Everyday Italian (12 page)
Authors: Giada De Laurentiis
CLASSIC SAUCES
Beyond the tomato-based sauces of southern Italy and the pestos of the north, Italians all over the Boot also use what many people think of as classic French sauces: béchamel, mushroom ragout, and brown butter. These are endlessly versatile recipes that can be used for pasta dressings, as condiments for meat and fish, and as components in other dishes. They’re not hard or time-consuming, and you’ll sound like a real pro when you’re explaining “Oh, the lasagna? That layer is béchamel …”
In case you were wondering (you’re probably not, actually, but I’m going to tell you anyway), this sauce is named after the Marquis de Béchamel. In Italian it’s called
balsamella
or
besciamella.
The original and full French version also involves steeping some onion and a bay leaf in milk for 30 minutes, to infuse the sauce with more flavor, but here’s an everyday approach. My simplified version is a snap to make and is perfect with my
Baked Rigatoni with Béchamel Sauce
. You could also use it the way you would hollandaise sauce.
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS
| 5 | tablespoons unsalted butter |
| ½ | cup all-purpose flour |
| 4 | cups warm whole milk |
| ½ | teaspoon salt, plus more to taste |
| Pinch of freshly ground white pepper, plus more to taste | |
| Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg, plus more to taste |
In a 2-Quart Saucepan,
melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk until smooth, about 2 minutes. Gradually add the warm milk, whisking constantly to prevent any lumps from forming. Simmer over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the sauce is thick, smooth, and creamy, about 10 minutes (do not allow the béchamel sauce to boil). Remove from the heat and stir in ½ teaspoon of salt and a pinch each of white pepper and nutmeg. Season the sauce with more salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste. (The sauce can be made up to 3 days ahead. Cool, then cover and refrigerate.)
If you love mushrooms, this sauce will hit the spot. You could use it as a topping for pastas, meats, and—my favorite—polenta. The secret to a rich, deeply flavorful sauce is to use a variety of mushrooms, preferably the wild varieties. I’m partial to cremini, oyster, and shiitake, but you could also add portobellos, hen-of-the-woods, chanterelles, or any other variety you find. The only ones I’d steer clear of are regular white button mushrooms. Their mild flavor will get lost amid the stronger tastes of the wild varieties, and their high water content will thin your sauce without providing much flavor.
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS; SERVES 4 OVER A POUND OF PASTA AS A FIRST COURSE
| ¼ | cup extra-virgin olive oil |
| 1 | large onion, chopped |
| 2 | garlic cloves, minced |
| 1 | pound mixed wild mushrooms (such as cremini, oyster, stemmed shiitake), chopped |
| ½ | teaspoon salt, plus more to taste |
| ¼ | teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste |
| 1 | cup Marsala |
| 2 | cups reduced-sodium chicken broth |
| ⅔ | cup grated Parmesan cheese |
| 5 | fresh basil leaves |
| ¼ | cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley |
In a Large Skillet,
heat the oil over a medium flame. When almost smoking, add the onion and garlic and sauté until the onion is tender, about 8 minutes. Add the mushrooms, ½ teaspoon of salt, and ¼ teaspoon of pepper. Increase the heat to high and sauté until the mushrooms are tender and all the liquid has evaporated, about 8 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and add the Marsala. Return the pan to the heat and simmer until the Marsala evaporates, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken broth and simmer until the sauce has reduced by half, about 30 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cheese, basil, and parsley. Season the ragù with more salt and pepper to taste. (The sauce can be made up to 2 days ahead. Cool, then cover and refrigerate. Rewarm before using.)
This is the easiest sauce you will ever make and a very tasty one, but then what doesn’t taste good when it’s drenched in butter? This is the perfect topping for stuffed pastas like ravioli, tortellini, and agnolloti.
MAKES ½ CUP; SERVES 4 WITH A POUND OF PASTA AS A FIRST COURSE
| ½ | cup (1 stick) unsalted butter |
| 6 | fresh sage leaves (torn into pieces) or ¼ cup fresh basil leaves |
| ½ | teaspoon salt, plus more to taste |
| ¼ | teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg |
| ⅓ | cup grated Parmesan cheese |
In a Large,
heavy frying pan, melt the butter over medium-high heat until pale golden, about 4 minutes. Add the sage or basil leaves and cook until crisp, about 2 minutes. Stir in ½ teaspoon of salt, ¼ teaspoon of pepper, and the nutmeg. Season the sauce with more salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese, and serve.
The
sage leaves
are more traditional in this sauce,
but I love the
basil
also. If neither of
these herbs works for you, feel free to substitute
your favorite herb.
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