Colonel Anthony Aylmer's collection) were another vital step in discovering Arthur's life.
11
Scheijen, p. 331.
Scheijen, p. 331.
12
Davis, p. 117.
Davis, p. 117.
13
Ibid., pp. 128â29.
CHAPTER 13:Ibid., pp. 128â29.
Remember That You're a Woman
3
Ibid., p. 196.
Ibid., p. 196.
4
Ibid., p. 202.
Ibid., p. 202.
5
Ibid., p. 197.
Ibid., p. 197.
7
Ibid., p. 135.
Ibid., p. 135.
10
Sir Jeremy Hutchinson in interview with author, September 2008.
Sir Jeremy Hutchinson in interview with author, September 2008.
11
Christopher Osborn in interview with author, September 2008.
Christopher Osborn in interview with author, September 2008.
12
Arthur Capel's correspondence, Christopher Osborn. These letters proved invaluable in “reading” Arthur and the relationships with Diana and Gabrielle.
Arthur Capel's correspondence, Christopher Osborn. These letters proved invaluable in “reading” Arthur and the relationships with Diana and Gabrielle.
13
Ibid.
Ibid.
14
Christopher Osborn, in interview with author, June 2009.
Christopher Osborn, in interview with author, June 2009.
15
Arthur Capel correspondence, Christopher Osborn.
Arthur Capel correspondence, Christopher Osborn.
16
Ibid.
Ibid.
22
Ibid., pp. 79â80.
Ibid., pp. 79â80.
23
Ibid., p. 80.
Ibid., p. 80.
24
Maurois, p. 160.
CHAPTER 14 :Maurois, p. 160.
Alone
3
Capel correspondence, Christopher Osborn.
Capel correspondence, Christopher Osborn.
4
The Papers of Alfred Duff Cooper (1st Viscount Norwich), DUFC 12/8, July 5, 1918, Churchill Archives Center, Cambridge.
The Papers of Alfred Duff Cooper (1st Viscount Norwich), DUFC 12/8, July 5, 1918, Churchill Archives Center, Cambridge.
5
Ibid.
Ibid.
7
Edward Stanley, Earl of Derby,
Paris 1918: The War Diary of the British Ambassador
, August 11, 1918, pp. 133â34.
Edward Stanley, Earl of Derby,
Paris 1918: The War Diary of the British Ambassador
, August 11, 1918, pp. 133â34.
9
Benquet Agency letters.
Benquet Agency letters.
10
Earl of Derby, p. 161, August 22, 1918.
Earl of Derby, p. 161, August 22, 1918.
12
Ibid., p. 160.
Ibid., p. 160.
14
Lady d'Abernon,
Red Cross and Berlin Embassy, 1915â1926: Extracts from the Diaries of Viscountess d'Abernon
, November 28, 1918, p. 56. My thanks here to Lady Polly Feversham.
Lady d'Abernon,
Red Cross and Berlin Embassy, 1915â1926: Extracts from the Diaries of Viscountess d'Abernon
, November 28, 1918, p. 56. My thanks here to Lady Polly Feversham.
15
Christopher Osborn in interview with author.
Christopher Osborn in interview with author.
16
Ibid.
Ibid.
17
Viscount Norwich,
Duff Cooper Diaries
, April 9, 1918, October 29, 1918, and November 5, 1918. The notion that Duff Cooper and Diana Capel had an affair (Justine Picardie,
Coco Chanel
, p. 88) is based on a misreading of these diaries.
Viscount Norwich,
Duff Cooper Diaries
, April 9, 1918, October 29, 1918, and November 5, 1918. The notion that Duff Cooper and Diana Capel had an affair (Justine Picardie,
Coco Chanel
, p. 88) is based on a misreading of these diaries.
18
Ibid., November 11, 1919.
Ibid., November 11, 1919.
19
Phillip Norcross Gross, Oscar Edward Fleming's nephew, has been helpful with new information on Antoinette Fleming née Chanel.
Phillip Norcross Gross, Oscar Edward Fleming's nephew, has been helpful with new information on Antoinette Fleming née Chanel.
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