In Search of the Perfect Loaf: A Home Baker's Odyssey (41 page)

and white bread, 138–39

See also
Boulangerie Delmontel

pâte fermentée
(fermented dough), 73–74

paysannes boulangers
, 228–29

peels, 40, 42, 46, 94–95, 97, 129, 238, 271

Peemoeller, Harry, 98

Petaluma, California, 93–94, 107

Picardy, France, 44–45

Pichard, Frédéric, 42–49, 113, 259

pistors
, 134–37, 142

pizza dough, 16, 103–4, 147, 261–62

Pliny the Elder, 73–74, 87, 134, 137

Poilâne, Apollonia, 41–42

Poilâne, Lionel, 32–33, 36, 41–42, 48, 67

Point Reyes Station, California, 108–9, 111–12

Poland, 11, 158, 193

Ponsford, Craig, 246

poolish technique, 54, 271

population growth, 169–70, 173

Portland, Oregon, 2, 92, 117, 246, 258

Portuguese
broa de milho
, 132

pre-ferment, 54, 208, 267, 271

pretzels, 16, 104

Prix de la Meilleure Baguette de Paris, 21

proofing, 100, 119, 271–72

Prueitt, Elisabeth, 108, 112

pumpernickel, 4

railroad, 157, 159, 160

Ramsay, Gordon, 95

recipes, 10, 13–14, 53–54, 140

for baguettes, 20, 49–50, 55–65

for flatbread, 149–54

introduction to, 15–17

Pain Nature
, 253–57

Roggenweizenbrot
, 214–15, 220–24

for sourdough, 86–89, 112

Stirato
, 55–60

Turkey Red
Miche
, 187–91

Red Hen Baking Co., 165, 250

red spring wheat, 250, 269

red winter wheat, 16, 49, 127–28, 143, 149, 155, 157–59, 186, 244, 269–70

Reinhart, Peter, 117, 208, 247

Réseau Semences Paysannes, 228

resting (
autolyse
) method.
See
autolyse
method

rising, of dough, 102, 158, 218, 237

and carbon dioxide gas, 44, 76, 79, 207–8

in
couche
(linen cloth), 21, 95–96, 238, 268

different stages of, 269, 271

and elasticity, 116

and flavor, 55, 76, 118

in refrigerator, 39–40, 49, 51–52, 111–12, 119

and rye, 200–1

time needed for, 16, 35, 55, 100

and whole grains, 251

and yeast/bacteria, 29–30

Roberts, Glenn, 232, 254

Roberts, Mariah, 140

Robertson, Chad, 91, 108–15, 215, 247–48, 259

Rogosa, Eli, 177–83, 244, 252

Rome, 11, 73, 132, 134, 137, 142, 147, 272

Roshi, Suzuki, 233–34

Ross, Andrew, 74

Russia, 4, 133, 147, 169

rye, 29, 128, 133, 186, 259–60

and Backferment, 127, 198, 205, 214, 217

characteristics of, 193

early use of, 11, 131–32, 137–40, 143–45, 272

flour, 71–72

as food staple, 177, 193

hydration of, 207

Jewish, 4, 6, 27, 137, 140, 192–94

locally grown, 241–43, 247–48

made at home, 217–19

made in Berlin, 194–95, 197–209, 214–16

milling of, 197, 205, 209, 214–15, 217, 220

mixed with wheat, 117, 193, 202, 205, 217, 220

nutritional value of, 197

pentosan in, 207–8, 271–72

and seed vault, 172

and sourdough, 66, 80–82, 85–86, 193, 205, 208, 217–18, 220

toppings on, 192, 194, 198, 201–2

Saccharomyces cerevisiae
, 74, 76–77

Saibron, Dominique, 49

salt, 31, 267

in American bread, 46, 54, 93

in French bread, 46, 48

reduction in, 45–46, 48, 112–13, 231

San Francisco area, 81, 84, 91–94, 108–9, 215, 247–48

San Francisco Baking Institute, 91, 94

San Rafael, California, 246

Sardinia, 132

