How to Cook Indian (58 page)

2 tablespoons ghee (page 37)

1 teaspoon cumin seeds 4 whole cloves

Pinch of asafetida

2 medium red onions, grated

½ teaspoon
garam masala
(spice mix; page 27)

1. Make the
gatta:
Stir together the
besan,
asafetida, turmeric, chile powder, salt, baking soda, ginger paste, yogurt, and mint in a bowl. Add ¼ cup (50 ml) water and stir to make a stiff dough.

2. Divide the dough into 4 portions. Apply ½ teaspoon oil to your palms and roll each portion into a 6-inch-long (15-cm-long) cylinder.

3. Place a nonstick saucepan over high heat, add 2 cups (400 ml) water, and bring to a boil. Lower the dough cylinders into the water, lower the heat to medium, and cook for 10 to 15 minutes. Drain in a large colander set over a large bowl; reserve the water. Let the dumplings cool slightly, then cut into ½-inch-long (1-cm-long) pieces (the
gatta)
.

4. Place a nonstick wok over high heat and add 1 quart (800 ml) oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the wok, lower the heat to medium and gently slide in the
gatta.
Fry until golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Set aside.

5. Make the sauce: Whisk the yogurt, chile powder, coriander, turmeric,
besan,
and salt together.

6. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the ghee. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the cumin, cloves, and asafetida. Cook until the cumin starts to change color. Add the onions and cook over high heat for 3 to 4 minutes or until the onions are light golden.

7. Lower the heat to low, add the yogurt mixture, and cook for 5 minutes.

8. Add the
gatta
and the reserved cooking water. Cook over low heat for 7 minutes or until the sauce is thick. Add the
garam masala
and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

9. Serve hot.

Jhinge Posto

Ridged gourd cooked in a poppy-seed
masala

Bengalis use poppy seeds extensively. The seeds are usually soaked and then ground into a milky paste that helps thicken curries. Traditionally, the seeds are ground in a stone mortar with a pestle, but in the modern kitchen electric grinders are the norm.

Serves 4.

2 tablespoons white poppy seeds

3 green chiles, stemmed and chopped

¾ teaspoon table salt

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 whole cloves

2 medium red onions, diced

14 ounces (400 grams) ridged gourd (see Note), cut into 1-inch (2½-cm) cubes

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1. Soak the poppy seeds in ½ cup (100 ml) water for 30 minutes. Drain and place in a spice grinder with the chiles and ¼ teaspoon of the salt, and grind to a smooth paste without adding any water. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside.

2. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the cloves and onions, and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes or until the onions are golden brown.

3. Add the ridged gourd and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the turmeric and stir. Add the poppy seed paste and remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and stir. Cover and cook for 10 to 15 minutes or until the ridged gourd is tender.

4. Serve hot as a side dish.

Ridged gourd is also known as
loofah, luffa, tori, turiy,
and
turai.
It is believed to have originated in the Arabic deserts. It is dark green and ridged and has a white pulp with white seeds. There is no substitute for ridged gourd in this dish.

Kaalan

Yams, green bananas, and ash gourd

This is a vegetarian favorite from Kerala, whose cuisine is known for its yogurt curries and use of tubers. If you want, you can substitute vegetable oil for the coconut oil.

Serves 4.

11 ounces (300 grams) yams, peeled and cut into ½-inch (1-cm) fingers

2 medium green bananas, peeled and cut into ½-inch (1-cm) fingers

9 ounces (250 grams) white pumpkin (see Note), peeled and cut into ½-inch (1-cm) fingers

1 cup (120 grams) grated fresh coconut (or frozen unsweetened coconut)

2 teaspoons cumin seeds

8 to 10 whole black peppercorns

4 green chiles, stemmed

2 teaspoons table salt

½ teaspoon ground turmeric (optional)

1 cup (250 grams) plain yogurt, whisked

2 tablespoons coconut oil

1 teaspoon brown mustard seeds

¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

2 dried red chiles, stemmed and broken

10 to 12 fresh curry leaves

1. Wash the yams, bananas, and ash gourd well under running water and drain in a colander.

2. Put the coconut, 1 teaspoon of the cumin, the peppercorns, and green chiles in a mini food processor with ¼ cup (50 ml) water, and process to a smooth paste.

3. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add 2 cups (400 ml) water. Add the salt and turmeric, and bring to a boil. Add the vegetables and cook for 3 minutes or until half cooked. Add the yogurt and stir well. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to medium, and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the coconut paste, stir well, and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.

4. Place a small nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the coconut oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the mustard seeds, fenugreek, and the remaining 1 teaspoon cumin. When the seeds sputter, add the red chiles and curry leaves and add this tempering to the vegetables. Cover immediately to trap the aroma. Serve hot.

White pumpkin is also known as ash gourd or winter melon. It is grown for its very large fruit. The mature melon has a thick, sweet flesh. In North India it is used to make a dessert called
petha.

Kaikari Ishtew

Mixed vegetables stewed in coconut milk with star anise

A traditional delight from the South Indian state of Kerala, this vegetable dish is traditionally served with a soft bread called
appam
(page 14). This is a real treat for coconut lovers. Be sure to use the star anise because without it,
ishtew
is simply not
ishtew.

Serves 4.

1 medium carrot, cubed

1 medium potato, cubed

7 or 8 cauliflower florets

6 to 8 haricots verts, cut into 1-inch (2½-cm) pieces

2 tablespoons coconut oil

2 bay leaves

2 (1-inch/2½-cm) cinnamon sticks

4 whole cloves

2 star anise

10 to 12 fresh curry leaves

4 green chiles, stemmed and slit

2 medium red onions, chopped

1 teaspoon fresh ginger paste (page 12)

1 teaspoon fresh garlic paste (page 12)

2 cups (400 ml) coconut milk

1 teaspoon table salt

Pinch of
garam masala
(spice mix; page 27)

1. Place a nonstick saucepan over high heat and add 2½ cups (500 ml) water. When the water comes to a boil, add the carrot and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Repeat with the potato, cauliflower, and haricots verts separately.

2. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the coconut oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the bay leaves, cinnamon, cloves, star anise, curry leaves, chiles, and onions. Sauté for 2 minutes or until the onions are translucent.

3. Add the ginger paste and garlic paste, and stir. Cook for 1 minute.

4. Add the carrot, potato, cauliflower, and coconut milk. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the salt and haricots verts, and stir. Lower the heat to low and cook for 4 to 5 minutes or until the haricots verts are tender.

5. Stir in the
garam masala.
Immediately remove from the heat and serve hot.

Karela Andhra Style

Sweet, sour, and spicy bitter gourd

Generally, if you see the word
andhra
in the name of a dish, you can expect it to be sweet and sour with the flavor of an oil seed—in this case, sesame. Bitter gourd is widely used in Indian kitchens, and recipes for it vary from state to state. In fact, the bitterness is enjoyed to the hilt in the northern part of the country, where bitter gourds are cooked without the addition of sugar or jaggery.

Serves 4.

5 medium bitter gourds

1 teaspoon table salt

1-inch (2½-cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled

5 cloves garlic

4 dried red chiles, stemmed

1 tablespoon coriander seeds