How to Cook Indian (83 page)

7. Transfer to a serving dish, garnish with the cilantro, and serve immediately.

Lagan Ka Kheema

A ground lamb or goat dish served during weddings

The Parsi community is small in India, but their cuisine has some big stories to tell. The multicourse formal dinners at weddings feature
saas ni machchi
(pomfret in sweet-and-sour sauce) or the famous banana leaf–wrapped fish called
patrani machchi,
along with this festive ground-lamb dish smoked with charcoal, a kebab-studded goat
pulao,
and a thick
dal.
The meal would end with
kulfi
or
lagan nu
custard (a close cousin of crème caramel).

Serves 4.

1 quart (800 ml) vegetable oil

4 medium red onions, sliced

2 tablespoons white poppy seeds

2 tablespoons
chironji/charoli
(melon seeds)

¼ cup grated dried coconut

15 whole cloves

2 (1-inch/2½-cm) cinnamon sticks

8 green cardamom pods

4 black cardamom pods

8 to 10 saffron threads

2 tablespoons warm milk

¼ cup (50 grams) ghee (page 37)

1½ teaspoons caraway seeds

2 tablespoons fresh ginger paste (page 12)

2 tablespoons fresh garlic paste (page 12)

4 teaspoons ground coriander

1½ teaspoons ground roasted cumin (page 32)

1 tablespoon red chile powder

1 pound (500 grams) ground lamb or goat

1¼ teaspoons table salt

1 cup (250 grams) plain yogurt, whisked

¼ cup (15 grams) chopped fresh cilantro

¼ cup (15 grams) chopped fresh mint, plus 2 sprigs for garnish

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 onion skin

1 lemon, cut into wedges

1. Place a nonstick wok over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the wok, add the onions and cook, stirring with a slotted spoon, for 7 to 8 minutes or until they are golden and crisp. Remove with the slotted spoon, drain on paper towels, and set aside to cool completely.

2. Transfer to a food processor and process into a smooth paste. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside.

3. Place a small nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the poppy seeds, melon seeds, and coconut, and dry-roast until lightly browned. Transfer to a plate and set aside to cool completely. Transfer to a spice grinder, add ¼ cup (50 ml) water, and grind to a smooth paste.

4. Return the pan to medium heat, add 5 of the cloves, the cinnamon, green cardamom, and black cardamom, and dry-roast until lightly colored. Transfer to a plate and set aside to cool completely. Transfer to a spice grinder and grind to a fine powder.

5. Combine the saffron with the warm milk in a small bowl.

6. Place a heavy-bottomed nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add 3 tablespoons of the ghee. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the caraway seeds, ginger paste, and garlic paste, and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes or until the raw flavors disappear. Add the browned onion paste and sauté for 1 minute.

7. Add the coriander, cumin, and chile powder, and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes.

8. Add the meat and sauté over low heat, stirring continuously. Add the poppy seed paste. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes. Add the salt and stir.

9. Add the yogurt and simmer for 4 to 5 minutes. Add the cilantro and chopped mint, stir, and cook for 2 minutes. Add 1 cup (200 ml) water and cook for 30 minutes.

10. Add the roasted spice powder and stir well. Add the lemon juice and stir. Check for seasoning and remove from the heat.

11. Push the meat to the sides of the pan and make a hollow in the center. Place an onion skin in the center like a bowl. Hold a piece of natural charcoal with tongs and heat it over an open flame until red hot. Place the hot charcoal in the onion skin. Pour the remaining 1 tablespoon ghee over the charcoal and place the remaining 10 cloves over it. Cover immediately and set aside for 5 minutes so that the flavors are well absorbed. Uncover, remove the onion skin and charcoal, and transfer the meat to a serving dish.

12. Garnish with mint sprigs and lemon, and serve hot.

Maamsam Koora

Lamb with peppercorns

This Andhra-style curry has to be one of the greatest lamb curries ever. It has the perfect blend of spices, and despite the quantity of black pepper used, it is not too spicy.

Serves 4.

