India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (276 page)

GETTING AROUND
Indore has plenty of
taxis
and
auto-rickshaws;
ask the driver to use his meter. In Mandu, you can hire a
bicycle,
or ride on the back of a
motorcycle
with a local guide as your driver.

EXPLORING MANDU

After passing through the narrow gates of the fortress and continuing for some distance, you’ll arrive in “downtown” Mandu (a collection of shops and stalls in the vicinity of the
Central Group
of monuments). As soon as you emerge from your car or bus, you’ll no doubt be approached by a local guide who will offer his services. Even if your guide—and there are only a couple in Mandu—is not a certified expert, this is one place where it can be fun to have someone show you around and enrich your experience with a version of history that overdoes the myth, romance, and fantasy. Establish that he speaks passable English, and agree on a price upfront; expect to pay up to Rs 500 for the day. Monuments are open from 8am to 6pm.

If you don’t plan to spend the night in Mandu, start your tour immediately with 15th-century
Jama Masjid
. Said to have been inspired by the mosque in Damascus, this colossal colonnaded structure bears some Hindu influences, such as the carvings of lotus flowers and decorative bells. Adjacent to the mosque is the
mausoleum of Hoshang Shah,
the first white marble tomb in India, said to have inspired those in Agra; it’s ultimately missable. The
Royal Enclave
(Rs 100; daily 8am–6pm) is dominated by enormous
Jahaz Mahal,
commonly known as the “ship palace.” Built between two artificial lakes, it certainly was intended to be the ultimate stone pleasure cruiser, where the sultan Ghiyas Shah kept his 15,000 courtesans and an additional 1,000 Amazonians from Turkey and Abyssinia to guard them. Behind the ship palace is
Hindola Mahal;
its oddly sloping buttress walls have given it the nickname “Swing Palace.”

Mandu’s main road stretches southward, through open fields dotted with ruins and a few village houses, and continues into the
Rewa Kund
group of monuments, where the passionate romance between Maharaja Baz Bahadur, the last independent sultan of Malwa, and the beautiful Hindu shepherdess, Rupmati, is preserved in striking stone constructions. Apparently smitten by Rupmati’s glorious singing voice, Baz built the
Rupmati Pavilion
(Rs 100) so that she could see her village in the Narmada Valley below, but things went awry when the Mughal emperor Akbar came to hear of her legendary beauty and voice and wanted to take her home as a souvenir. After a fierce battle in which Baz was defeated, his beloved committed suicide. The view from the pavilion, which stands on the edge of a sheer precipice rising 365m (1,197 ft.) from the valley floor, is still sublime. On the way back from the pavilion, stop at
Baz Bahadur’s Palace
(Rs 100), where the acoustics enjoyed by the musically inclined king remain quite astonishing, even if some of the restoration work is a bit ham-handed.

WHERE TO STAY & DINE

While there are basic lodgings in Mandu, we highly recommend a stay at Ahilya Fort (reviewed below), a fantastic destination in itself, situated on the Narmada River in the town of Maheshwar, some 91km (56 miles) from Indore. From either city, the journey to Mandu should take 21⁄2 hours. If you arrive in Indore too late to move on to Mandu or Maheshwar, you’ll easily find a room in one of the city’s standard business hotels; the best of these is
Fortune Landmark
(
0731/398-8444;
www.fortunehotels.com
; from $90 double). The amenities and comforts here match those of any reasonable city hotel, and the surrounding lawns and gardens are lovely. If, however, you’d prefer a more personal experience, see if you can manage to stay at
Rashid Kothi
(22 Yeshwant Niwas Rd., Indore 452 003;
0731/254-5060;
[email protected]), a family home run by Anuradha Dubey and Arshad Rashid. Of the two rooms, one is a garden cottage; furnishings are comfortable and contain thoughtful touches that enhance the homely atmosphere. All meals (strictly vegetarian) are included in the room rate (Rs 5,500 single, Rs 10,000 double without air-conditioning).

If you decide to stay in Mandu itself, be prepared to rough it somewhat. Our first choice among the small selection of spartan lodgings is
Hotel Rupmati
(Mandu 454 010;
07292/26-3270
), a budget charmer with 12 simple rooms (from Rs 1,300 double). Close to the village bazaar on the edge of a cliff, the hotel enjoys great views. Guest rooms are in a long stone building; all are large with whitewashed walls and a thin, rock-hard mattress with white linens and a blanket (most also have A/C and a TV for double the price). The view can be enjoyed from a small private balcony. Attention has been paid to the grounds, which feature a children’s play area, and the cleanliness and tranquillity of the place make up for the budget facilities.

Ahilya Fort
A haven of tranquillity, the hassle-free sacred town of Maheshwar is home to one of the loveliest heritage properties in the state. The summer palace of Indore’s Prince Richard Holkar (a whiz in the kitchen with a number of cookbooks to his name), the fort is a labyrinthine 18th-century palace, complete with maintained English flower gardens and evocative battlements of rough-hewn stone. Each guest room is a unique combination of colonial period furniture and personal touches, with smart attention to detail. Choose between a river-facing unit (the “royal” rooms have balconies overlooking the river) or one with a private courtyard, or ask to stay in one of two luxurious tents. Besides visiting Mandu (56km/35 miles away), you can explore the Maheshwar temple just next door or visit the local Holkar-resuscitated handloom center. Have dinner on the river under moonlight, or select a terrace, courtyard, or battlement to be your preferred dining spot; the refined meals are a real highlight.

Maheshwar 451 224.
92-0390-5948.
www.ahilyafort.com
. [email protected]. Reservations in Delhi:
011/4155-1575.
Fax 011/4155-1055. 14 units. Rs 10,700 standard and tent double (non-air-conditioned); Rs 13,700 superior double; Rs 15,700 royal double. Rates include all meals, soft drinks, Indian alcoholic beverages, laundry, boating, local sightseeing, and taxes. 2-night minimum stay. 50% discount mid-Apr through mid-Oct. MC, V.
Amenities:
Various dining areas; airport transfer (Rs 2,500; same price each way to Mandu); babysitting; boat trips; doctor-on-call; guided excursions; picnics; outdoor pool; TV and game room. In room: A/C (royal and superior rooms), air-cooler (standard rooms and tents), hair dryer on request, Wi-Fi (complimentary).