How to Cook Indian (54 page)

Traditional Kashmiri cuisine veers heavily toward nonvegetarian dishes, so this light stir-fry of spinach comes as a surprise.
Ver
(page 33) is a special spice mix that is sold in a solid disk form. It can be used to make authentic Kashmiri food as well as to spice up regular
dal
or pulse dishes a little differently.

Serves 4.

4 medium bunches spinach, stemmed

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

½ teaspoon asafetida

2 teaspoons red chile powder

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons table salt

2 teaspoons
ver
(page 33)

1. Wash the spinach thoroughly under running water. Drain well in a colander. Finely chop and set aside.

2. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the cumin. When the cumin begins to change color, add the asafetida, chile powder, turmeric, spinach, salt, and 2 tablespoons water, and stir well.

3. Cook, uncovered, until all the water has evaporated and the oil comes to the top.

4. Sprinkle with the
ver
and serve hot.

Keerai Kozhambu

A spinach and
dal
curry

This dish, popular in the north as well as in the south, has many variations. The greens and lentils used change from cook to cook. What a delight it is to know that this healthy dish, when eaten with
roti
(page 18) or rice, makes a fairly balanced meal.

Serves 4.

1 medium bunch spinach or green amaranth leaves, stemmed

½ cup (100 grams)
masoor dal
(split red lentils)

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

3 cloves garlic, crushed

1/8 teaspoon asafetida

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1¾ teaspoons table salt

1 large red onion, diced

4 or 5 green chiles, stemmed and chopped

1 large tomato, chopped

3 tablespoons tamarind pulp

1 tablespoon coconut oil

¼ teaspoon brown mustard seeds

¼ teaspoon cumin seeds

¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

¼ teaspoon
dhuli urad dal
(split skinless black gram)

1 dried red chile, stemmed and broken in half

8 to 10 fresh curry leaves

1. Put the spinach in a colander and wash it 2 or 3 times under running water. Drain well, and chop it finely. Set aside in a bowl. Wash the
masoor dal
in running water and drain.

2. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add 2 cups (400 ml) water. When the water comes to a boil, add the
masoor dal,
turmeric, garlic, asafetida, ½ tablespoon of the vegetable oil, and ¼ teaspoon of the salt, and cook for 10 minutes or until the lentils are tender.

3. Place another nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the remaining 1½ tablespoons of vegetable oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the onion and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the green chiles, tomato, and spinach, and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tamarind pulp, the remaining 1½ teaspoons salt, and the cooked
dal,
and stir well. Add 1½ cups (300 ml) water, stir, and bring to a boil. Simmer for 8 to 10 minutes. In a small nonstick sauté pan, add the coconut oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the mustard seeds and cumin. When they sputter, add the fenugreek,
dhuli urad dal,
red chile, and curry leaves, and sauté for 30 seconds. Add this tempering to the
masoor dal
and stir well.

4. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve hot.

Makai Palak

A spectacular dish of spinach and fresh corn

My wife, Alyona, is a big fan of this spinach-and-corn dish, served with
rotis
(page 18) or
parathas
(page 18). In fact, she enjoys the leftovers on toast for breakfast!

Serves 4.

2 large bunches fresh spinach, chopped

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

2 medium red onions, chopped

1 tablespoon fresh garlic paste (page 12)

2 green chiles, stemmed and chopped

1-inch (2½-cm) piece ginger, julienned

½ teaspoon red chile powder

Pinch of ground turmeric

¾ teaspoon
amchur
(dried mango powder)

½ cup (75 grams) cooked corn kernels

1½ teaspoons table salt

½ cup (125 grams) plain yogurt, whisked

1 teaspoon
garam masala
(spice mix; page 27)

¼ teaspoon ground roasted
kasoori methi
(dried fenugreek leaves)

1. Place a nonstick saucepan over high heat and add 8 cups (1.6 liters) water. When it comes to a boil, add the spinach and blanch for 1 minute. Drain and refresh in cold water. Drain well in a colander. Transfer to a food processor and process to a purée. Transfer to a bowl.

2. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the onions and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes or until lightly browned. Add the garlic paste and stir. Add the chiles and ginger, and sauté until browned.

3. Add the chile powder, turmeric, and
amchur,
and stir. Add the spinach purée and stir well.

4. Add the corn and salt, and stir. Add the yogurt,
garam masala,
and
kasoori methi.
Stir and remove from the heat.

5. Serve hot.

Mooli Saag

White radish cooked with its leaves

When I was a child in Delhi, vegetable vendors would pile their carts high with glistening white radishes during the winter. My mother huddled in a warm shawl while picking up enough radishes to last the week. She made radish
parathas
and used the leaves to make a quick stir-fry similar to this one. Serve this with
parathas
(page 18).

Serves 4.

4 medium white daikon radishes with leaves

2 teaspoons table salt

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

½ teaspoon brown mustard seeds

½ teaspoon cumin seeds

Pinch of asafetida

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon red chile powder

1½ teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon
amchur
(dried mango powder)

1. Wash the radishes and tops well under running water. Drain well in a colander.

2. Peel and dice the radishes. Shred the leaves. Sprinkle the salt on the radishes and set aside for 20 minutes. Drain off the liquid.

3. Place a medium nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the mustard seeds. When they begin to sputter, add the cumin and asafetida, and sauté for 30 seconds. Add the turmeric and chile powder, and sauté for 10 seconds.

4. Add the radishes and leaves. Sauté for 1 minute. Add ¼ cup (50 ml) water, cover, and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes or until the radishes are tender.

5. Taste and add more salt if needed. Sprinkle with the sugar and
amchur,
and stir.

6. Serve hot.

Sai Bhaji

Sindhi greens and vegetables cooked with mild spices

Sai bhaji
is a popular vegetarian dish in Sindhi cuisine. The Sindhis originated from the province of Sindh, now in Pakistan, but they migrated to various states in India during Partition. A common Sindhi meal is
phulkas
(wheat-flour breads like
chapatis)
with
dal
and vegetables, either dry or with sauce. Serve this with steamed rice.

Serves 4.

½ cup (100 grams)
chana dal
(split Bengal gram)

¼ cup (50 ml) vegetable oil

2 teaspoons cumin seeds

1-inch (2½-cm) piece fresh ginger, chopped

5 cloves garlic, chopped

3 green chiles, stemmed and chopped

1 large red onion, roughly chopped

3 medium tomatoes, roughly chopped

3 small eggplants, cut into 8 pieces each

2 medium potatoes, cut into 1-inch (2½-cm) cubes

1½ teaspoons red chile powder

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 tablespoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons table salt

3 medium bunches fresh spinach, chopped

½ cup (50 grams) chopped fresh dill

1 cup (50 grams) chopped fresh sorrel

1 cup (50 grams) chopped
methi
(fresh fenugreek leaves)

1. Put the
dal
in a bowl, wash in plenty of water 2 or 3 times, and drain. Add 1 cup (200 ml) water and soak for 1 hour. Drain.

2. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the cumin and sauté for 30 seconds. Add the ginger and garlic, and sauté for 30 seconds. Add the chiles and sauté for 30 seconds.

3. Add the onion and sauté for 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and sauté for 5 minutes. Add the
dal
, eggplant, and potatoes, and stir. Add the chile powder, turmeric, coriander, and salt, and sauté for 5 minutes.

4. Add the spinach, dill, sorrel,
khatta bhani,
and
methi,
and sauté for 2 minutes. Add 2½ cups (500 ml) water and simmer for 40 minutes or until the
dal
is soft.