Crochet: Crochet with Color (3 page)

The Intarsia color technique is used to create pictures in crochet. It is a fun technique and opens up all sorts of project possibilities. As you work across the row you change colors and leave the old color rest in the row until you work back to it on the next row. This means that for each color change you will need a separate bobbin of yarn.

You can purchase plastic bobbins, or use small pieces of cardboard or heavy paper to wind up the yarn you need. Look at your pattern and see which row has the most color changes. Count up the colors and the times you need to change them and wind up your bobbins accordingly. For example, if you need to change a color three times, then you will need three bobbins of that one color.

Before we begin to actually crochet an example let’s look at an Intarsia chart.

Charts are read from the bottom up starting in the right hand bottom corners. They are read exactly as you crochet them with odd rows read from right to left, and even rows read from left to right.

Each square on a chart represents a stitch. You can use single, half double, and double crochet stitches for an Intarsia project. You will use the same stitches throughout the project so keep that in mind when choosing which stitch you want to use. Also the stitches you choose will affect the finished size of the project, so you may want to work up a quick gauge swatch in each stitch to see how it affect the size.

The foundation chain is not usually represented in a chart. Count up the stitches across the row and then add the appropriate number for the first stitch. For example, in the following chart for a simple diamond shape there are 9 stitches across the row. If you’re using double crochet, then you would chain 9 plus 3 for the first stitch.

In this chart you can see there are only 3 color changes on all rows except for the first and last row. This means you need to wind up 2 bobbins of white, and 1 bobbin of blue. Begin by reading Row 1 from right to left and work 9 white double crochet stitches (the plus 3 counts as the first stitch).

Row 2 is read from left to right. Work 4 white stitches, 1 blue stitch, and 4 white stitches dropping the old color and picking up the new colors as you work across the row.

Row 3 is read from right to left. Work 3 white, 3 blue, 3 white.

Row 4 is read from left to right. Work 2 white, 5 blue, 2 white.

Row 5 is read from right to left. Work 1 white, 7 blue, 1 white.

Row 6 is read from left to right. Work 2 white, 5 blue, 2 white.

Row 7 is read from right to left. Work 3 white, 3 blue, 3 white.

Row 8 is read from left to right. Work 4 white, 1 blue, 4 white.

Row 9 is read from right to left and finishes with 9 white. Fasten off and weave in the tails.

Keep the yarn in the back of your work as you work across the rows and change colors. This will leave it in the correct position when you work the next row.

When you change colors in Intarsia you will notice there is a strand of yarn in the front of your work.

To hide this strand, catch it under the first stitch of the new color. If you’ve pulled the yarn across more than a couple of stitches, you may have to catch this strand under two stitches to hide it. This creates a cleaner more polished look to your color changes.

Many times color changes in Intarsia look almost pixilated. This is normal because of the way the crochet stitches are constructed. If you want a very clean look, you can use yarn to embroidery around the shapes, or you can surface crochet over the edges of the design.

Be sure to take a few steps back and look at your design before you decide if you like it or not. Remember the design is to be seen as a whole from a bit of a distance, not up close like when you are crocheting.

Here is the finished pattern worked in double crochet and single crochet stitches. Note the difference in the sizes between the two examples. Also single crochet gives you a cleaner look than double crochet, but either stitch is acceptable, as well as half double crochet. Experiment with the different stitches to see which effect you like best.

Double crochet on the left, single crochet on the right

Fair Isle is used to create simple or intricate designs in crochet. You may be familiar with the term Fair Isle used in knitting. Well you can use the same technique in crochet with very pretty results.

Fair Isle patterns are usually charts and are read just like Intarsia charts. Instead of using yarn bobbins, the yarn is stranded across the wrong side of the fabric. Fair Isle crochet is usually used for hats, garments, or other projects where the wrong side is not readily visible.

Stranding Colors

As you change colors in Fair Isle you will carry both colors along the row on the wrong side. Work a complete stitch and then pick up the new color and work a complete stitch. As you pick up and work with a color, catch the other color under the stitches to carry it along the wrong side of the work. This creates strands of yarn on the wrong side, and a pattern on the right side.

Stranding colors on the wrong side

Same pattern on the right side

The Fair Isle portion of this hat was worked with the following pattern:

Row 1: With Color B ch2, hdc into each st, join

Row 2: With Color A ch2, hdc into each st, join

Row 3: With Color A ch2 *with Color B hdc, with Color A hdc* rep around, join

Row 4: With Color A ch2, hdc *with Color A hdc, with Color B work hdc into the  next 2 sts* rep around, join

Row 5: With Color A ch2 *with Color B hdc, with Color A hdc* rep around, join

Row 6: With Color A ch2, hdc into each st, join

Row 7: With Color B ch2, hdc into each st, join

You don’t wind bobbins with the Fair Isle technique, but you carry the colors along the rows and pick them up and drop them as you need them. Unlike Tapestry crochet, you don’t capture the unused color into the active stitches so the unused color isn’t as evident as it is in Tapestry crochet. (We’ll cover Tapestry crochet in the next chapter.)

This is the chart you would use if you wanted to use this Fair Isle pattern. Since you are crocheting in the round the chart is read from right to left for all rows. Usually Fair Isle is not worked in rows since the yarn is stranded on the wrong side and would be visible.

The chart is actually a section of the pattern repeat. Work the stitches across the row and then go back to the beginning of the row and work them again as many times as needed to complete the round.

You can find lots of free Fair Isles pattern online. Be sure to check out Pinterest and Raverly for patterns and ideas.