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20
Norwich, December 23, 1919. These diary entries proved crucial in the last piece of the Arthur Capel/Diana Capel/Chanel puzzle.
21
Axel Madsen,
Chanel: A Woman of Her Own
, p. 99.
22
Norwich, January 21, 1920.
23
Charles Roux,
Chanel
, p. 178.
24
Stonyhurst Magazine
and
Le Gaulois,
January 2, 1920.
25
Capel correspondence, Christopher Osborn.
26
Ibid.
27
Ibid.
28
Morand,
Allure
, pp. 54–55.
CHAPTER 15:
Beginning Again
1
Colin Simpson,
Artful Partners
, pp. 168–78.
2
Elisabeth de Clermont-Tonnerre,
Mémoires
, vol. IV,
La Treizième Heure,
p. 154.
3
Charles Roux,
Chanel
, p. 183, and Axel Madsen,
Chanel: A Woman of Her Own
, p. 106.
4
Services Archives-Documentation, Mairie de Garches.
5
Churchill Archives Center DUFC12/8, 17.
6
Paul Morand,
Venices
, p. 121.
7
Paul Morand,
The Allure of Chanel
, p. 59.
8
Marcel Haedrich,
Coco Chanel
, p. 112.
9
Ibid.
10
Charles Roux, p. 196.
11
Morand,
Allure
, p. 62.
12
Ibid., p. 60.
13
Ibid.
14
Ibid., p. 63.
15
Audio recording, Gabrielle Chanel, Bibliothèque Nationale de France (undated).
16
Richard Buckle,
Diaghilev
, p. 161.
17
Morand,
Allure
, p. 84.
18
John Richardson,
A Life of Picasso
, vol. III, p. 39.
19
Buckle, p. 364.
20
Mary Davis,
Classic Chic
, p. 226.
21
Richardson, vol. III, p. 174.
CHAPTER 16 :
The Strangest and Most Brilliant Years
1
Paul Morand,
The Allure of Chanel
, p. 107.
2
Mary Davis,
Classic Chic
, p. 179.
3
Morand,
Allure
, p. 127.
4
Chanel interview BNF.
5
Richard Buckle,
Diaghilev
, p. 412.
6
Davis, pp . 183–85.
7
Ibid., p. 179.
8
Chanel interview BNF.
9
John Richardson,
A Life of Picasso
, vol. III, p. 177.
10
Gaia Servadio,
Luchino Visconti: A Biography
, p. 41.
11
Morand,
Allure
, p. 128.
12
Ibid., pp. 30–31.
13
Ibid., p. 31.
14
Morand,
Lettres du voyageur
, letter to Valentine Hugo, January 2, 1921.
15
Morand,
Allure
, p. 128.
16
Ibid., p. 81.
17
Chanel interview BNF.
18
Arthur Rubinstein,
My Many Years
, p. 151.
CHAPTER 17:
Dmitri Pavlovich
1
Pavlovich diaries, February 9, 1921. For guiding my thoughts on Dmitri Pavlovich, and painstaking translations of all of the following diary entries, I am most grateful to William Lee.
www.directarticle.org/Will_Lee_Sue_Woolmans.html
.
2
Marie Pavlovna,
A Princess in Exile
, p. 71.
3
Ibid., p. 130.
4
Ibid.
5
Amanda Mackenzie Stuart,
Consuelo and Alva Vanderbilt
, p. 158.
6
Pavlovich, February 9, 1921.
7
Ibid., February 10, 1921.
8
Ibid.
9
Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold,
The Life of Misia Sert
, p. 132.
10
In conversation with William Lee.
11
Pavlovich, March 18, 1921.
12
Ibid., May 2, 1921.
13
Marcel Haedrich,
Coco Chanel
, p. 26.
14
I am grateful to Philip Norcross Gross for this information.
15
Charles Roux,
Chanel
, p. 176.
16
Haedrich, p. 26.
17
Pavlovich, May 4, 1921.