Scandinavia, 11, 133

Schmidt, Klaus, 145

Scotland, 132, 158

Scott, Alan, 93, 109

sesame seeds, 3, 6, 127, 202

Seaver, Barton, 90

seeds, 142, 159, 163

banks of, 170–72, 181, 227

breeding of, 158, 177–82

components of, 75, 272–73

diversity of, 130–31, 172–73, 183

and flour, 157, 186

grinding/milling of, 136

planting of, 130–31, 141–43, 145, 155, 183–86, 227–28, 243–44, 252

selection/propagation of, 148, 155–56, 173, 182

sharing of, 145, 228

See also
specific types

Sekowa, 205, 267

shaping, 20, 44, 49, 52, 110, 119

of baguettes, 30, 40, 55, 60

by braiding, 202, 216

and cold dough, 120

done quickly, 94, 96

folding method of, 114–16, 129, 218, 238

by hand, 40–41, 157, 199–202, 237–38

mechanically, 31–32, 69

minimally, 237–38, 249–50

of rye loaves, 199–202

with wooden tool, 237–38

Shepard’s Grain flour, 246

Silverton, Nancy, 69–71, 73, 85, 91

slashes (
grignes
), 19, 31, 40, 48–49, 51–52, 92, 97, 111, 116, 233, 238, 250, 269

social stratification, 137–39

Somerset Grist Mill, 246

Sonoma, California, 91, 98–100

sourdough bread, 50, 67–68, 92–94, 96, 210–14, 253

sourdough starter, 33, 70, 251

feeding of, 9, 29, 68, 71, 81–86, 117–18, 205

and flavor, 45, 66, 79, 81–82, 112, 166, 260

history of, 73–74

myths about, 81–84

organisms in, 66–69, 71–72, 74, 79–84, 86, 210–14, 220, 270

purpose of, 16, 66, 272

types of yeast in, 68–69, 77

and whole grain bread, 38, 208–9, 249

“young,” 112

sourdough waffles, 155–56

South Africa, 80–81

South Carolina, 231–32, 246, 253

Speck, Maria, 247

spelt, 73, 133, 155, 186, 235

and artisan breads, 140–41, 149, 247, 258

early use of, 11, 140, 142–43, 272

and flavor, 147–48

and gluten sensitivity, 176

grinding/milling of, 134–35, 142, 269

protein in, 104, 272

storing of, 127

See also
freekeh (smoked spelt)

spelt berries, 128, 135

starch gelatinization, 207–8

starters, 70–71, 85, 91, 112–13, 118, 127, 165, 198, 205, 212–14, 217, 267.
See also
levain (sourdough); sourdough starter

Steffelbauer, Karl, 200–7, 209, 216–18

Suas, Michel, 91, 94

subsistence, 133.
See also
sustenance

sugar, 35, 44, 72, 74–77, 79, 81, 86–87, 119, 127, 210

Sullivan, Steve, 91

Sullivan Street Bakery, 83

supermarkets

and French bread, 32–33, 35–36

and packaged flour, 164, 186, 247

and par-baked bread, 32, 36

and whole grain bread, 186

sustenance, 4, 6, 8, 11, 28–29, 131, 133, 137–40, 144, 215.
See also
food

Svalbard Global Seed Vault, 172

Swanson, Heidi, 247

Sweden, 115, 127, 132

Sweet Life in Paris
,
The
(Lebovitz), 153

Syria, 141, 144, 268

Taiwan, 107

Tartine, 91, 108–16, 119, 215, 248

Tartine Bread
(Robertson), 112, 114

taste.
See
flavor

temperature, 16

as important variable, 100

needed for fermentation, 87, 112

needed for rising, 16, 119

and professional ovens, 111

Terre Madre, 233–36

Thomet, Heinz, 240–52

time, as ingredient/tool, 19, 21–22, 32, 35, 68, 100, 102, 104

Torres, Azelia, 227

trade shows, 32, 34–35, 98–99, 106–7, 162