India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (335 page)

If you’d like to have a more interactive vacation, staying with (and getting to know) local folk, contact
Ecosphere
(Ishita Khanna;
98-99492417
or 01906/22-2724;
www.spitiecosphere.com
). Ecosphere has pioneered homestays and grassroots community participation in the Spiti region and can help put together a really memorable trip. If you’re a hiker,
Aquaterra Adventures
(
www.aquaterra.in
), one of India’s leading adventure travel specialists, runs “homestay trails”—fantastic hiking holidays through the rugged terrain with accommodations arranged in local village homes rather than tented camps—thereby providing a glimpse into the lifestyle and culture of this region. Aquaterra also organizes a yearly descent of the Spiti-Pin rivers from Kiato to Sumdo.

You Can’t Eat Plastic

Obtaining cash against credit cards can be problematic in more remote parts of Himachal Pradesh (such as Kinnaur and Spiti) and anywhere in Ladakh outside Leh. Make sure you draw cash (easiest at ATMs) in the tourist hubs of Shimla, Dharamsala, and Manali before heading into the mountains.

GETTING AROUND
Ultra-budget-conscious travelers undertake the journey on what seems like a wing and a prayer in state buses that rely on luck as much as faith to reach their destination, while born-to-be-wild adventurers do it on the back of a motorbike—sign up with Capt. Raaj Kumar of
Shepherds Realms
(see “Staying Active” above). For the rest, we highly recommend renting a jeep and driver—the heftier the jeep (a Toyota Qualis or a Mahindra Scorpio), the better your chances of actually enjoying the adventure. Most of the villages can be explored on foot, and the region lends itself to trekking (see “Staying Active,” earlier in this chapter). For one-stop shopping, we recommend you utilize the services of Banjara Camps (see “Visitor Information,” above), which offers most of the best lodging options in the area and can arrange your entire jeep safari. Based in Tabo,
Phuntsok Dhuondup
(
94-1857-6181
or 01906/22-3452;
www.spitivalley.com
) is a reliable driver—a former Buddhist monk, he has many interesting stories to tell along the way.

INNER LINE PERMITS
Foreigners may not travel through the zone closest to the Tibetan border without first obtaining an
Inner Line Permit
from one of several government offices in Himachal. It’s a fairly easy, if laborious and potentially frustrating, process (taking anywhere from 3 hr. to a whole day); although you can have a travel agent in Shimla handle this for you (you will need your passport, three passport-size photographs, and two copies of both the main page of your passport and your visa), we strongly recommend that you apply in Reckong Peo, where one agent at the so-called
Tourist Information Centre
(Mr. Bhagwan Negi;
94-1811-9617
) handles all applications and does so with the least possible amount of fuss. The permit, arranged here, will cost Rs 150 and does not require any photos; permits are usually issued at 11am and 3pm (Mon–Sat only). Fill in your application and you’ll be asked to report back before being led to the Deputy Commissioner’s Building for a personal appearance and photograph which will be printed directly onto the permit. It takes a few hours, but use the time to check out the views from the village of Kalpa, a few miles above Reckong Peo. Another way of dealing with the slow pace is to apply and then collect your papers the following day after overnighting in beautiful Kalpa nearby. It’s a good idea to phone ahead to ensure that the
SDM office
(
01786/222-253;
Mon–Sat 10am–5pm) is definitely open on the day you plan to apply.

THE JOURNEY: KINNAUR & SPITI IN 7 DAYS

This itinerary is designed for a slightly more leisurely journey through the Kinnaur and Spiti valleys than you may have time for. This is not an area to be covered in a hurry—rather extend your vacation, or you’ll spend most of your trip regretting that you have to return at all. If you’re pressed for time, you could probably shave off a day or two, but you’re likely to be shell-shocked by the end of it if you don’t. If you’re really short on time, but want to see the Spiti Valley and take in a couple of its Buddhist villages and monasteries, you can forgo the trip through Kinnaur and instead make your way into Spiti from Manali; the trip from Manali to Kaza (the main hub in Spiti) takes a full day. If you’re journeying this way and don’t intend continuing beyond Tabo, you won’t need to procure an Inner Line Permit; however, if you are doing the following trip in its entirety in reverse, you can get the necessary documents in Kaza (any travel agent should be able to assist).

Day 1 & 2: Shimla to Sangla

Heading east out of Shimla, “National Highway” 22 takes you to
Narkanda
(2,708m/8,882 ft.), a ski resort (Jan–Mar) where you can take in excellent views from Hatu Peak. Then continue north past the commercial town of
Rampur,
a former princely capital. The road descends towards the raging Sutlej River, following its contours until you come upon the dusty village of
Jeori.
From here, a twisting, hairpin-heavy climb leads to the charming village of
Sarahan
(2,165m/7,101 ft., 6 hr. from Shimla), which enjoys spectacular views of the snowcapped peaks across the river. Trapped in time, Sarahan is the site of the famous pagoda-style
Bhimakali Temple
.

Once you’ve satisfied your curiosity at the temple, follow the same road back down to Jeori. About 3km (2 miles) ahead of Karchham (Baspa-Sutlej Junction), take a U-turn to come back to Karcham and then follow the steep dirt tracks (the road from Karcham to Sangla is fairly wide now, and two small cars/jeeps can comfortably pass by each other) of the
Sangla Valley
,
through which the raging Baspa River flows. You won’t find any flashy accommodations, but comfortable
Banjara Sangla Valley Camp & Retreat
,
8km (5 miles) beyond Sangla, is an excellent place to spend a night or two, and serves as the perfect base from which to explore the remote hamlet of
Chitkul
(3,450m/11,316 ft.). Tents are set up in a gorgeous open meadow (wildflowers in full bloom July–Oct) alongside the Baspa River, beneath towering Khargala Peak. Besides the well-established camp, there are now also a handful of spacious, immaculate rooms in a low-rise building built overlooking the river near the campsite. A night in one of the Swiss tents (with attached showers that dispense hot water at the flick of a switch) costs Rs 5,500 double, including all meals and taxes, while the Retreat rooms are Rs 6,000. Make use of the opportunity to pick the brains of Banjara founders Ajay or Rajesh (one of whom is generally in camp) for details of the best treks in the area. Both are wonderful hosts (as is Sonu, the camp manager), with plenty of ideas for what you can do (besides lying in one of the inviting hammocks overlooking the river). Evening mealtimes kick off with predinner drinks and snacks around the bonfire, which can be quite sociable; besides the standard buffet, there’s an optional barbeque, and there’s nothing stopping you from picking up fresh fish from a local farm (the area is known for trout fishing) and asking the kitchen team to grill it for you. The setting is scintillating, and you’ll regret not spending 2 nights, especially after the exhausting full-day drive spent getting here; and if you do have trouble getting here—or get caught up or delayed—call
98-1811-9871
or 98-1695-9904 for assistance.