Cooking for Two (2 page)

Measuring Spoons
Because the recipes often call for
¼
or even
teaspoon of spices or leavenings, invest in measuring spoons that can accurately gauge these minuscule amounts. All measurements in this book are for level teaspoonfuls, tablespoonfuls, and cupfuls.

Mini Food Processor
A mini food processor is not required for the recipes in this book, but it’s quite helpful. While not equipped with fancy gadgetry like a 1 mm slicing blade, it can finesse smaller
amounts than a larger model, where, for example, the cutting blade simply passes over a teaspoon of parsley.

Paper Pastry Shells
Some baking recipes offer you the option of paper pastry shells. Long a professional baker’s tool, these shells are now available to home bakers through baking supply stores and well-stocked gourmet markets. For the recipes in this book, use paper pastry shells that are 4 inches in diameter. One caveat: watch the baking time carefully. Made of paper, the shells don’t cook as quickly as metal tins; you may need to increase the baking time by 10 or even 20 percent. For baking, they must be placed on a baking sheet, preferably an insulated one.

Saucepans and Skillets
As a rule of thumb, a small saucepan is 1 or 1½ quarts; a medium, 2 or 2½ quarts. A small skillet or sauté pan is 6 or 7 inches in diameter; a medium, 8 to 10 inches.

Springform Pans
One alternative to baking in a ramekin or a paper pastry shell is a small springform pan. Choose a 4-inch pan with a sturdy locking mechanism. A nonstick pan works best, but it can scratch if you use a knife or metal spatula to release the cake from the pan’s bottom. If you use nonstick pans, use cookware specifically designed for this surface, such as heat-safe rubber spatulas and knives.

In the past, small-batch recipes suffered from lackluster flavors because the ingredients were pared down to the basics. To heighten the flavors in our recipes, we’ve called for a few ingredients that might not be familiar to you. Others such as onions and celery, less exotic but nonetheless in this list, might require a little explanation about purchasing and storing for small-batch cooking.

Ancho Chiles
One form of dried poblano peppers (the other, mulatos, are smokier in taste), anchos are among the most aromatic dried chiles you can find. Look for whole, red, shiny, flexible anchos, without torn skins. They’re available at most supermarkets (usually in the produce section), at all Latin American and Mexican markets, and from sources listed in the Source Guide (page 269).

Celery
Since it cannot be bought one rib at a time, leave extra celery ribs attached to the root and store them in a sealed plastic bag in the hydrator for up to 2 weeks. If the ribs have gone limp, give them a fresh cut about one inch above the root end, then try refreshing them in a bowl of ice water for an hour. You may also find celery on the buffet at your neighborhood deli, supermarket salad bar, or takeout eatery. The quality, of course, varies dramatically, but you can always buy just what you need. In fact, supermarket salad bars can be a great resource when cooking in small batches: two small carrots, one radish, a single celery rib.

Chili Powder
Chili powder is a blend of powdered dried chiles (often dried ancho chiles), dried oregano, and ground cumin; Mexican or Latin American brands can also include ground cloves, cinnamon, garlic, salt, and cilantro. Because of the chemical reaction among the spices’ oils, chili powder goes stale quickly; store it in a cool, dark place for no more than three months.

Clam Juice
Available bottled in most supermarkets, this is the liquid left over when clams are cooked. Buy it only in clear bottles; look for a pale white liquid, not beige or brown, with no sandy sediment.

Coconut Milk
This thickened coconut liquid is made by simmering coconut meat in water, then straining the mixture. Do not substitute “cream of coconut,” which is a sweetened coconut mixture made for desserts and tiki-bar drinks.

Dried Mushrooms
Many of these recipes call for dried mushrooms, which are then reconstituted in hot water. Do not substitute fresh mushrooms when a recipe calls for dried. Buy dried mushrooms in clear packages; look for mushrooms that are whole and have a color similar to their fresh counterparts. Do not buy dried mushrooms that have been pounded to dust or that have turned gray from improper storage.

Eggs
For much of the baking, we’ve used either quail eggs or pasteurized egg substitutes, such as Egg Beaters. Do not replace them with pasteurized egg whites, which lack a modified food starch that stabilizes baked goods.

Some recipes call for a whole egg, usually a medium egg, or just an egg white or a yolk. Egg whites and yolks can be stored in the refrigerator, tightly covered, for 2 days, to be added to scrambled eggs or omelets. Egg whites can also be frozen for up to 6 months. To freeze egg yolks, whisk a pinch of salt into each yolk to prevent coagulation, then freeze tightly covered for up to 3 months.

Herbs and Spices
We’ve almost always given you the choice of using dried or fresh herbs. While we prefer fresh, the amounts called for are so small that they can cause leftover fresh herbs, so dried herbs are usually an alternative. In a few cases, we’ve called only for fresh herbs—usually because the dish cooks so quickly that dried herbs don’t have time to soften. Dried herbs and spices can be kept in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months. Ground spices, such as mustard or cinnamon, have a slightly longer shelf life. Dried leafy spices take on a tealike taste when stale.

Liquid Smoke
It can cause fights in some parts of the country among purists, but liquid smoke is an easy way to get a smoky flavor into casseroles. Still, it’s optional in all our recipes. Despite one brand eponymously so-named, there are many varieties, usually
made with mesquite or hickory. The best are simply wood smoke distillate and water, not cut with stabilizers or artificial flavorings.

Mango Chutney
Every supermarket carries Major Grey’s, one version of this vinegary, jamlike sauce made from mangoes and spices. But it’s a pale imitation compared to what’s available in some gourmet markets, at East Indian markets, or from outlets listed in the Source Guide (page 269).

