Culinary Vietnam (5 page)

1
Mix the coconut milk, salt, hoisin sauce, and dipping sauce together well. Bring to a boil in a saucepan and then simmer for about 5 minutes to thicken slightly; let cool. Pour into a large serving bowl, sprinkle with peanuts, and then spoon the chile condiment or fresh chiles in the center. (You may also pour sauce into individual dipping bowls and distribute the peanuts and chiles among them.) The chiles are stirred into the sauce as desired by each individual. Serve at room temperature but store in the refrigerator.

Basic Vietnamese Dipping Sauce

Nuoc Cham

3/4 cup warm water

3 to 4 tablespoons sugar

1/2 cup fish sauce

1/4 cup lime juice or rice vinegar

2 to 3 Thai chiles, or 1 to 2 serrano chiles (red or green), thinly sliced

1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced (optional)

Makes 2 cups

A requirement at every Vietnamese table, Nuoc Cham is used to season grilled and steamed meats, salad and fried rolls, vegetables and seafood. It is used in many recipes, too, but is always put on the table for each individual to dip as their taste dictates. This recipe has a distinct southern Vietnam influence with the addition of lime juice, water, and sugar. You may also use rice vinegar instead of all or part of the lime juice for a variation. In the central and northern regions, Nuoc Cham is often made using only the fish sauce and chiles, perhaps with just a touch of sugar. For those of you who are challenged by the flavor of fish sauce, try substituting two-thirds of the fish sauce with soy sauce. The next time, try a little less soy and more fish sauce, and you will be ready for the real thing before long.

1
Mix the water and sugar, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Combine with the rest of the ingredients and serve. This sauce is typically made fresh for each meal, but leftovers will keep several days in the refrigerator.

Chile-Garlic-Oil Table Condiment

Ot Toi

1 to 2 teaspoons hot red chile flakes

12 to 15 cloves garlic, peeled

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup vegetable oil, divided

Makes almost 1 cup

A regular on many Vietnamese tables, this condiment is for those who want a touch of subtle chile and garlic flavor to add to noodles, soups, and other dipping sauces. It also can be added to marinades for extra zip. It is usually made with dried chiles, but I also offer an option made with fresh ones that is a bit sharper like the many jarred sauces that are available.

1
Smash the chile flakes, garlic, salt, and 4 tablespoons oil in a mortar and pestle, or chop finely in a food processor. Combine with the rest of the oil and heat in a small saucepan over low heat until it bubbles. Continue cooking for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally; cool and serve. Store at room temperature. This condiment will keep for several weeks.

Variation:
To make this recipe with fresh chiles, replace the chile flakes with 1 tablespoon chopped red serrano or Thai chiles and carefully add 1 tablespoon rice or white vinegar to the mixture after it is cooked. Stir well to combine.

Scallion Oil

Mo Hanh

3/4 cup vegetable oil

Pinch of salt

6 medium scallions (mostly the green part, but some white is fine), thinly sliced

Makes about 1-3/4 cups

Used to garnish many dishes and to flavor soups, noodles, vegetables, salads, rice, grilled and boiled meats, etc., this oil is a nice addition to the arsenal of flavors on the Vietnamese table.

1
Heat the oil in a saucepan until fairly hot, about 350 degrees. Add the salt and scallions, and stir for 15 seconds while cooking. Carefully transfer into a room-temperature heatproof bowl to accelerate the cooling process and stir every few minutes to help with the cooling. Serve at room temperature and store sealed in the refrigerator. (Oil may be refrigerated but should be served at room temperature for best flavor.)

Pickled Garlic and Chiles

Ot Ngam Giam

1/3 cup sugar

1 tablespoon kosher or sea salt

1 cup rice or white vinegar

8 to 12 serrano, Thai, or jalapeño chiles, red, green, or a mixture of the two

12 to 14 cloves garlic, peeled

Makes about 1-1/2 cups

These chiles and garlic are served with noodle soups as well as with many rice dishes. In fact, they are great with just about anything. The blanching helps to take the sharp edge off the garlic and chile flavors, and also keeps the color bright.

1
Mix the sugar, salt, and vinegar in a nonreactive bowl and stir until sugar is dissolved. Slice the chiles into 1/8-to 1/4-inch pieces; set aside. Place the garlic in boiling water for 15 seconds, then add the chiles and boil 10 to 15 seconds more. Drain, immediately place in the vinegar mixture, and stir. Allow to cool, place in a glass jar or other nonreactive container with a tight-fitting lid, and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours before using. May be kept for several weeks in the refrigerator.

Marinade for Grilled Meats

Nuoc Sot

1/4 cup hoisin sauce

3 tablespoons fish sauce or soy sauce

2 tablespoons lime juice or vinegar