India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (262 page)

Palace on Ganges
It’s no palace, and it’s not in the center of things, but for the waterfront this is a reasonably smart option. Guest rooms are small but attractive, with marble or parquet floors and rugs, king-size beds with hard foam mattresses, and some of the best amenities on the Ganges. Walls are decorated with artworks reflecting aspects of Indian heritage sites, and each room is a tribute to a different regional style. Bathrooms (showers only) are tiny. The heritage theme is carried throughout, with polished brown marble stairways, dark wood paneling, and intricately carved period furniture featuring inlaid decorative tiles. Although its location overlooking the Ganges is one of the selling points, you aren’t guaranteed a river-view room (do request one, though longer stays enjoy first dibs), and views from the rooftop terrace restaurant (Jain food only) include an unpleasant garbage dump at the water’s edge.

B-1/158 Assighat, Varanasi 221 001.
0542/231-5050,
-4304, or -4305. Fax 0542/220-4898 or 0542/231-4306.
www.palaceonganges.com
.
[email protected]
. 24 units (with showers). Rs 3,000 double; off season (May–July) Rs 2,000 double. Taxes extra. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
2 restaurants; doctor-on-call; room service. In room: A/C, TV, minibar.

A Palace on the River/Rashmi Guest House
Also strategically located by the banks of the river, this hotel/guesthouse is more expensive than Ganges View or Palace on Ganges but is highly popular for its exceptional, friendly staff—everyone loves Pappu, their in-house guide and perhaps Rashmi’s biggest asset, along with their rooftop restaurant (stick to Indian food, which is consistently good). The atmosphere is great thanks to the hands-on attitude of host Rashmi and her family, and offers generous amentias like an efficient, free railway pick up (there’s a charge however for drop off) and free Internet (don’t opt for the massage, though; the room’s a tad claustrophobic). For the best views (and it’s definitely worth booking a river-facing view) try to book rooms on one of the top floors (third to fifth floor), though be warned, there is no elevator. Again, bathrooms are tiny.

D 16/28 A, Manmandir Ghat.
0542/2402778.
www.palaceonriver.com
. 16 units (8 with showers, 8 with bathtubs). Rs 2,500 standard, Rs 6,000 river-facing deluxe. Taxes extra. MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; airport transfer (Rs 750); doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, fridge (only in deluxe rooms), heater (in winters), Wi-Fi (complimentary).

WHERE TO DINE

Varanasi is not known for its culinary finesse as far as the westerner’s palate goes but Indians feel quite the contrary and eating here is almost as ritualistic as dipping oneself in the Ganga. Since many of these eats are catered essentially by street vendors or hole-in-the-wall establishments, we choose not to make any specific suggestions, keeping in mind the average Indian’s strong immunity system. However, for the bold and adventurous, throw aside all caution and follow the crowds: in the mornings, you’ll find the populace indulging enthusiastically (almost as if it’s their first even though they do this on a daily basis) in what is called
alu kachori
(fried puff pastry or bread served with spicy potato curry). In the thick of the afternoon when all you want to do is faint, down a massive glass of
badaam thandai
—almond-flavored sweet milk. In the evening ask your hotel for guidance to the closest and best
chaat
shop where you can have just about anything on the menu—try the curd-based items as they mitigate the accompanying fiery chilies to some extent. After this, you can make a dash for any confectioner’s shop which sells
rabari
—thickened sweet milk which you eat with a spoon instead of gulping it. And although you need to be bolder and more adventurous than normal for the next one, it is a trademark of a visit to Varanasi—the famous Banarasi
paan
(a leaf of a particular plant with a whole assortment of betel nuts and various other ingredients made in less than 20 sec.; insist they put no tobacco in it). On the safer side of the culinary fence, Varanasi’s best and smartest restaurant is
Varuna
(
0542/250-3001;
only dinner), in the Taj Ganges hotel, which features a vast menu of Indian specialties (illustrated with chilies to indicate those that are superstrength), a comfortable air-conditioned interior, and helpful service. For the works, served on a traditional Varanasi silver platter, order the Satvik Thali (Rs 500). This is very much a hotel restaurant, and you may not be in the Cantonment area at lunchtime. The Taj’s
Chowk
restaurant does dinner buffet spreads that are popular with foreign tour groups, and at Rs 575, the buffets offer very good value.For a hygienic meal while exploring the Old City, your options are limited. Varanasi caters rather haphazardly to the budget Western traveler, with a split focus on affordability and cleanliness, presumably implied by the involvement of foreign management. If you want authentic Indian food, we recommend calling ahead to find out about the possibility of a meal at either Dolphin restaurant at
Rashmi Guest House
or
Ganges View Guesthouse
(see above) or head for the old stalwart Keshari (reviewed below). There’s the rather iconic
Bread of Life Bakery & Restaurant
(B3/322 Shivala), established by James and Monika Hetherington, an American interior designer and a German flight attendant. The decor is very sterile (white-vinyl-top tables), and staff borders on comatose, but you can enjoy wholesome Western dishes and freshly baked breads and muffins knowing that you are making a positive contribution—all profits from the bakery and the silk shop above (which, incidentally, has a good selection of scarves and linen made by local weavers) go to local charities, including the Mother Teresa Hospice. Daily specials include steaming-hot vegetable moussaka, chickpea goulash, ratatouille, and warm Portuguese salad. Hot dishes take awhile to arrive, so you can be certain that everything is freshly prepared and, in a city known for food-related mishaps, that hygiene is a priority Sadly, there is talk of shutting, but nothing had been decided at press time. Another favorite is the
Brown Bread Bakery,
conveniently located on Dashaswamedh Ghat (D5/17, Tripura Bhairavi;
93-3546-5176
or 0542/240-3566). It’s got a mouthwatering selection of breads, rolls, and pastries, as well as pizzas and a variety of Tibetan fare—this could save the day if you haven’t taken to the city’s traditional cuisine. You could also consider laid-back
Lotus Lounge
(D14/27, Mansarowar Ghat;
98-3856-7717
), an open-air eatery on the
ghats,
benefiting from a bird’s-eye view of the Ganges. Perfect for all-day chilling (lounge on floor cushions or sit at tables set with candles at night), the space is lorded over by a serene-looking Buddha mural and operated by an Indo-German couple, Martina and Atul, who vary the menu seasonally. Count on fresh ingredients and wide-ranging international choices: gazpacho (made with ginger), red Thai curry, impressive ravioli, and wonderful Tibetan-style
momos
(dumplings). While meat is generally an absolute no-no anywhere near the river, here you can even order fresh chicken. It’s open September through mid-May.