India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (187 page)

Chettinad Region

Known as the Marwadis of the South, the Nattukottai Chettiars were a powerful trading community that rose to prominence during the 19th and 20th centuries, specializing in money lending and wholesale trading with the East. While not particularly ostentatious, the Nattukottai Chettiars gave expression to their immense wealth by building massive fortified mansions and temples in the rural villages that spawned them. Their fortunes waned somewhat after World War II, with the new generation of ambitious Chettiars seeking their own pots of gold in the cities of India and beyond, and the majority of these mansions are now padlocked and empty for much of the year, opened only for the occasional marriage ceremony or Bollywood film shoot. Some of the larger homes are opened for visitors keen to view the teak and stone-pillared courtyards, ornate doorways and ceilings, crystal chandeliers, and dusty portraits of the powerful patriarchs who once ruled these now-empty corridors. If you see only one, make it the
Chettinad Palace,
the family home of Raja Sir Annamalai Chettiar, noted educator and business magnate, who built this most ornate of the mansions at the turn of the 20th century in
Kanadukathan.
The best way to arrange access is through the proprietors of the guesthouses who have opened their homes to paying guests. Equally pleasurable is to simply wander alone through the tiny village of Kanadukathan, watching children fetch water from the central stepwell and wizened old ladies gossiping on front porches that equal them in faded glory; keen shoppers should also set aside a few hours to plunder the antiques shops in nearby
Karaikudi,
unofficial “capital” of the Chettinad region.

WHERE TO STAY & DINE

No matter which way you look at it, if you want to see both the Sri Rangathaswamy and Brihadishwara temples, you’ll have to make do with a hotel in either Trichy or Thanjavur—a pity, because neither has exciting accommodations. Of the two, Thanjavur has the better option in the
Ideal River View Resort
(see below). Alternatively, skip one of the temples and head directly to Visalam in Kanadukathan (Chettinad) one of our favorite lodgings and locations in south India. If you need to have lunch in Trichy, the Sangam’s
Chembian
(see below) serves an excellent lunchtime South Indian thali for just over Rs 100; in Thanjavur, head for the Ideal Resort.

Tiruchirappalli (Trichy)

Breeze Residency
Having enjoyed a thorough remodel when it was taken over by new management in 2008, this is now our first choice in Trichy, and with rooms starting at Rs 2,700 it should be yours if you’re watching your budget. Like nearby Sangam, Breeze Residency (formerly known as Jennys) enjoys a typical downtown location, surrounded by ugly buildings and busy roads within walking distance of the bus and train station. While rooms remain bland motel style they are clean and reasonably neat, with new albeit cheap fittings in bathrooms. The restaurant isn’t as good as Sangam’s however. Overall an acceptable choice if you have to spend the night in Trichy.

3/14 McDonald’s Rd, Trichy 620 001.
0431/241-4414.
Fax 0431/246-1451.
www.breezehotel.com
. 123 units. Rs 2,700 double; Rs 3,200–Rs 4,500 suite. Extra person Rs 600. Rates exclude taxes; include breakfast.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; airport pickup (Rs 310); pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 221/12 hr. and Rs 338/day).

Hotel Sangam Tiruchirappalli
Long considered the best lodging option in Trichy, Breeze Residency is certainly giving the Sangam in Tiruchirappalli a run for its money. Sangam remains clean and reasonably comfortable but is definitely showing the patina of age; bathrooms in particular need an update, and as such it’s a rather depressing place to find yourself on a hard-earned vacation. It has adequate facilities, including one of the best Indian restaurants in town, and while service can be slow it is well meaning. But you’d be far better off—if at all possible—pushing on through to the similarly priced but far better Ideal Resort in Thanjavur or, preferable still, spending your time and (just a little more) money at Visalam in Chettinad region.

Collector’s Office Rd, Trichy 620 001.
0431/241-4700
or 0431/424-4555. Fax 0431/241-5779.
www.hotelsangam.com
. 54 units. Rs 4,000–Rs 4,750 double; Rs 7,500 suite. Extra person Rs 1,000. Rates exclude taxes; include breakfast.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; coffee shop; airport transfer (Rs 300); gym; pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, minibar (soft drinks), Wi-Fi (Rs120/30 min.; Rs 400/day).

Thanjavur

We like Ideal Resort both as a luncheon and overnight stop because of its tranquil rural atmosphere, but if you want to be in the heart of Thanjavur, the best option in town is the 50-room
Hotel Parisutham
(
0436/223-1801;
www.hotelparisutham.com
; around Rs 8,000 double). It’s been refurbished from top to bottom and rooms are looking spotless, the pool area is pretty and sparkling clean, and it’s a mere 5-minute walk to the temple and another 5 minutes to the bus and train stations. However, we think it’s overpriced given that the hotel is essentially an unattractive 70s monstrosity, and amenities offer nothing particularly superior—though it’s been spruced up, it’s an old-fashioned hotel with no real defining attributes other than a great location. But if you can negotiate a better price, do it. Until such time, the best-value deal in town is found at
Hotel Gnanam
on Anna Salai Rd (
www.hotelgnanam.com
), which is also walking distance from the temple, bus, and palace. Gnanam is pretty basic but rooms are comfortable and clean, there’s free Wi-Fi in the lobby (when working), and the rooftop vegetarian restaurant is a good place to dine at night. Given the accommodation standards, it’s a
real
steal at Rs 1,400 double (including breakfast and taxes). Noisy location though, so ask for a room at the back (or shell out for the Ideal Resort).

Ideal River View Resort
Located a few miles outside of Thanjavur, Ideal boasts a peaceful rural setting on a lazy riverbank—a welcome relief from the usual big-city chaos. It’s a sprawling property, with some charmingly old-fashioned units in the original main building, and the majority in two-story cottages running parallel to the river; the large dining and entertainment terraces have similar bucolic views (a la carte menu when available is incidentally excellent, though you’ll wait for it!). Rooms were extensively overhauled in 2008, with great showerheads and thick mattresses just some of the welcome changes. Just about every room has a sit out with garden views, and there are hammocks for you to curl up in; there’s also a big pool and plenty of loungers. The free drop off (10am) and pick up (4pm) into Thanjavur (about a 20-min. drive) is useful for those not traveling with their own car and driver.

Vennar River Bank, Palli Agraharam.
0436/225-0533.
Fax 0436/225-1113.
www.idealresort.com
. 30 units. Rs 3,500–Rs 4,500 double. Extra bed Rs 500. Does not include taxes. MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; Ayurvedic center; bicycles for hire; daily town transfer at fixed times (free); games room: Internet Rs 150/60 min.; pool; railway pickup (Rs 200 plus tax); room service. In room: A/C, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 67/30 min.).