Crashing Waves (24 page)

"Yeah. She's yours now, at least while you're here anyway. Make sure you coat her up good." Rory smiled, turning her head away from the woman kneeling in the sand.
I've never seen a rash guard and board shorts look so good.
She shook her head, concentrating on the line-up of waves instead of Austin's ass.
 

"Yes ma'am." Austin smiled as she watched Rory's eyes travel over her.

"All I want you to do is paddle out and watch the line. You need to get used to the undertow, it's much stronger here. The bottom is a very sharp reef, so be careful. It's fairly deep, but you don't want to wipe out hard. The first thing we're going to work on is judgment and prediction."

"Okay." Austin watched the serious lines forming on Rory's face.

"I want you to judge each wave in every set. You need to be able to predict the composition of every wave before it even breaks on the line. That's all we're working on today. I want you to turn and paddle if you think it's a wave you would drop on, but don't stand, I want you to ride the wave in on your stomach. The second part of today's lesson is learning the strength and power of these waves. They're much stronger than anything you've ever been on. For now, all we're doing is learning the waves."

"I think I can handle it."

"Good. I expect you to do everything that I say and don't go ahead of me…"

"Rory, I trust you and I respect you tremendously. I won't stand up until you tell me."

"Alright. I'll be right back." Rory walked into the house and returned with a small digital video camera and a tripod.

"What's that for?"

"I'm going to set this up and record everything. Just do as I say. Judge the line and predict the best waves before they break. When I think you've had enough, we'll go inside and watch the tape. This is the best teaching tool I have ever seen."

"Sounds good." Austin took off into the water and Rory focused the camera in Austin's direction as she paddled out to the line.

~ ~ ~

Austin sat on the board, bobbing up and down like a cork in the water as the waves came and went. She studied the forming of the waves for close to twenty minutes, and then all of a sudden, she turned on the board and paddled into an oncoming wave as it lifted her and the board. She stayed on her stomach, riding the wave as her heart pounded wildly in her chest and adrenaline raced through her veins. She was overwhelmed by the speed and force of the water beneath her, nearly falling off before the wave finally flattened out. She paddled back out to wait and catch another one, over and over until Rory called her in. Austin rode her last wave as far as she could and paddled the rest of the way to the shore. She ran over to Rory with the board under her arm.

"Well, how did I do?"

"Not bad, want some lunch?"

"Hell yeah, I'm starving. Oh my God, Rory, those waves are unbelievable! I wasn't anticipating the power and just about fell off the first one."

Rory started making turkey sandwiches, while Austin pulled one of the barstools out from under the island in the kitchen. She put her dry towel over it and sat down.

"What do you do at home to keep in shape?" Rory asked.

"I go to the gym sometimes and run a lot around my neighborhood, but mostly my strength comes from working at the aquarium."

I want you to start running with me tomorrow. We'll work out as we run. I used to go to one of the local gyms, but I'd prefer to stay away from the locals if that's alright with you."

"No, that's fine with me."

"Good," Rory said, handing her a sandwich. "We'll start with two miles and build up from there."

~ ~ ~

The next morning Austin met Rory in the sand for their Tai Chi routine. She was dressed very similarly to Rory, in a sports bra and workout shorts.
She's going to kill me dressed like that. As if the skin tight rash guard and tiny board shorts aren't enough, now she's practically naked!
Rory bit her bottom lip, shaking the thoughts from her head. Touching Austin in Australia had barely wet her appetite. The more time she spent around her, cooped up in the small house, the more she wanted her. She was afraid she may snap before their trip was over.
 

"Morning," Austin said, sliding into position next to her.

Rory nodded.  

They went through their routine for the next hour, and then they put on their sneakers. Rory grabbed a small t-shirt to cover her upper body. Deciding that was probably a good idea, Austin put one on as well. Rory set the pace as they ran down the beach towards Waimea Bay. Rory knew that stretch of beach like the back of her hand and when she reached the half mile point, she stopped.