14 ounces (400 grams) boneless lamb, cubed

2 teaspoons table salt

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon poppy seeds

½ teaspoon fennel seeds

4 whole black peppercorns

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1-inch (2½-cm) cinnamon stick

2 whole cloves

2 green cardamom pods

¼ cup (50 ml) vegetable oil

10 fresh curry leaves

3 medium red onions, chopped

1 teaspoon fresh ginger-garlic paste (page 13)

½ teaspoon red chile powder

2 teaspoons ground black pepper

1 large tomato, chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Place a nonstick saucepan over high heat. Add the lamb and 3 cups (600 ml) water, 1 teaspoon of the salt, and the turmeric. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to low, cover, and cook for about 45 minutes. Drain in a colander set over a large bowl; reserve the stock.

2. Place a small nonstick sauté pan over medium heat. Add the poppy seeds, fennel, peppercorns, coriander, cumin, cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom and dry-roast for 2 to 3 minutes or until fragrant. Set aside to cool. Transfer to a spice grinder and grind to a fine powder. Set aside.

3. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the curry leaves and onions. Sauté until the onions are browned. Add the ginger-garlic paste, chile powder, and 1 teaspoon of the ground black pepper, and sauté for 1 minute.

4. Add the tomato and the lamb, increase the heat to high, and cook for 5 minutes or until the tomato is soft.

5. Lower the heat to medium, add the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and the ground spices, and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the reserved stock and 1½ cups (300 ml) water and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes or until the lamb is well coated with thick sauce.

6. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon ground black pepper and stir well.

7. Transfer to a serving dish, garnish with the cilantro, and serve hot.

Malvani Lamb

Lamb or goat dish with roasted spices

Malvani food uses the roasting of spices to good effect. Roasting not only releases the aromatic oils in the spices but also gives a well-rounded finish to the sauce. This dish is full flavored and goes well with steamed rice.

Serves 4.

1¾ pounds (800 grams) bone-in lamb or goat, cut into 1-inch (2½-cm) cubes

1½ teaspoons table salt

1½ tablespoons fresh ginger paste (page 12)

1½ tablespoons fresh garlic paste (page 12)

12 dried red chiles, stemmed and broken in half

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

6 to 8 whole cloves

7 or 8 whole black peppercorns

¾ teaspoon cumin seeds

¾ teaspoon caraway seeds

6 green cardamom pods

4 black cardamom pods

¾ cup (60 grams) grated dried coconut

1½ teaspoons white poppy seeds

5 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 medium red onions, thinly sliced

¾ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Put the meat in a bowl, add the salt, ginger paste, and garlic paste, and combine well. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and put in the refrigerator to marinate for 30 minutes.

2. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and roast, one at a time, the chiles, coriander seeds, cloves, peppercorns, cumin, caraway, green and black cardamom, coconut, and poppy seeds. Transfer to a plate and set aside to cool completely. Transfer to a spice grinder and grind to a fine powder.

3. Place a heavy-bottomed nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the onions and sauté for 5 minutes or until light golden brown.

4. Add the meat and turmeric, and sauté for 15 minutes. Add 5 cups (1 liter) water and stir. Cover and cook over low heat for 50 minutes or until the meat is tender.

5. Add the ground spices and stir well. Add ½ cup (100 ml) water and simmer for 5 minutes.

6. Garnish with the cilantro and serve hot.

Mangshor Curry

Bengali lamb curry

While Bengalis are known for their amazing fish curries, their lamb curries are excellent too. This recipe uses only the basic ingredients, but the result is wholesome and steeped in flavor. Serve with
luchi
(page 19) or steamed rice.

Serves 4.

14 ounces (400 grams) bone-in lamb, cut into 1-inch (2½-cm) pieces

2 teaspoons fresh ginger paste (page 12)

1½ teaspoons fresh garlic paste (page 12)

1½ teaspoons red chile powder

1 teaspoon ground roasted cumin (page 32)

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon table salt

6 tablespoons vegetable oil

5 medium potatoes, cut into 1-inch (2½-cm) cubes

2 bay leaves