In Search of the Perfect Loaf: A Home Baker's Odyssey (39 page)

Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie, 98, 106–7

crumb, 54, 66, 97, 268

airy, 35, 55, 113, 116, 165

of baguettes, 19, 35, 38, 48, 52–55, 60

and fermentation, 30, 209

holes in, 19, 35, 104, 111, 238, 267

and lactic acid, 79

in rye bread, 193, 208, 218

in wheat bread, 208, 250

crust

of baguettes, 19–20, 26, 30–31, 35, 52–53, 60

and fermentation, 30, 111

flavor of, 53

and lactic acid, 79

and oven type, 30, 97, 98

in rye bread, 193

and sourdough, 66

and sugar, 35

wrapped up, 129

Cucugnan, France, 225–29, 238, 259

Cyprus, 132, 143

Danish
Rugbrød
, 215

Darby, Heather, 245

Dean & DeLuca, 133

Della Fattoria, 93–98, 110–11

Delmontel, Arnaud, 21–22, 36–38, 44, 50, 239–40.
See also
Boulangerie Delmontel

Delmontel, Valérie, 40

Denzer, Kiko, 261

diversity, 83, 140, 148

and flour qualities, 186

genetic, 76, 170–71, 173, 182

of grains, 127–34, 141, 145, 177, 259

importance of, 133

increase in, 172, 259

lack of, 171, 173–74, 177, 186, 259

plant, 168, 171, 179

dough

elasticity of, 102–4, 114, 116, 118, 147, 174, 194, 207, 236, 268, 272

extensibility of, 103, 165, 174, 236, 249, 267, 269

frozen, 32, 36, 69–70

hydration of, 16, 22, 49, 55, 84, 112–14, 121–22, 129, 153, 207, 223, 236, 270

oxidized, 31–32, 40, 249, 271

par-baked, 32, 69

refrigeration of, 44, 51, 119, 153

and sense of touch, 13, 104, 113–14, 260

tolerance of, 103

and “windowpane test,” 118, 237

Du Pain et Des Idées, 41

Durham, North Carolina, 94

durum wheat, 127, 146–47, 171–72, 174–75, 268

East Africa, 173

East Coast, 159, 244–46, 251

ecology, 74, 79, 81, 84–85, 91, 98, 113, 211–12

Egypt, 67, 136, 146, 163, 270

Eimer, Dirk, 198–99

einkorn wheat, 140, 143–46, 173–77, 179, 186, 268–69, 271

emmer wheat, 128, 140, 143, 146–47, 149–51, 171–72, 176, 186, 215, 268, 270

England, 11, 95, 227

enzymes, 72, 75–77, 86, 127, 138, 177, 205, 208–9, 267–68

Ethiopia, 11, 175, 181

EuroPain trade show, 32, 34–35, 106–7

Europe, 8, 67

competitions in, 107

and bread consistency, 116

and coarse loaves, 137–38

and grains, 131–32, 157

and high-extraction flour, 164

and mad-cow scares, 36

and rye, 192–93, 195, 272

and seed diversity, 171

and wheat, 11, 145–47, 175, 179, 268

European-style loaves, 215

famine/hunger, 132–34, 161, 169–70, 185

farmers’ markets, 94, 99, 105–7, 168, 216, 218, 246–48

farming

biodynamic, 197, 244

of grains, 128, 130–31, 142–46, 148, 155, 157

organic, 166–68, 181, 184–85, 197, 228–29, 235–36, 240–48

personal connection to, 167–68, 228–29, 246

of wheat, 155–62, 168–73, 177, 179, 181–85, 227–28, 234–36, 240–46, 251–52, 259

farro, 242

fava bean flour, 31, 132

Fedco seed cooperative, 180

Feillet, Loic, 53

fermentation, 9, 13, 20, 22, 251

age-old techniques of, 33, 78–79

and Backferment, 205, 267

and carbon dioxide gas, 207–8

and dough flavor, 45, 82

history of, 73–77

and industrial breads, 213

and
levain
/sourdough, 16, 29, 66, 68–73, 82, 86, 92, 177, 209, 213–14, 220, 272

