Do It Gorgeously: How to Make Less Toxic, Less Expensive, and More Beautiful Products (46 page)

4.
When you’re done harvesting (and don’t worry if a few worms end up in the compost bag/bucket), put a fresh layer of bedding down and either even out the existing worms/compost or start over and add the worms from your plastic sheet back into your bin.

SEEDS OR SEEDLINGS

Having successfully prepared the soil in your raised beds, it’s time to choose what you want to grow and get planting. Spring is obviously the best time to plant in most regions. However, you’ll be surprised by how much you can plant at other times of the year, especially if you’ve prepared a cold frame for your raised beds.

The big question for me is always whether to plant the seeds directly into the soil in the raised bed or whether to grow or purchase a seedling first. Successfully germinating a seed requires some TLC. There are only a few seeds that you can toss in the soil outside and expect to grow. By taking care in the early stages, you’ll have strong, healthy plants and a great harvest.

WHAT’S A SEEDLING?

A seedling is a tiny plant (2 to 12 inches high). The advantage of planting seedlings over planting seeds outside is that seedlings have already had a successful start in life, so they’re more likely to survive. You can buy seedlings from your local nursery, farmer’s market, or hardware store, but it’s also really easy to grow them yourself. You can decide whether to start a seedling or plant a seed directly outdoors by reading the directions on the seed packet. I have a long growing season here in Southern California, so I’ve always got something happening in my garden. If you live in a cooler region, you might want to check out Ed Hume Seeds (www.humeseeds.com), which specializes in cool climate seeds.

Starting Your Seedlings

You can start your seeds in virtually any container. Use containers and cartons that you might ordinarily throw away. Cardboard egg cartons, waxed milk cartons (tops cut off), and old yogurt containers are perfect. If you are using a plastic container, punch holes in the bottom for drainage.

HOW TO

1.
Prepare your containers. It’s a good idea to set them in a tray or a large baking pan that can hold ½ inch of water.

2.
Fill each container with some soilless potting mix. You get what you pay for with these mixes, so go with one from a reputable company. I like QuickRoot from Peaceful Valley Farm and Garden Supply (www.groworganic.com).

3.
Sow the seeds at the proper depth (as indicated on the seed packet). This is really important, as sowing them too deep will result in a no-grow!

4.
Set the containers in a bright spot, but not in direct sunlight. They need 14 to 16 hours of light a day. If you set your seedlings on a windowsill, be sure to turn them every day. You can also use a fluorescent light, which creates a more even light. The temperature should be about 65 to 72°F day and night, so for many of you this will be indoors.

5.
Water your seeds with warm water from a sprayer for the first few days. Once the seeds have germinated (you’ll see little green shoots and the first tiny leaves
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), water with room-temperature water. As the plants grow to be an inch or so high, you can water from a watering can or a hose with a fine mist nozzle.

6.
You need to fertilize your seedlings every 2 weeks. However, be careful because too much fertilizer can burn the tiny plants. I love PlanTea fertilizer from Ed Hume Seeds (www.humeseeds.com). It’s inexpensive and very gentle.

7.
Once your seedlings have reached a minimum of 2 to 3 inches, you’re ready to transplant them into a bigger container or a planter. Be very careful how you dig them up. Try not to disturb the roots at all. A metal nail file is a good tool for scooping up the whole plant and transporting it. Have your larger container ready with lightly watered potting soil and an appropriate size hole. Gently drop your plant into the hole and pat the soil around it. Water and set it in a sunny spot.

8.
If you are going to plant them outside, they need to be “hardened off” first. This means that they need to acclimate to outside conditions. Simply place them outside in a shady spot for a few hours each day and then bring them in. After a week, they’ll be ready to face the elements.

MULCHING

I recommend that you use mulch (a layer of organic matter) around your plants to discourage weeds and to insulate and keep your soil from drying out. Think of it as a protective blanket. You can use bark chips, pine needles, straw, sawdust, or small rocks. Cover the entire bed, especially around the plants, with a 2-inch layer of mulch.

IRRIGATION

We all need to conserve as much water as possible, so you’ll need to find the best way to water your plants. Raised beds hold water better than large garden beds, as they’re more contained. I just use a hose. I’ve tried all kinds of new-fangled drip-irrigation systems, but the very act of getting that hose out every day helps me pay attention to my plants and notice if anything is amiss. Make sure you have a shutoff valve at the end of the hose, so you can control the amount of water that comes out. A nozzle with different settings is also a good idea.

Water close to the roots and try not to get the plant wet at all. Always water in the early morning or early evening, when the sun is not direct. Sunlight will evaporate your precious water. Your soil should feel damp. If you pick up a handful and squeeze it, it should be wet enough to stay in a loose clump, but not so wet as to be dripping. Make sure it maintains this texture every day.

WEEDING

With raised beds and good soil, you’ll barely need to weed. Once a month, you may have to kneel down and pull out a few little weeds. Because the soil is loosely packed, they’ll come out easily. It’s a great little chore for a child. Even Lola manages to un-lazy herself for this satisfying little task, especially when a tasty treat is involved.

Organic Pesticides

It has always astonished me how many pests seem to want to aggravate the organic gardener. This is the huge part of organic gardening, and it can be frustrating. You have to be vigilant or all your hard work could be devastated overnight. Having grown my own vegetables, I now have the utmost respect for the organic farmer. When you really understand the work and ingenuity that goes into protecting crops naturally, you’ll never balk at paying a few extra dollars for pesticide-free food.

Why shouldn’t we use regular pesticides? It’s tempting, especially when you’re dealing with a seriously pesky outbreak. However, pesticides attack the nervous systems of the insects and then kill them. If they can do that to an insect, they can obviously adversely affect our health, too. I have heard firsthand horrendous stories of friends who have suffered pesticide poisoning from their own backyards. This kind of poisoning isn’t like food poisoning, where you get sick for a few days—you can be sick for months or even years from just one poisoning. Children and pets are especially vulnerable.

The key to keeping pests at bay is to grow really healthy plants. Plants are like humans, in that when we are healthy and eat well, our immune systems are strong enough to fight off invading germs and parasites. If plants are grown in nutrient-rich soil and are thus well nourished, they’ll be better able to put up a good fight.

There are literally hundreds of pests that could attack your plants. The most common are aphids, cabbage loopers, earwigs, tomato hornworms, and slugs. Make up one of the following sprays to fend off these hungry little critters. If you live in an area where there are deer or rabbits, I suggest you rig up a strong barrier made of chicken wire.

Smelly Pest Spray

Many pests will be disgusted by the smell of this wonderfully effective spray.