India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (143 page)

GETTING THERE & AWAY
By Road
As mentioned earlier, Kerala is ideal for exploration with a hired car and driver; roads are relatively good, the countryside is spectacular, and Trivandrum is connected by principal roads and highways with all parts of the country. For car/driver hire recommendations, see “Guided Tours,” below. Super Deluxe bus services are operated by the
Kerala State Road Transport Corporation;
long-distance buses operate from
the Central Bus Station in Thampanoor (
0471/232-3886
), while shorter journeys start and finish at the City Bus Stand in East Fort (
0471/246-3029
). Private operators run so-called deluxe coaches to more distant towns and cities in South India, usually overnight, but remember that most night buses make regular pit stops, making sleep impossible. If you’re budgeting your time and money, however, by all means go by bus—just make sure you’ve booked a nonstop (Volvo) bus. Though the journey is long, it’s relatively comfortable and cheap (an overnight bus from Bangalore to Kochi for instance, takes 10 to 11 hours and costs less than Rs 1,000; buses are air-conditioned, have reclining seats, usually provide blankets, and stop only two or three times for toilet/food breaks. Before setting off, try to determine precisely where you need to get off; these buses usually stop at several points in the destination city, with the conductor screaming wildly in a language you don’t understand—try to make sure he lets you know specifically when it’s time for you to get off.

By Air
Trivandrum is connected by air to Delhi, Mumbai, Kochi, Chennai, Bangalore, Hyderabad, and Tiruchirapali.
Trivandrum International Airport
(
0471/250-1424
for international flight information;
www.trivandrumairport.com
) is served by all the Indian airlines including
Kingfisher, Jet Airways, Paramount,
and
Spice Jet
(airlines rated the most reliable, with the best service standards). There are also international flights from various Asian cities, Middle Eastern hubs (including Dubai and Abu Dhabi, both convenient for connections from Europe), and nearby Malé in the Maldives. The airport is 6km (3 3⁄4 miles) from the city center, and you can pick up a set-fee prepaid taxi for the journey into town inside the terminal, or shell out a little more and arrange with John Thomas (
Kerala Adventures;
[email protected]) for one of his charming drivers to pick you up (Rs 495–Rs 695 to Kovalam beach, depending on whether or not you need A/C; Rs 1,045–Rs 1,465 to Chowara or Poovar).

By Train
There are regular trains between Trivandrum and other important destinations in Kerala, including Kochi (under 4 hr.), Alleppey (31⁄2 hr.), Kollam (11⁄2 hr.), and Varkala (1 hr.). If you’re coming from Chennai in Tamil Nadu, the overnight
Trivandrum Mail
is convenient. Trains also reach India’s southernmost point, Kanyakumari; the journey takes around 21⁄2 hours.

Thiruvananthapuram Central Railway Station
is just east of M.G. Road, on Station Road; for general railway inquiries, call
131.
For reservations, call
132
or 0471/232-3066, or you can access the
Interactive Voice Response
service by calling
1361.

GETTING AROUND
By Taxi & Auto-Rickshaw
In this region you will probably need a taxi from the airport (or your hired car and driver if you’ve been traveling around the state) to take you to your Kovalam resort; after this you’re unlikely to need transport, with the exception of a possible brief foray to a nearby market. For this you’re best off using a rickshaw; these officially charge Rs 10 for the first 1 1⁄2km, plus around Rs 5 per additional kilometer, although you might want to settle on a fair price before setting off. To hire a car and driver, see “Guided Tours,” below.

By Motorcycle & Scooter
You can rent an Enfield or Honda on a daily basis from
Kerala Adventures
(
0471/243-3398) in Trivandrum.

GUIDED TOURS & TRAVEL AGENTS
To make the most of your time, we strongly recommend hiring a private car and driver, and set off on a personalized trip from Trivandrum. Our personal preference would be to use the top-notch local outfit
Kerala Adventures
(House No. 101 Geeth, Golflinks Rd., Sasthamangalam, Trivandrum;
0471/243-3398 or 0471/231-9548;
www.keralaadventure.com
; [email protected]); proprietor John Thomas (24-hr. emergency contact
98-4706-5548 or 99-9507-6829) provides a seamless service and has never let us down no matter how convoluted our schedule. He is also adept at putting customized itineraries together—he’s not afraid to take you well off the beaten track if you like adventure, and arranges all sorts of specialized trips (for birders, cycling enthusiasts, and even ardent campers, for example). Shopping around? Then you could also get a quote from
Sita World Travel
(
0471/247-0921
or 0471/246-0173; [email protected]) or try
Tourindia
(
0471/232-8070
or 0471/233-1507), which has been involved in several innovative alternative tourism projects in Kerala.
KTDC
(Hotel Chaithram, adjacent Central Bus Station, Thampanoor;
0471/233-0031;
Mon–Sat 6:30am–9:30pm) runs conducted sightseeing tours in and around the city. Aimed primarily at domestic tourists, they are not recommended, but are a cheap way of taking in as many of the sights as possible.