Everyday Italian (9 page)
Authors: Giada De Laurentiis
Béchamel Sauce
Mushroom RagùBrown Butter Sauce
TOMATO SAUCES
Even though tomatoes weren’t introduced to Italy until relatively recently—they’re actually a native of Peru, and were taken to Europe by Spanish conquistadores in the sixteenth century—tomato-based sauces have become the hallmark of what Americans think of as Italian food: This is “red sauce.” But red sauce goes well beyond the greasy, garlic-laden stuff from the pizza parlor. The classic marinara sauce is simple and fresh, redolent with the flavors of sweet onions, carrots, and celery as well as the aromas of garlic and olive oil—but in moderation, not in the overpowering fashion of a bygone era. Remember that your tomato sauce will taste only as good as the tomatoes you put in: Although fresh tomatoes are ideal, their season is limited, and it’s no small task to boil, peel, and seed them; that’s not really
everyday
cooking. So I normally use the best canned ones I can find, preferably the San Marzano variety. I always have a few cans of both crushed and whole tomatoes on hand, depending on my needs. You should too.
Kick up your marinara sauce by trying my recipe for Tomato Sauce with Olives.
This is the basic tomato sauce that I use the most. It takes a bit of time to make, but it’s worthwhile because the sauce is so versatile—and during the hour of simmering I can be doing other things out of the kitchen. So I double this recipe, freeze it, and use it all week. Store extra sauce by allowing it to cool completely, then pour two-cup portions into freezer bags and freeze for up to three months. The classic marinara sauce is great with any pasta shape. But when you’re keeping it simple, why not keep it truly simple? Go with the classic spaghetti.
MAKES ABOUT 2 QUARTS (8 CUPS);
1 QUART WILL SERVE 4 OVER PASTA AS A FIRST COURSE
| ½ | cup extra-virgin olive oil |
| 2 | small onions, finely chopped |
| 2 | garlic cloves, finely chopped |
| 2 | celery stalks, finely chopped |
| 2 | carrots, peeled and finely chopped |
| ½ | teaspoon sea salt, plus more to taste |
| ½ | teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste |
| 2 | (32-ounce) cans crushed tomatoes |
| 2 | dried bay leaves |
In a Large Pot,
heat the oil over a medium-high flame. Add the onions and garlic and sauté until the onions are translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the celery, carrots, and ½ teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Sauté until all the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and bay leaves, and simmer uncovered over low heat until the sauce thickens, about 1 hour. Remove and discard the bay leaves. Season the sauce with more salt and pepper to taste. (The sauce can be made 1 day ahead. Cool, then cover and refrigerate. Rewarm over medium heat before using.)
A great way to add just a little something extra to my basic marinara sauce.
MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART; SERVES 4 OVER A POUND OF PASTA AS A MAIN COURSE
| ¼ | cup olive oil |
| 1¼ | cups mixed olives, pitted and halved |
| 1½ | teaspoons dried crushed red pepper flakes, plus more to taste |
| 4 | cups Marinara Sauce |
| ½ | cup thinly sliced fresh basil |
In a Large Sauté Pan,
heat the oil over a medium-high flame. When almost smoking, add the olives and 1½ teaspoons of red pepper flakes, and sauté for 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, carefully pour in the marinara sauce, and simmer until the flavors blend, about 10 minutes. Stir in the basil, and season the sauce with more pepper flakes to taste. (The sauce can be made 1 day ahead. Cool, then cover and refrigerate. Rewarm over medium heat before using.)
There’s just no point in making Checca Sauce at all if the tomatoes aren’t at their peak of ripeness.
My family makes this fresh, uncooked tomato sauce with cherry tomatoes. If you can’t find them, substitute with any sweet tomatoes. But there’s just no point in making this recipe at all if the tomatoes aren’t at their peak of ripeness. This sauce is made all over Italy in the summer, when tomatoes are in season, but only in Rome is it known as
alla Checca.
I like to serve it with a long, thin strand such as spaghettini or angel hair; the fresh flavors seem to go perfectly with these delicate shapes.
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS; SERVES 4 OVER A POUND OF PASTA AS A MAIN COURSE
| 1 | (12-ounce) bag of cherry tomatoes, halved |
| 3 | scallions (white and pale green parts only), coarsely chopped |
| 3 | garlic cloves |
| 1 | (1-ounce) piece of Parmesan cheese, coarsely chopped |
| 8 | fresh basil leaves |
| 3 | tablespoons olive oil |
| 4 | ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, cut into ½-inch cubes |
| ½ | teaspoon salt, plus more to taste |
| ½ | teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste |
In the Bowl
of a food processor, pulse the cherry tomatoes, scallions, garlic, Parmesan, basil, and oil just until the tomatoes are coarsely chopped (do not purée). Transfer the sauce to a large bowl. Stir in the mozzarella cheese and ½ teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Season the sauce with more salt and pepper to taste. Toss the sauce immediately with your choice of freshly cooked pasta.
The sauce known as
all’arrabbiata
—or “in the angry style”—is made with hot red pepper flakes (and sometimes fresh chilies for an extra kick). I like to use the briny elements of olives and capers and skip the fresh chilies, adding depth to the spiciness rather than just more heat. Perfect with penne or rigatoni.
MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART;
SERVES 4 OVER A POUND OF PASTA AS A MAIN COURSE
| 3 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
| 1 | small onion, minced |
| 2 | garlic cloves, minced |
| ½ | cup pitted black olives, coarsely chopped |
| 2 | tablespoons drained capers, rinsed |
| ½ | teaspoon sea salt, plus more to taste |
| Generous pinch of dried crushed red pepper flakes | |
| 1 | (28-ounce) can crushed Italian tomatoes |
In a Large Skillet,
heat the oil over a medium-high flame. When almost smoking, add the onion and garlic and sauté for 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and add the olives, capers, ½ teaspoon of salt, and red pepper flakes, and sauté for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and simmer until reduced slightly, about 20 minutes. Season the sauce with more salt to taste. (The sauce can be made 1 day ahead. Cool, then cover and refrigerate. Rewarm over medium heat before using.)
This is Rome’s most famous pasta sauce, but the recipe actually originated in a town outside of Rome called Amatrice. This sauce is bold and perfectly balanced with tangy tomatoes, sweet onion, and the salty meatiness of pancetta. My parents would make it for dinner on weeknights when they either didn’t have a lot of time to cook or when my mom hadn’t gone to the grocery store. In the time it takes to boil the water the sauce is finished. Perfect with bucatini, perciatelli, or spaghetti.