18
Ibid., May 5, 1921.
CHAPTER 18 :
The Lucky N° 5
1
Vogue
, October 1920.
2
Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold,
The Life of Misia Sert
, p. 201.
3
Ibid.
4
Ibid.
5
Pierre Galante,
Mademoiselle Chanel
, p. 67.
6
Ibid., p. 69.
7
Ernest Beaux “Souvenir de parfums,” in
Industrie de la parfumerie
, vol. I, no. 7, October 1946.
8
Galante
,
p
.
74.
9
Audio recording, Gabrielle Chanel, Bibliothèque Nationale de France (undated).
10
Patrick Doucet painstakingly described the development of Chanel perfumes and helped me toward a chronology of N° 5.
11
Chanel catalogue, Chanel Conservatoire.
12
Galante, p. 75.
13
Ibid.
14
Audio recording, Gabrielle Chanel, Bibliothèque Nationale de France (undated).
CHAPTER 19 :
Entirely in White and Covered in Pearls
1
All references in this paragraph are from Paul Morand,
The Allure of Chanel
, p. 104.
2
Francis Steegmuller,
Cocteau
, p. 268.
3
Jean Cocteau,
Le passé défini
, February 6, 1956, p. 42.
4
John Richardson,
A Life of Picasso
, vol. III, p. 87.
5
Marcel Haedrich,
Coco Chanel
, p. 105.
6
Marie Pavlovna,
A Princess in Exile
, p. 174.
7
Axel Madsen,
Chanel: A Woman of Her Own
, p. 118.
8
Harper's Bazaar
, March 1937.
9
Madsen, p. 118.
10
All preceding quotes in this section are from Marie Pavlovna.
11
Gaia Servadio,
Luchino Visconti: A Biography
, p. 31.
12
Steegmuller, p. 170.
13
Ibid., pp. 241–42.
14
Ibid., p. 301.
15
Ibid., p. 308.
16
Ibid., p. 276.
17
Ibid., p. 297.
18
Chanel to Etienne de Beaumont in the Institut Mémoire de l'édition Contemporaine, fonds E. Beaumont.
19
Chanel correspondence, Chanel Conservatoire.
20
Chanel archive.
CHAPTER 20 :
Reverdy
1
Paul Morand,
The Allure of Chanel
, p. 133.
2
Charles Roux,
Chanel
, p. 370.
3
Marcel Haedrich,
Coco Chanel
, p. 138.
4
Jean Cocteau,
Le passé défini
, vol. 5, April 1956, p. 91.
5
Collection Chanel, by kind permission of the estate of Pierre Reverdy.
6
Francis Steegmuller,
Cocteau
, p. 325.
7
Roux, p. 230.
CHAPTER 21 :
At the Center
1
Paul Morand,
The Allure of Chanel
, p. 148.
2
Ibid., p. 118.
3
Ibid., p. 146.
4
Ibid., p. 147.
5
Ibid., pp. 145–48.
6
Carmel Snow,
The World of Carmel Snow
, p. 31.
7
Morand,
Allure
, pp. 122, 151.
8
Ibid., p. 123.
9
Whitney Chadwick and Tirza True Latimer,
The Modern Woman Revisited
, p. 89.
10
Ibid.
11
Ibid., p. 82.
12
Ibid., pp. 80–85.
13
Ibid.
14
Vogue
, March 1, 1923.
15
Morand,
Allure
, p. 47.
16
Ibid., p. 155.
17
Ibid., p. 131.
18
Ibid., p. 133.
19
Arthur Rubinstein,
My Many Years
, p. 125.
20
Renée Mourgues,
La République
, October 13, 1994.
21
Pierre Galante,
Mademoiselle Chanel
, p. 155.
22
Maurice Sachs,
La Décade de l'illusion
, p. 138.
CHAPTER 22 :
Bend'Or
1
Jean Cocteau,
Lettres à sa mère
, vol. V, May 24, 1957.
