Do It Gorgeously: How to Make Less Toxic, Less Expensive, and More Beautiful Products (42 page)

HOW TO

1.
Pull on your gloves—this is a project that’s hazardous to newly manicured nails!

2.
Grab a bunch of old rags and give your furniture a good clean.

3.
Get sanding. Use the 120-grit sandpaper first. Once you’ve gotten rid of any old varnish/stain, finish off with the 220-grit sandpaper. Keep in mind that this is the most time-consuming part of the task, so you may need to turn on your iPod and get going.

4.
If you see any holes or crevices, use your wood filler to fill them in. Leave to dry for the time specified on the container.

5.
Sand the wood filler until smooth.

6.
Slightly dampen a rag and clean off the dust residue and all around the furniture.

7.
Apply your stain finish and leave to dry.

GENERAL WOOD REFINISHING

Refinishing the wood surfaces in your home can give your kitchen, office, or child’s room a total face-lift. Using the techniques outlined for refinishing your outdoor furniture in the previous section, you can refinish countertops, desks, kid’s furniture, and more. I recommend paying the extra for nontoxic stains and sealers, especially for indoor use. Conventional sealers can off-gas toxic fumes for years. I love the BioShield Aqua Resin Stain Finish (available at Green Building Supply, www.greenbuildingsupply.com).

I wouldn’t recommend refinishing:

• Antiques, unless you know they’re not valuable!
  
• Any wood that is particleboard—this is particles or chips of wood that are bonded together with formaldehyde, a tough and toxic resin. This wood can off-gas formaldehyde for years.
  

Clean, Green, and Gleaming Windows

After having someone come to clean my windows a few years ago, at great expense, I realized that there’s really nothing to it. I kept a beady eye out to see his technique and cleaning materials. Get the right tools and you’re good to go.

HOW TO

1.
Prepare your cleaning solution: If you are using the Unger tablet, dissolve it in 2 gallons of water in your bucket. If you are using the castile soap, add 2 tsp. to 2 gallons of water.

2.
If you are using a ladder to clean second-floor windows,
always
have an adult hold your ladder. When planning which windows to start with, the second-floor windows should be tackled first. Never clean your windows in direct sunlight, as they’ll streak.

3.
If you are cleaning interior windows, be sure to put down a throw towel to soak up excess water and drips.

4.
Apply your cleaner with a sponge, making sure you slosh it all over the windows. If you are cleaning interior windows, you might be better off putting your cleaner in a spray bottle, so you can avoid too much excess water.

5.
Drag your squeegee from side to side, starting at one edge and getting as close to the other as possible. Dry off the blade after each stroke with your microfiber cloth.

6.
Create a point by wrapping the microfiber cloth over your index finger to mop up drips along the bottom edge and corners of the windows.
Never
use your microfiber cloth on the actual windowpane, as you’ll immediately get streaks.

AIR-DRYING FOR EVERYONE

Air-drying laundry can be for everyone. I grew up in rainy England and we air-dried our laundry year-round. I have many memories of Mom and me legging it to the backyard to grab sheets and towels off the clothesline as storm clouds broke overhead, but we managed just fine and the short summer months were a breeze.

Retractable lines are the way to go:
If you have a small backyard and you’re resistant because you don’t want to look at a clothesline, I suggest finding a good retractable line. Only a very small area of my yard actually gets sun, so I found a four-line retractable model, which is perfect (it’s the Extendaline Quatro 4, available at Breeze Dryer, www.breezedryer.com).

Rotary rocks:
If you have a lot of space, I recommend going with a rotary line, which is like a huge umbrella strung with clothesline. Your laundry will dry really quickly because it whirls around as it catches the wind. You can also buy a rotary line that can be folded up or even removed from the ground socket. Breeze Dryer has a good selection.

Homemade:
A homemade clothesline will cost you very little and will do a great job. The only disadvantage is that you can’t whip it in and out when the guests come over. If you have an out-of-sight space for your line, you’ll need to use plastic-coated nylon (rope will sag and rot). You can drill a hole and screw a large hook into a wall or a tree to attach the rope.

Drying inside:
If you live in an apartment, or a really rainy city like Seattle, you may want to invest in an indoor drying rack. I don’t recommend getting a cheap rack, as they have a tendency to break really easily. Find one that’s large enough for you to hang out a full load of laundry. If your space is limited, I highly recommend one of the following three models, all available from Urban Clothes Lines (www.urbanclotheslines.com): the D-Rack, the Frazier 3-Tier Mobile Airer, or the Kitchen Maid Ceiling Mounted drying rack. If you are heating your home during the winter, it makes sense to use this heat to dry your clothes, too.

Tips for line drying:

• Use wooden clothespins, as they last longer than plastic.
  
• Don’t leave your clothespins out on the line, as rain and sun will rot them.
  
• Before hanging out clothes, wipe the line clean with a damp rag.
  
• Hang jeans and pants by folding the back waistband over the line and securing with clothespins.
  
• Hang shirts, T-shirts, and dresses from the hem to avoid clothespin indentations on the shoulders.
  
• Bring your laundry in before it gets bone dry. Smooth your garments out on a bed or a clean table and fold. You may be able to avoid ironing.
  
• If you have sheets or garments that you just cannot face ironing, bring them in while they’re still damp and finish them off in your dryer.
  

DIY Car

Unless you have an old jalopy as your ride (and good for you if you do), it’s likely you’ll have a computerized system in your vehicle telling you when you need an engine tune-up, oil change, and just about anything else. Manufacturers also recommend that you don’t fiddle around with the engine yourself, but take it to the dealer, a garage, or an oil-change place. That takes a lot of the DIY out of the equation. I remember the days in England when I had to change the oil (assuming I didn’t forget), water, and windshield washer fluid myself. Back then you also had to know your way around an engine or you were considered to be a loser—and I most certainly
was
! I’m very grateful for the new technology, which doesn’t even require me to put a key in the ignition of my new Prius. I’m also thrilled that there are still a few DIY things I can do that are extremely rewarding.