long period of, 92, 111–12, 134, 209, 252, 259

process of, 16, 43–45, 48, 75–76, 260

and refrigeration, 119, 272

and rye, 205, 218

stimulation of, 29–30, 50, 72, 127

Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, 94

Fertile Crescent, 141–45, 147–49, 157, 252, 267–68

Feuillas, Maryse, 232

Feuillas, Roland, 55, 225, 227–40, 248, 252–54, 259

Feuillas, Valérie, 225, 227, 230

Field, Carol, 93

Fife, David and Jane, 158

flatbread, 15, 129–30, 132, 149, 153–54

flavor, 35, 42, 118, 260

of baguettes, 38, 40, 50, 53–55

and blended flours, 101, 146

and fermentation, 76, 82, 112, 214

flavor (
cont.
)

and flour type, 81, 134, 138, 147–48, 153, 158, 198, 233, 254

of grains, 24, 130, 134, 248

lack of, 31, 45, 128, 214

and lactic acid, 79, 86, 270

and
levain
, 111, 231

and
pâte fermentée
, 74

of rye, 194, 202, 217

and salt, 45–46, 54

and sourdough, 66, 72, 81–82

and water, 231

of wheat, 44, 46, 146, 155, 165, 253, 273

and wood-fired ovens, 47, 97–98

flax/flaxseeds, 3, 127, 135, 145, 258

flour, 128–29, 252, 260

and additives, 31, 33–36, 104

all-purpose, 16, 104, 158

American, 39, 49–50

blending of, 100–1, 104, 113, 117, 148, 150, 155, 165, 249, 251

“bread flour,” 16, 103–4

in French breads, 20, 22, 24, 29, 33–36, 44–45, 49–50

grades of, 137

high-extraction, 164

history of, 11, 132, 136, 138–39

and leftover bread, 132, 202

local, 44–45, 246–51

making of, 134–37

nutritional value of, 231

protein in, 22, 39, 49, 52, 54, 103–4, 131, 136, 139, 158, 254

refined, 30, 132, 251

seasonal changes in, 113

on shaping surface, 114–16, 199–200, 237–38

sifted/bolted, 100–1, 136–38, 163–65, 187, 230–32, 253, 268

storing of, 127, 254

See also
milling;
specific grains

food, 2, 36

chain, 167

and fermentation, 73, 77, 211

local, 14, 90–91, 145

prices of, 246

shortages of, 132, 139, 143, 148, 169, 185

supply of, 133, 144, 168–73, 177

and sustained energy, 215

See also
sustenance

Food and Drug Administration, 186

France, 35, 139, 179, 183–84, 219, 225–38, 248, 253.
See also
French bread;
specific cities, towns

free-threshing wheat, 142, 269

freekeh (smoked spelt), 128, 143, 149

French bread

amount of salt in, 45–46

cultural history of, 18–19, 28–33, 36

declines in quality, 26, 28–34, 43, 52

early history of, 132–33, 138–39

and einkorn flour, 145–46

historian of, 27–28

industrialization of, 31–36

as national symbol, 2, 26–27, 32, 43

and
pain d’égalité
, 139

and
petit épeautre
, 146

resurrection of, 2, 8, 28, 33

See also
Paris, France;
specific types
; supermarkets

French Laundry Kitchen, 13

French Mediterranean flour, 231, 247, 253–55

FreshFarm Market, 240

fruit flies, 80–81

Furstenberg, Mark, 7, 51, 53

Gadouas, Jeremey, 98

Gänzle, Michael, 80–81, 209

gatherers, 141–42, 144, 184

George, Randy, 165, 250–51

German Detmolder rye , 82

Germany, 11, 161, 179, 183, 195, 203, 205, 244, 252, 267.
See also
Berlin, Germany

Ginsberg, Stanley, 193

gluten, 9–10, 44, 113, 269

and
autolyse
method, 29, 39