India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (113 page)

4 The Central Coast

Compared with the beach playgrounds of north Goa, the beaches south of Panjim are more about solitude and stretches of virgin sand (with the north only a short ride away). For the most part, you’ll be sunning yourself on whatever beach is slap-bang in front of your resort hotel—each with its own idyllic setting, these stretches of largely untouched beaches are paradise. Nearest of the beach resorts to the airport, and one of the quietest of south Goa’s more popular beaches, Bogmalo has quaint shacks (as well as a number of ugly concrete buildings), fishing boats, and a view of two small islands some distance out to sea—ask about trips to the islands at the
Watersports Goa
shack, which also has equipment for activities like windsurfing and water-skiing. As you move down the coast, you’ll discover that you’re on a seemingly endless stretch of beach until you reach the headland at
Mobor;
with the exception of development-mutilated
Colva,
much of this is pristine, practically untouched by the sort of commercial mayhem that has besieged Baga-Calangute in the north. You can unfurl your beach towel and cozy up to a friendly beach shack almost anywhere here—just be sure to check that you only swim in areas where lifeguards are stationed, or ask about the local swimming conditions at your hotel.

Alternatively, consider a meandering trip via the Goan interior, traveling past Ponda to the Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary to view Goa’s oldest Hindu temple,
Mahadeva Temple
in Tambdi Surla, and the 600m-high (190-ft.)
Dudhsagar
(Sea of Milk)
Falls.
Constructed from slabs of black basalt,
the 11th-century
Mahadeva Temple is one of the few to have survived the Portuguese, thanks largely to its distance from the coast (some 75km/46 miles from Panjim). To reach the falls, you will need a jeep, so either set off with one from the outset (see “Arrival & Orientation,” earlier in this chapter), or hire one in nearby Collem. Take lunch (look out for greedy monkeys) and a bathing suit for a swim in the deep, icy pool surrounded by rocks and wild greenery; be cautious at the falls, however, as each year a number of careless visitors drown because they underestimate the depth of the water, or bash their head on the rocks after diving in. There is little reason to spend much time in Goa’s second city,
Madgaon (Margao),
which has little more to offer than a stroll through the sprawling spice-scented town market—a maze of covered stalls selling everything from garlands of flowers and peeled prawns to sacks bursting with turmeric, chilies, and tamarind. The town does boast some gorgeous crumbling colonial architecture, and two particularly worthwhile house museums are in the nearby villages of
Loutolim
and
Chandor
respectively (see “A Trip Down Goa’s Architectural Memory Lane,” below); or you can visit
Quepem
to combine a heritage visit with an authentic Goan meal (see “Feasts with a Nostalgic Twist”).

A Trip Down Goa’s Architectural Memory Lane

Goa’s unique architecture has to some extent been well preserved, so much so that—away from the coastal belt, toward the interiors as well as in Panjim, Mapusa, and Margao—you’ll find entire lanes and villages of beautiful old houses, some crumbling, others restored but all offering great insights into the original inhabitants and their status in society. To prove that Goa isn’t just about lounging on beaches and stomping on the dance floor, there are a couple of ways to get a close-up look at some colonial-era architecture. If you’re interested in decoding buildings, or in exploring some of Goa’s historic neighborhoods and villages, contact Heta Pandit of
The
Heritage Network
(
98-2212-8022;
www.heritagenetworkindia.com
) or pick up a copy of Walking in Goa (Eminence Designs Pvt. Ltd.) or Houses of Goa (Architecture Autonomous). The network also organizes events in historic homes, including festive dinners with traditional entertainment. In
Loutolim
(10km/6 1⁄4 miles north of Margao), you can tour the Araujo Alvares family home
Casa Araujo Alvares
(
www.casaaraujoalvares.com
; arrangements through Loutolim’s Ancestral Goa Museum;
0832/277-7034;
Tues–Sun 9am–1pm and 2–6pm), while 13km (8 miles) west lies the old Portuguese village of Chandor and the impressive
Casa de Braganza
, Goa’s largest residence. The two-story facade of this Indo-Portuguese mansion—which practically takes up an entire street—features 28 balconies fronted by a lush, narrow garden. The land-owning Braganzas rose to prominence during the 17th century and today are divided into two clans, the Pereira-Braganzas and the Menezes-Braganzas, who occupy separate wings of the house. The large, high-ceilinged rooms (including a 250-year-old library) are filled with original antiques, rosewood four-poster beds, mosaic floors, and Belgian glass chandeliers. Sun-lit galleries and parlors are filled with bric-a-brac, and French windows open onto an interior garden. You can arrange to have a private tour conducted by Mrs. Braganza (
0832/278-4201;
Rs 100 per visitor); concentrate on the west wing, which is in the best condition.

WHERE TO STAY

The stretch of coastline from Panjim to Mobor has more five-star resorts (the big, sprawling kind with countless activities laid on) than north Goa, and the number is added to annually (raising the hackles of eco-watchdogs). Most of these resorts are characterless but very child-friendly, often with separate pools and activities, and babysitters are always available. If you’re looking for the best of these, the
Leela
is off the charts. However, our first choice for a wonderful and inspiring stay is
Vivenda dos Palhaços
—it’s not a beach resort at all, but a boutique guesthouse offering all the comforts of a real home, coupled with great style, a welcoming atmosphere, and a charmed location.

Bogmalo

Close to both Panjim and Margao (the main market town in the south), and 5 minutes from the airport, Bogmalo offers a swimmable beach and plenty of water sport options but without the intense overcrowding of Baga-Calangute. It is not, however, as secluded as the beaches you’ll find if you travel farther south; nor—thanks to visible concrete developments—is it quite so beautiful. The only decent accommodation here is
Coconut Creek
(
0832/253-8090;
[email protected]; Rs 5,250–Rs 10,000 A/C double, depending on the season), which is generally full with long-term charter groups and offers the basic requisites—pool, cottages, greenery, and beach at walking distance. Owned by the same family is the simple and stylish
Joets
(Bogmalo Beach;
0832/253-8036
), a fishing cottage turned guesthouse, right on the beach; upstairs bedrooms each have balconies and private sitting areas (Rs 2,900–Rs 6,000 double). More important, Joets has a “happening” restaurant with live music on Friday—make reservations and ask for a corner table by the sea.