2
Marcel Haedrich,
Coco Chanel
, p. 125.
3
George Ridley,
Bend d'Or, Duke of Westminster
, p. 141
4
Ibid.
5
Ibid., p. 134.
6
Winston and Clementine Churchill,
Speaking for Themselves
, p. 313.
7
Ibid., p. 306.
8
Paul Morand,
The Allure of Chanel
, pp. 158–59.
9
Ibid., p. 160.
10
Ibid., p. 165.
11
Ibid.
12
The Wendy and Emery Reves Collection
catalogue, Dallas Museum of Art.
13
Bettina Ballard,
In My Fashion
, p. 49.
14
Morand,
Allure
, p. 169.
15
Ibid., p. 69.
16
Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold,
The Life of Misia Sert
, p. 271.
17
Marcel Billot,
Journal de l'Abbé Mugnier
, August 6, 1928.
18
Axel Madsen:
Chanel: A Woman of Her Own
, p. 172.
19
Vogue
, August 1930.
20
Loelia, Duchess of Westminster,
Grace and Favor
, p. 159.
21
Dorothy Ponsonby, diaries, February 20, 1930.
22
Morand,
Allure
, p. 162.
23
Ibid., pp. 165–67.
24
Ridley, p. 167.
25
Morand,
Allure
, p. 167.
CHAPTER 23:
The Crash
1
Francis C. Rose,
Saying Life: The Memoirs of Sir Francis Rose
, p. 154.
2
Axel Madsen,
Chanel: A Woman of Her Own
, p. 186.
3
Paul Morand,
The Allure of Chanel
, p. 151.
4
Charles Roux,
Chanel
, p. 237.
5
Morand,
Allure
, pp. 149–50.
6
Judith Thurman,
Secrets of the Flesh: A Life of Colette
, p. 377.
7
Charles Roux, p. 291.
8
Morand,
Chroniques
, 1931–1954, p. 314.
9
Gaia Servadio,
Luchino Visconti: A Biography
, p. 40.
10
Ibid., p. 42.
11
Madsen, p. 210.
12
Ibid.
13
Servadio, p. 52.
14
Lilou Marquand,
Chanel m'a dit
, p. 108.
15
Ibid., p. 137.
16
Morand,
Allure
, p. 112.
17
Ibid., p. 111.
CHAPTER 24 :
Schiap Had Lots of It but It Was Bad
1
Bettina Ballard,
In My Fashion
, p. 61.
2
Ibid., p. 62.
3
Ibid., p. 140.
4
Dalí letters to Gabrielle Chanel, Dalí correspondence, courtesy Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí.
5
Paul Morand,
The Allure of Chanel
, p. 170.
6
Ibid., p. 172.
7
I am most grateful to Jean-Noël Liaut for this and much other useful information.
8
Marcel Billot,
Journal de l'Abbé Mugnier
, February 22, 1929.
9
Jean Hugo,
Carnets
, February 17, 1967.
CHAPTER 25 :
War
1
Janet Flanner,
Paris Was Yesterday
, p. 222.
2
Pierre Galante,
Mademoiselle Chanel
, p. 170.
3
Axel Madsen,
Chanel: A Woman of Her Own
, p. 226.
4
Charles Roux,
Chanel
, p. 373.
5
Flanner, p. 222.
6
Dalí letters to Gabrielle Chanel, Dalí correspondence, courtesy Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí.
7
Madame Gabrielle Labrunie interview with the author.
8
Nicole Fenosa and Bertrand Tillier,
Apel-les Fenosa: Catalogue raisonné de l'œuvre sculpté
.
9
Lilou Marquand interview with the author.
10
William Bullitt, pp. 481–86.
11
Marcel Haedrich,
Coco Chanel
, p. 143.
12
Ibid., pp. 143–44.
CHAPTER 26 :
Survival
1
Marcel Haedrich,
Coco Chanel
, p. 178.
2
Ibid.
3
Francis Steegmuller,
Cocteau
, p. 438.

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