India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (261 page)

Nadesar Palace, Varanasi 221 002.
0542/250-3001
through -3019. Fax 0542/250-1343.
www.tajhotels.com
. 130 units. Rs 8,500 standard double; Rs 9,500 executive double; Rs 11,500 executive suite; Rs 12,500 deluxe suite. Rs 1,200 extra bed. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
2 restaurants; bar; airport transfer (Rs 745); astrologer; badminton; doctor-on-call; golf (at Nadesar Palace); gym; outdoor pool; room service; spa (at Nadesar Palace); table tennis; tennis; yoga. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 200/hr., Rs 600/full day).

The Nadesar Palace
This 175-year old property, once the city residence of the Maharaja Singh and today a Taj-operated hotel, and our top hotel choice by far in the Cantonment, blends the luxury of two different eras: original 19th-century architectural detailing is augmented with Victorian claw-foot bathtubs and a mix of authentic and reproduction antiques, yet offers all the modern conveniences you’d expect from a hotel that opened in 2009. Rooms come dressed in muted colors, with four-poster beds draped in silks and hand-woven carpets; plenty of common areas to lounge in both upstairs and down in the veranda by the pool, which although tiny, is in keeping with the general facade. The grounds are as yet undeveloped (golf course in the making) but it’s worth taking a ride on the Maharaja’s 220-year old buggy, which clip-clops its way through the 16 hectares (40 acres), the proud coachman pointing to a myriad of trees planted decades ago.

Nadesar Palace Grounds, Varanasi 221 002.
0542/250-3001
through -3019. Fax 0542/250-1406.
www.tajhotels.com
. 10 units. Rs 20,000 palace rooms; Rs 30,000 historical suites; Rs 36,000 royal suites; Rs 1,250 extra bed; check website for best available rates. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; airport transfer (Rs 745); buggy ride; doctor-on-call; golf; gym; outdoor pool; room service; spa; outdoor tennis. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 200/hr., Rs 600/day).

Radisson Hotel Varanasi
The most popular choice in Varanasi’s cantonment offers ultracontemporary accommodations, reliable service, and the usual five-star Radisson amenities at a relatively affordable price—a good deal if you think being on the river will be too much. Guest rooms are large and comfortable, with thick drapes and chocolate-brown furniture offset by pale walls. There’s a full spa and a smallish pool with wooden deck chairs and its own bar; breakfasts are served in the bright sunflower-themed coffee shop. The free railway station transfer is very convenient if you’re arriving by overnight train from Delhi. The only drawback of this otherwise good chain hotel is that none of the rooms have views worth mentioning.

The Mall, Cantonment, Varanasi 221 002.
0542/250-1515.
Fax 0542/250-1516.
www.radisson.com
. [email protected]. 116 units. Rs 5,000 superior double; Rs 7,000 club room; Rs 9,000 suite; Rs 1,100 extra bed. Rates include breakfast; taxes extra. Check online for special deals. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
2 restaurants; bar; lounge and pastry bar; airport transfer (Rs 715); babysitting; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; health club; Internet (Rs 300/hr., Rs 1,300/day); palmist; outdoor pool; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (complimentary).

Waterfront

Ganges View Guesthouse
You’re required to remove your shoes upon entering this lovely colonial lodge at the edge of the Ganges, and it’s an appropriate gesture of respect given the effort that has turned the best budget guesthouse into such a comfortable haven. In fact, it’s so popular with certain repeat guests (many of them artists and musicians) that you’d do well to book your room up to a year in advance. The gorgeous, simple guest rooms feature marble floors and French doors that open onto enclosed corridors filled with ornamental columns, charming objets de art, good art, antique furniture, and animal trophies. Book an upstairs room and specify clearly if you also want a waterfront view. Evening meals (which should be booked in advance) are traditional (vegetarian only) affairs taken in the pretty dining room, but the large, open-air upstairs terrace is a delightful spot for breakfast (additional charge), accompanied by excellent views of activity at the
ghats
down below.

B1/163 Assi Ghat, Varanasi 221 006.
0542/231-3218.
Fax 0542/236-9695. [email protected]. 14 units (with showers). Rs 2,500 downstairs double; Rs 3,500 upstairs double. Rates are discounted Apr–Sept. No credit cards.
Amenities:
Dining room; airport transfer (Rs 1,200); musical performances; room service. In room: A/C