Authors: Paul Burrell

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In The Royal Manner (10 page)

BOOK: In The Royal Manner

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MOTHERING SUNDAY

The fourth Sunday in Lent is said to have derived its name from the practice of visiting cathedrals or other ‘mother’ churches on this day or, more likely, from its proximity to 25 March or Lady Day, the day commemorating the Mother of God. On this day children who were living away from home would go back to visit their family. The custom we now associate with Mother's Day evolved from an intertwining of the original custom and an American celebration. In 1907, Anna Jarvis of Philadelphia created an anniversary to commemorate the death of her mother, which had taken place on the second Sunday in May. It is said that the GIs who came over to Britain in their thousands during the Second World War were homesick for ‘Mom’ and so brought their custom with them. If this is true, the May date was abandoned, and the British custom, commercialized as it has become, continues to be associated with the religious mid-Lent date.

JAM PENNIES

A simple, fun idea for Easter tea. These bite-sized jam sandwiches have been served at teatime in the Royal Household for generations, and are especially popular in the nursery.

Serves: 6

Preparation time: 10 minutes

No cooking

12 slices white or brown bread, cut thinly from a large square

sandwich loaf

50g/2oz butter, softened

175g/6oz strawberry jam, sieved

1.
Cut off the crusts from the bread, then lightly spread each slice with butter. Spread six slices with jam, and then sandwich together with remaining buttered bread. Press down lightly to seal.

2.
Using a 5cm/2in plain round pastry cutter, stamp out 4 circles from each sandwich – the trimmings can be used in bread and butter pudding. Arrange on serving plate and serve as soon as possible to enjoy their freshness.

In 1982, Britain's largest-ever chocolate egg was made – it weighed 7,561 lbs and was 10 feet high.

CUCUMBER SANDWICHES

No English tea would be complete without these fresh-tasting sandwiches.

Serves: 6

Preparation time: 12 minutes

No cooking

12 slices white or brown bread, cut thinly from a large square

sandwich loaf

50g/2oz butter, softened

175g/6oz cucumber, very thinly sliced

Salt and pepper

1.
Cut off the crusts from the bread, then lightly spread each slice with butter. Arrange six slices with a few pieces of cucumber, and season.

2.
Sandwich together with remaining buttered bread and press down lightly to seal. Cut into 4 squares and then slice off the corners from each to make a slightly octagonal shape. Place on a serving plate and serve as soon as possible to enjoy their freshness.

Tradition has it that if Hot Cross Buns were given to sailors, they would keep them safe from shipwreck (which may stem from the story on page 44). If kept in a house they would preserve it from fire – no small wonder as houses used to be made from timber, wattle and daub.

MINI SCOTCH EGGS

Makes: 12

Preparation time: 25 minutes plus cooling

Cooking time: approx. 10 minutes

1 dozen quails eggs

225g/8oz good quality sausage meat

2 tsp Worcestershire sauce

1 tbsp Freshly chopped chives

1 tbsp plain flour

1 medium egg, beaten

75g/3oz dry breadcrumbs

Oil for deep frying

1.
Place the eggs in a saucepan, cover with water, bring to a boil and cook for 3 minutes. Drain well and rinse under cold water to cool. Gentry peel away the shell and allow to cool completely.

2.
Mix the sausage meat with the Worcestershire sauce and chopped chives. Toss the eggs in the flour. Divide the sausage meat into 12 equal portions and flatten into a round big enough to hold one of the eggs – you may find it easier to handle if you flour your hands. Work the sausage meat around the eggs to cover completely. Form into a smooth round, making sure there are no cracks.

3.
Brush with beaten egg and toss in the breadcrumbs. Heat the oil for deep frying to 190°C/375°F or until a cube of bread browns in 40 seconds. Fry the eggs in the oil for 4 – 5 minutes until golden and crisp. Drain and serve hot or cold.

Cook's note:
as the sausage meat is raw, it is very important that the oil is the correct temperature. If it is too hot the eggs will look cooked, but the sausage meat is likely to be underdone.

SHROVE TUESDAY CREPES

Serve these thin, buttery pancakes simply with lemon juice and sugar. As a child I remember them being served with freshly squeezed orange juice, which appealed to my sweet tooth.