Nam Pla
Nam pla imparts the characteristic taste to many Thai dishes—so much so that this fermented mixture offish and spices is often called the soy sauce of Southeast Asia. Quite pungent, the flavors mellow beautifully when heated. Its slightly milder Vietnamese cousin, nuoc mam, can be substituted.

Nuts
Store them, shelled or not, in the freezer in sealed plastic bags or other airtight containers; there, they will stay fresh for about a year. They can be tossed directly from the freezer into a dry skillet for toasting; otherwise, let them come to room temperature before using them in a recipe.

Onions
For these recipes, a “small onion” is 2 to
2½
inches in diameter. Pre-chopped onions are available in the freezer section of some supermarkets. While the quality of this frozen convenience varies dramatically, it can be a time saver in a pinch.

Pancetta
This cured Italian bacon is not smoked. Pressed into a roll, it’s usually available at the butcher counter or some deli counters. Have the butcher slice off a piece just the size you need. If you buy extra, store it tightly wrapped in the freezer for up to 4 months.

Paprika
Paprika is made from ground red peppers; it’s usually labeled “mild” or “hot.” All the recipes in this book were made with
mild paprika. If you prefer a dish with far more heat, try the hot, sometimes labeled “hot Hungarian paprika.” Because of the interaction of the chile oils, paprika loses its power soon after the container is opened. Store it in a cool, dry, dark place for no more than three months. If yours is bordering on stale, you might be able to refresh it by heating it in a dry skillet over very low heat for about 2 minutes, or until fragrant.

Parmigiano-Reggiano
This aged skimmed-milk cheese from Italy has no substitute. There are some American brands, but they have a less complex taste, as well as a bit more tang. Buy Parmigiano-Reggiano in chunks from a large wheel with the name of the cheese stamped on the rind (a sign of authenticity).

Peanut Oil
American peanut oils tend to be mild; Chinese bottlings smell and taste more like peanuts. A necessity for many Southern, Cajun, and Chinese dishes, peanut oil can go rancid—always smell it before using. Store it tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 6 months. Some bottlings may cloud and solidify in the refrigerator—let the oil reliquefy and come back to room temperature before using.

Pepitás
These pale green pumpkin seeds are common in Mexican and southwestern cooking. You can find them in most health food stores, at some gourmet stores, or from outlets listed in the Source Guide (page 269). They are sold salted or unsalted, hulled or still in their shell. The recipes in this book call only for unsalted, hulled pepitás.

Potatoes
When buying potatoes in bulk, do not store them in your refrigerator; at 40°F, potato starch begins to break down within fifteen minutes. Store potatoes in a cool, dark place, but not with the onions and shallots, the fumes of which will encourage the potatoes to sprout.

Quail Eggs
Even when baking in small batches, egg proteins are still necessary for making cookies and cakes. The perfect-sized answer? Quail eggs, which have begun showing up in many markets.

Because the shells are slightly gelatinous, quail eggs can be difficult to crack. To do so, use a sharp paring knife to saw off a small bit of the top; with your finger or a tiny spoon, scoop out the tiny white and yolk.

If you can’t find quail eggs, use pasteurized egg substitutes, such as Egg Beaters, as an alternative; these can be precisely measured out. We have not called for small chicken eggs because these are not readily available. Indeed, it is illegal to sell them in some locales. Besides, a small chicken egg is still too much egg for some of these recipes.

Red Chili Paste
A mixture of dried chiles, fermented beans, garlic, and thickeners, this Chinese condiment is also sold under names such as “chili paste with garlic” or “Szechwan chili sauce,” or under brand names such as Lan Chi or Sun Wah. You can find it in the Asian aisle of most large supermarkets or in all Asian grocery stores. Quite fiery, it should be used sparingly if you have concerns about the heat of the dish. Store red chili paste in the refrigerator for up to 2 years. If you can’t find red chili paste, substitute an equivalent amount of a mixture of equal parts red pepper flakes and canola or other vegetable oil—although the taste will be less aromatic, less complex, and more biting.

Rice Vinegar
Made from fermented rice and sorghum, rice vinegar is one of the oldest condiments in Asian cooking. Although it comes in many colors and flavors, some quite pungent, all the recipes in this book use white (or clear) unseasoned rice vinegar, the mildest version, available in the Asian section of many supermarkets and in all Asian markets. In a pinch, substitute apple cider vinegar.

Saffron Threads
Long the world’s most treasured spice, saffron is sold in minuscule amounts, a few threads (or stigmas from a variety of purple crocus) per package. It’s often available at the manager’s desk in supermarkets. Look for whole, brightly colored threads, whether red or yellow; they should not be powdered. Store any unused threads in a small, airtight container in a dark, cool place for up to 8 months.

Shallots
Shallots taste like a cross between an onion and garlic, but they look like garlic, with papery hulls and individual cloves, usually two per head. Recipes in this book refer to the entire shallot, all the cloves together. Remove the papery hull, then chop the cloves as you would an onion. Do not refrigerate shallots; store them in a dark, cool place for up to a month. If they sprout, they have lost their usefulness.

Shao Shing
A Chinese rice wine made from glutinous rice, Shao Shing is used to flavor many Asian dishes. In some bottlings, it’s labeled “Shaoxing” or “Hua Tiao” (that is, “carved flower,” because of the carvings on the urns in which it is aged). Stored in a cool place, it can be kept for up to two years. Substitute dry sherry in a pinch—but never substitute Japanese sake or rice vinegar.

Shrimp
All monikers used for shrimp—“jumbo,” “large,” or “colossal”—are mere window-dressing; they carry no official imprimatur. It’s best to buy shrimp according to how many make up a pound; 30 to 35 per pound would be about average for “medium” shrimp. If you’re squeamish about peeling and deveining them, have your fishmonger do this for you. Unless specifically called for, do not use precooked shrimp, sometimes sold as “cocktail shrimp.”