"We're going to drop down and do one set of twenty five sit-ups, push-ups, burpees, and then jumping jacks," Rory said.

"Uh…okay." Austin dropped next to her in the sand.

They took turns counting reps to stay on pace until they'd finished. Both women had beads of sweat running down their faces and were covered in sand.

"Come on," Rory yelled as she took off running again.

They repeated the same routine until they'd ran two miles and completed one-hundred reps of each exercise. Austin's muscles were slightly sore as they arrived back at their starting point. She kicked her shoes off, tore away her socks and peeled her t-shirt off.

"I've never had this much sand in so many places," she grimaced.

Rory laughed and stepped around her, removing her own socks, shoes and t-shirt. She walked onto the side of the deck, pulling a thin metal chain. A shower of cool water washed over her, rinsing away the sand.

"Sweet!" Austin cheered, rushing over to her and squeezing under the spray.

Rory chuckled, stepping aside as Austin stretched under the water like a lazy cat in the sun.

"What's next almighty one?" Austin mocked Rory with a bow as they entered the house.

"Keep that up, smartass, and I'll have you swimming miles of shoreline like I used to do."

"You're kidding me?"

"No I'm not. You have to be in better than perfect shape, Austin. I was…and it wasn't…it wasn't good enough." Rory looked away, finishing in a whisper.

"Hey, I'll do whatever you say. I trust you," Austin said softly as she put her hand on Rory's cheek, turning her head until their eyes met. She wanted so badly to kiss the lips beckoning her.
Your gorgeous eyes take my breath away. You have no idea what you to do me, Rory.
 

"How do you feel?" Rory asked, stepping away from Austin.

"Fine. Why?"

"Think you're ready to ride a wave or two?"

"Sure."

"Go get your board and change. I'll get the camera and meet you out there."

My board. My board that used to be her board. Could I possible ever give this stick a ride anywhere close to the ones she used to give it?
Austin ran her hand over the wax on the light blue and green surfboard.

~ ~ ~

Rory had told Austin to take it easy, and stand up if and when she felt comfortable. Now, she held her breath, waiting for the woman in the water to paddle in and fearlessly drop on her first North Shore wave; the same woman that was slowly showing her how to live again.

Austin took a deep breath, paddling as hard as she could as the most beautiful break she'd ever seen picked the board up under her, rushing forward as she dropped on the face, popping up to her feet. She carved a little, but mostly just rode the face of the wave, reaching down and letting her left hand trail the water behind her. She was sure she'd held that deep breath until the ride was over. She felt an incredible sense of self pride. One of her lifelong dreams had just come true. Her heart pounded out of her chest and she fought back tears of joy as she paddled back out to do it all over again.  

Rory's nerves were frazzled watching Austin ride wave after wave. She wiped the couple of tears that slid down her face. There was nothing like your first time and this was Austin first time riding a tube style, competition wave. This was the same beach and those were the same waves that she'd used to hone her own skills, learning how to become a champion.

After her fourth ride, Rory waved her arms and yelled for her to come back in. Austin came out of the water, jogging towards Rory. She tossed the board in the sand before jumping into Rory's arms. Rory had no time to react, much less brace herself, as she fell back into the sand with Austin on top of her. Their lips met as she wrapped her arms around Austin's waist, kissing her passionately. The weight of the slightly smaller woman on top of her was welcoming. The saltwater soaking her clothes was nothing compared to the flood between her legs. Rory felt the fire in her belly roar to life when she slid her hand under the thin material of the rash guard and over the silky smooth skin of Austin's back.

Austin moaned into the kiss, rocking her hips into Rory and sliding her wet thigh between her legs.

The sudden pressure on her center shocked Rory back to reality. She opened her eyes, rolling Austin off her in one fluid motion.

"What's wrong?" Austin panted.

"I can't. I'm sorry," Rory said as she stood up, walking away.

"Damn it. I know you want me. You've shown me how much you want me. You're fighting demons larger than I could ever imagine. If you would just open up and let me in…I can help you. Rory, we can fight them together," she said to the empty beach as she kicked her foot in the sand.