Makes: 15

Preparation time: 15 minutes plus standing

Cooking time: approx. 50 minutes

100g/4oz plain flour

Pinch of salt

2 medium eggs, beaten

300 ml/l pt milk

15g/loz butter, melted

Extra butter for frying

Wedges of lemon and caster sugar to serve

1.
Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl and make a well in the centre. Add the eggs and half the milk and gradually incorporate the flour with the liquid. Whisk in the remaining milk lo form a smooth batter, the consistency of thick cream. Allow to stand for 1 hour.

2.
Re-whisk the batter and drizzle in the melted butter. Transfer to a pouring jug.

3.
Heat a 12cm/5in crÊpe pan until hot, carefully wipe with a little butter and pour in about 2 tbsp batter. Swirl it around the pan until it is spread evenly over the bottom in a thin layer.

4.
Cook for 1 – 2 minutes until set, loosen the edges with a palette knife, and turn the crÊpe over. Alternatively, with a flick of the wrist, toss the crÊpe in the air and catch it uncooked side down. Cook for another minute.

5.
Slide the crÊpe on to a warm plate and repeat with remaining batter. Keep the cooked crÊpes warm, stacking them between layers of greaseproof paper.

6.
Serve the crÊpes warm, rolled or folded with wedges of lemon lo squeeze over, and sugar for dredging.

SHROVE TUESDAY

The day before the beginning of Lent, Shrove Tuesday heralds the start of a forty-day period of fasting for many Christians. It is the time for all good Christians to confess their sins. A bell, the Pancake Bell, was rung on Tuesday to remind them to come forward to be ‘shriven’, hence the name Shrove Tuesday.

Originally pancakes came from a combination of ingredients taken from the larder which would not be used during Lent—it would be a personal sacrifice to forgo fat, flour, milk and sugar for this time, as well as meat and eggs. The mixture was made up very quickly to form a batter that would make the last tilling repast before a period of abstinence. The end of Lent is on Easter Sunday.

SPRING FAMILY LUNCH

Revive the dying tradition of a ‘Sunday Roast’ and enjoy this delicious menu with your family at any time of the year.

CROWN ROAST
OF
LAMB WITH LEEK
AND
ROSEMARY STUFFING
AND
MINT SAUCE

Roost lamb is a popular Easter meal, and one which, to many, represents Christ's innocence and sacrifice. Complemented with redcurrant jelly and homemade mint sauce and roasted with rosemary, it is a delicious favourite to enjoy.

Serves: 6

Preparation time: 25 minutes plus standing

Cooking time: approx, 1 hour 15 minutes

2 best ends of neck of lamb, prepared, or a prepared crown

FOR THE STUFFING

25g/loz butter

1 tbsp olive oil

1 large leek, trimmed and shredded

2 tbsp freshly chopped rosemary

75g/3oz fresh white breadcrumbs

Salt and ground black pepper

1 medium egg yolk

Fresh rosemary and blanched leek strips to garnish

FOR THE MINT SAUCE

A bunch of fresh mint

150 ml/¼ pt white wine vinegar

4 tbsp caster sugar

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas 4

1.
If you haven't got a read-prepared crown, fold each prepared rack into a semicircle with the bones curving outwards. Press the two racks together and sew up each side using a trussing needle and fine string. Stand in a shallow roasting tin and push into a round crown shape.

2.
Now make the stuffing. Melt the butter with the oil in a frying pan and gentry fry the leek, stirring, for 3 – 4 minutes until just softened. Place all the stuffing ingredients, except the garnish, in a bowl and mix in the cooked leeks. Stir to form a firm stuffing mixture and then pile in the centre of the crown. Pack down well, and cover the stuffing with foil.

3.
Roast the crown for about 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes, removing the foil far the last 10 minutes of cooking, basting occasionally. Remove from the oven, cover completely with foil and stand for 15 minutes.

4.
Meanwhile, wash and finely chop the mint. Place in a jug and add the vinegar and sugar. Stir until the sugar dissolves, and then set aside until ready to serve.

5.
Drain the lamb and place on a large serving platter, and garnish with fresh rosemary. Tie leek strips around each bone if liked or cover with cutlet frills. Serve with the mint sauce and accompany with Herb Roast Potatoes (see page 53) and freshly cooked seasonal vegetables.