Deep Dark Chocolate (21 page)

In the top of a double boiler, combine 1½ cups of the milk, ½ cup of the sugar, the chocolate, and the unsweetened and Dutch-process cocoas. Place over simmering water and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chocolate melts and the mixture is hot and blended. Keep warm over low heat.

Meanwhile, in a small, heavy saucepan with a pale interior, combine the remaining ¼ cup of sugar with the water. Over medium heat, stir until the sugar dissolves, then let it cook until the mixture turns
amber. Remove from the heat and slowly add the remaining ½ cup of milk. The mixture will foam. Return to the heat and stir until the sugar dissolves, then stir into the chocolate mixture.

In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolks briefly. Gradually whisk ½ cup of the hot chocolate mixture into the yolk mixture, then gradually whisk the yolk mixture into the hot chocolate mixture. Cook over simmering water, stirring, until the custard thickens, 5 to 7 minutes. To check for doneness, draw your finger through the custard on the back of the spoon; it should leave a trail. Remove from the heat, and continue to stir the custard for a few minutes so that it doesn’t overcook.

Strain the custard through a fine-mesh sieve and cool completely. Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or up to 3 days. Stir the mixture to blend, then pour it into an ice-cream maker. Freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. After the ice cream is made, let it cure in the freezer at least 3 hours before serving. To make serving easier, dip your scoop in warm water before using it.

Fudgy Sauces and Chocolate Fondues

OLD-FASHIONED HOT FUDGE SAUCE

JANE’S ONE-AND-ONLY BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE SAUCE

fast and fantastic artisan chocolate sauce

BROWN SUGAR COCOA SAUCE

A Fondue for Every Season

Old-Fashioned Hot Fudge Sauce

makes
about 1
¹
/
₄
cups sauce

FIVE YEARS AGO, THIS TRADITIONAL HOT FUDGE SAUCE
would have required half as much chocolate and twice as much sugar, but tastes have changed. Today, the real flavor of chocolate is what we crave. Here is an updated version I use for hot fudge sundaes and full-fledged banana splits. When the warm, satiny chocolate flows over ice cream, the sauce becomes slightly chewy and reminiscent of soda-fountain extravaganzas crowned with billowing whipped cream and bright, red cherries.

4 ounces premium unsweetened chocolate, chopped

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces, at room temperature

½ cup boiling water

½ cup granulated sugar

3 tablespoons dark or light corn syrup

¼ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract (optional)

Place the chocolate and butter in a small saucepan and set in a wide pan or skillet of hot water. Set aside for 5 minutes, stirring 4 or 5 times, and let the chocolate melt completely. Stir until smooth, then add the boiling water, sugar, and corn syrup and mix until blended. Place the saucepan over medium-high heat and bring the sauce to a gentle boil. Once it begins to bubble, do not stir. For a thick sauce that becomes slightly chewy over ice cream, gently boil, covered, for 3 minutes. (For an even thicker sauce, gently boil, uncovered, for an additional 3 minutes.) Remove from the heat, let cool slightly, and stir in the salt.

After the sauce is cool enough to taste, try it, then add the vanilla, if desired. If you make the sauce ahead, rewarm it briefly in a pan of hot water or in a microwave for 1 to 1½ minutes, stirring several times, until the sauce is shiny and smooth. Any unused portion can be kept in a closed container in the refrigerator for a week or frozen up to 3 months.

Variation

For
As-You-Like-It Hot Fudge Sauce
, follow the main recipe, substituting your favorite liqueur or spirit, such as Grand Marnier, Kahlúa, or premium bourbon, for the optional ¼ teaspoon vanilla. For best results, begin with 1 tablespoon liqueur, then adjust the flavoring by adding more, according to taste.

Jane’s One-and-Only Bittersweet Chocolate Sauce

makes
about 2
¹
/
₂
cups sauce

THIS CHOCOLATE SAUCE IS THE TIME-HONORED FAVORITE
of my friend and fellow cook Jane Zwinger. You can see how easy it is to make. No wonder this is the recipe Jane turns to when she wants a voluptuous, bitter sweet chocolate sauce to top vanilla-bean ice cream.

No cream? Don’t worry. Replacing the cream with milk or half-and-half will only intensify the taste of the chocolate (another reason to use the best chocolate you can buy). While the feel of the sauce will not be as rich in the mouth (because there is less fat), it will still be marvelous.

¾ cup heavy (whipping) cream

¹
/
₃
cup granulated sugar

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces

¼ cup water

10 ounces premium dark chocolate, chopped

In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the cream, sugar, butter, and water and bring to a gentle boil. Remove from the heat, add the chocolate, cover, and wait 5 minutes. Gently whisk into a smooth, creamy sauce. The warm sauce is ready to use. If made ahead, rewarm briefly in a pan of hot water or in a microwave on low power for 1 to 1½ minutes, stirring several times, until the sauce is shiny and smooth. Any leftover sauce can be kept in an airtight container in the refrigerator for a week or frozen up to 3 months.

Fast and Fantastic Artisan Chocolate Sauce

makes
a little less than 1 cup sauce

DO CACAO PERCENTAGES AND EXPENSIVE SINGLE-ORIGIN
estate chocolates leave you feeling confused, though you’d love to make something simple using a spectacular artisan chocolate bar? If so, this smooth, rich, silky, and effortless topping is the one for you. It’s a good example of how the simplest recipe—a two-ingredient sauce—can be the ideal way to show off a complex and interesting chocolate.

For this recipe, I often use a bar of Dagoba’s Chocolate Infusions, such as their Mint (59%) (mint/rosemary), Roseberry (59%) (rosemary/rose hips), or Xocolati (74%) (chiles/nibs).