India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (337 page)

Set out from Kalpa/Recong Peo either the moment you have your permit, or—if you’ve decided to stay in Kalpa for the night—early the following day; once you pass the first Inner Line checkpoint (in 2009 this was at Spillo, but in 2010 may shift 9km/5 1⁄2 miles east, to Dubling), you will notice dramatic changes in the landscape, as fir trees give way to rock and stone sloping up toward distant summits and down into the raging River Sutlej. The journey through Inner Line territory takes you past the off-limits turnoff for 5,500m-high (18,040-ft.) Shipki-La Pass, which heads into China.
Nako Lake
and its pretty village lie farther along (it’s the ideal spot to stretch your legs, and there are a few tented camps and other guesthouses where you could overnight if you have the time). Beyond the turnoff for Nako, the road attains its most sinister aspect as you enter the notorious section known as the Malling Slide, heavily punctuated with precipitous drops—an ideal place to strengthen your faith in the divine. However, the bypass to Malling via Nako has been operational for some time now—though not “fault” free, there is every chance that you will get through here; this road meets the highway again at Chango. Upon reaching the final Inner Line checkpoint at Sumdo—some 115km (71 miles) from Recong Peo and 363km (225 miles) from Shimla—the road heads northwest into the alien landscapes of Spiti.

Day 4, 5 & 6: The Spiti Valley

Some 6 hours from Recong Peo, the Buddhist village of
Tabo
(365km/226 miles from Shimla) is the most frequented stop in Spiti, and for good reason. With a population of around 400, this Buddhist settlement, situated at 3,050m (10,004 ft.) in lower Spiti, is centered around its celebrated 1,000-year-old monastic complex. It’s the oldest continuously functioning Buddhist monastery in India and said to be the place where the present Dalai Lama will “retire.” A serene village of flat-roofed houses topped by thatch packed with branches, mud, and grass, Tabo has as its obvious focus its monastery, or “doctrinal enclave.” This consists of nine temple buildings, chambers for monks and nuns,
23 snow-white
chortens,
and piles of stones, each inscribed with scripture. We recommend you stay at
Dewachen Retreats
(
01906/22-3301,
94-1836-3999, or 98-1709-1312; [email protected]; open May–Oct), certainly the cleanest guesthouse in the village. There are eight double rooms (Rs 4,000 including all meals; 10% tax extra), most of which have views over Tabo’s cultivated fields, and one viewless family suite (Rs 7,000 for four people). Rooms are fairly basic, but very neat and clean, with tiled bathrooms, wardrobe space, reading lights, thick duvets, and hot water bottles just in case. The manager will organize guides for sightseeing and can arrange various kinds of excursions and adventure activities in the Valley. Many visitors traveling on a tight budget (or in town to do research at the monastery library) stay at the monastery guesthouse (
01906/23-3313
or -3315), which is indeed cheap (Rs 300–Rs 550), but when we last stayed here found the rooms extremely dirty, with dodgy plumbing in the attached and the shared bathrooms. The Tibetan food at the guesthouse restaurant, on the other hand, is good. Another fine place to stop for a meal is the
Kunzum Top Restaurant
(
94-1850-3966
), where you can sit in the sun-drenched garden courtyard, or head inside for one of the low tables. Here it’s possible to sample authentic Spitian cuisine (as humble as this may be), so try the slightly nutty-tasting
tsampa
porridge, made using the locally grown roasted barley flour; you can also ask them to make you a
tsampa
pancake. If you’re here for dinner, order the Spiti
thali;
it comes with butter tea,
timok
(a type of steamed bread), potato with glass noodles, and cheese. Cheap, delicious
momos
are also served. Restaurant proprietor Sonam Tsering ([email protected]) organizes traditional music gatherings here in the winter, and also offers advice on local activities, trekking and homestay opportunities throughout Spiti and Kinnaur.

Not far from Tabo is the village of
Dhankar,
which hugs the side of a hill and offers breathtaking glimpses of the surrounding mountains and valley below—a visit to the precariously perched monastery is one of Spiti’s most exciting highlights. Visit Dhankar on your way from Tabo, and then continue on to the town of
Kaza
(47km/29 miles from Tabo).
As the administrative headquarters of Spiti, Kaza offers little excitement (although the new
Sakya Tenggyu Monastery,
inaugurated in July 2009, is very beautiful), but serves as the lodging, transport and market hub for the entire region. It’s a useful base from which to visit the beautiful, fortresslike
gompa
of
Ki
and the high-altitude villages of
Kibber
and
Comic
. Kaza is also useful for treks through the
Pin Valley,
a national park inhabited by endangered snow leopard and Siberian ibex, as well as rare birds such as the Himalayan snow cock, snow partridge and Tibet snow finch.

Plan on spending at least 2 nights here at
Kaza Retreat,
another inn operated by the Banjara group (
www.banjaracamps.com
; doubles Rs 4,400 including all meals). The building is a bit of an eyesore at the edge of town, but accommodations are the best for miles—fairly spacious, comfortable, clean, and with attached bathrooms (and round-the-clock hot water). A great option if you’d rather not stay in Kaza (which has a problem with dogs howling all through the night), is
Spiti Sarai
(
01906/22-2670
or 94-1843-9247; [email protected]), which sits on a large plot a few miles north of Kaza, and has double rooms from Rs 2,200 including all meals. You can book through their office (Spiti Holiday Adventures) in Kaza’s Main bazaar, or Waymark Adventures in New Delhi (
011/2891-5686
or 98-1130-1228; [email protected]).

Day 7: The Final Stretch

North of Spiti is
Lahaul
. Linked to the rest of Himachal by the Rohtang Pass, dotted with villages of flat-roofed houses, fluttering prayer flags, and whitewashed
chortens,
Lahaul is cut off from the world by heavy snow for 8 months of the year. This mountainous region attracts adventurers to its Buddhist monasteries, mountain passes, spectacular glaciers, and high-altitude lakes. Visitors traveling by road to Leh in Ladakh, farther north, pass through Lahaul.

Moving on from Kaza, you can either head for Manali (it’ll take a full day) to catch your breath, or travel directly to Leh. The latter is a 2-day trip; the best (at least the only half-decent) place to stay along the way is the
Hotel Ibex
(
www.hotelibexjispa.com
; Rs 2,400 double with dinner and breakfast).

A Guide to the Top Temples, Gompas & Villages in Spiti & Kinnaur

BEST FOR HINDU MYSTIQUE:
Bhimakali Temple
Chanting and music blast from the temple loudspeakers very early each morning and again in the evenings, transforming Sarahan village into a place that literally resonates with spirituality. Combining Hindu and Buddhist architectural elements, the main section of the temple comprises two pagoda-style pitched slate-roof towers. Built from layers of interlaced stone and timber, the towers rise from a courtyard around which are living quarters and a small museum with a collection of weapons and other unusual ritual objects and relics. Had you visited the temple 200 years ago, you might have witnessed one of the annual human sacrifices that kept the gods satisfied; today, animals suffice. The tower on the right was damaged in an earthquake a century ago, and the presiding deity was relocated to the tower on the left. Climb the stairs to get to the main shrine with its family of idols. Bhimakali is the main deity, while Durga, Ganesha, and even Buddha are all in attendance. The priests don’t speak English, but it’s worth taking part in the small puja (prayer) ceremony, so bring your rupees and buy some religious paraphernalia outside the temple. Morning and evening prayers are scheduled but don’t always take place.