Chapter Fifteen

A week later, Austin was ripping waves every morning and afternoon. She continued to follow Rory's strict regime of Tai Chi. Then, they would do their running workout, adding more reps to each exercise, daily. Her body was becoming tighter and stronger than she'd ever seen it, and she was more focused mentally, than she could've ever imagined. Rory worked closely with her, teaching her every aspect that she could without actually getting into the water and riding the waves next to her.

They hadn't talked about their kiss in the sand. The one time Austin had tried to bring it up, Rory had changed the subject and gone to bed early. She was on the verge of giving up on ever getting Rory to open up to her. They still had one more week before the tournament and then they'd go back home and back to work, away from each other. She wondered if Rory would have anything to do with her once she joined the pro tour.

Austin sat on the deck, watching the sun slowly sink into the ocean. Her dreams were coming true and her heart was breaking at the same time. She wiped the tears from her cheeks. The bittersweet feeling was sickening. She'd never felt more alone.

Rory walked outside with a beach blanket rolled up under her arm.

"Do you want to take a walk with me?" Rory asked, stopping next to Austin.

"Sure." Austin stood, following her lead through the dunes. Rory headed off in the opposite direction from the one they ran in each day. "We never go this way," Austin said, matching her slow pace.

"It's time," Rory replied, watching the sky as it began to darken.

Time for what?
Austin shook her head. She wasn't in the mood for one of Rory's philosophical riddles.

They walked a mile down the beach in silence as the full moon rose high over in the night sky, illuminating the ocean. The hair on the back of Rory's neck stood up. Her skin was cold, despite the warm temperature of the evening. The roar of the waves crashing in the distance was deafening to her ears. Her chest constricted so tightly, she could barely breathe as she stopped walking and turned towards the water. She dropped the blanket in the sand, spreading it as she sat down.

Austin hadn't paid much attention to her surroundings. She'd been running on autopilot over the past few days, fighting her feelings for Rory and knowing their time together was coming to an end. She watched Rory sit down, tucking her knees against her chest as she wrapped her arms tightly around them. She raised an eyebrow at Rory's odd behavior and turned her head towards the water.

Austin stumbled, nearly falling on top of Rory as the largest wave she'd ever seen swelled in the distance, roaring loudly towards the shore, forming a perfect barrel. The face of the wave was close to ten feet tall and closing out quickly. She was stunned, literally speechless as she watched the next wave crest almost identically. She wasn't sure how long she'd been holding her breath from the shock of the incredible wave, but her heart raced with excitement.

"Oh my God," Austin finally muttered.

"Welcome to Bonzai Pipeline," Rory said softly. She pointed in the distance to the left. "Backdoor is right over there."

"Wow! This…it's incredible," Austin whispered.

"Underneath that majestic display of nature is a razor sharp reef with jagged rocks in very shallow water."

Austin turned her head, noticing the tears on Rory's cheeks, glistening in the moonlight. "Oh, Rory, I'm sorry," she said, wrapping her arms around the sobbing woman. She'd seen the video of Rory's accident and knew it had taken place right there on that very same wave.

Rory cried uncontrollably, mourning the loss of her spirit and her passion, and essentially, the loss of herself. Everything she had ever known had died in those waves crashing to shore in front of her. She hated them for swallowing her whole, taking everything from her and spitting out a shell of the person she used to be. It had taken her years of spiritual meditation to get over the anger and now, the hatred only made her feel empty with sadness. She ran her hand along the four inch scar on the left side of the top of her head, which had been a daily reminder of her tragic dance with the devil.

"We didn't need to come here," Austin murmured.

"Yes…yes I did," Rory wept. "I needed to do this." She allowed Austin to hold her as she wiped her eyes. "It's the only way I can move on," she sighed, as the last of the tears fell. "I have to let go."

She stared at the magnificent waves. They were just as beautiful as she'd remembered. "It's amazing how something so spectacular can literally rip your life right out from under you in less than a split second. A wave like that is unforgiving and it never looks back."