India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (215 page)

The kingdom reached its zenith during the reign of Krishna Deva Raya (1509–29), when international trade flourished under progressive commercial practices and foreign trade agreements. Early accounts of the city tell of its massive fortifications, broad boulevards, grand gateways, efficient irrigation systems, and splendid civic amenities. The kingdom of Vijayanagara fell in 1565 when five allied Deccan sultans laid siege to the city, which they then apparently ransacked—their soldiers looting, killing, and destroying at will.

While some of the individual ruins can only be visited upon purchase of a ticket, most of Hampi is a veritable free-for-all, with tame security in the form of a handful of guards at the major monuments. This means that you can mix and match your itinerary as you see fit, moving between the different locations in a taxi or—if you’re up for it—on a bicycle. Before you set off, pick up information or engage the services of an official guide from the government tourist office in Hampi. You can see Hampi’s highlights in a morning if you set out early enough. However, it’s spread over a vast area, and exploring can be quite exhausting, particularly in the midday heat—don’t overdo it, or even the most impressive monuments begin to look like more of the same. In fact, with Vitthala Temple now illuminated at night and plans afoot to light up more of Hampi’s main monuments, it may be worth returning at twilight.

Hampi Bazaar
is a broad, dusty boulevard lined with stalls and restaurants. It leads to the entrance of
Virupaksha Temple
, which predates the Vijayanagara kingdom yet remains a center of living Hindu faith (even though Hindu idols have been removed from the surrounding temples). Virupaksha’s towering
goparum
is lavishly sculpted and rises several stories; within its courtyards, monkeys and children careen around ancient pillars, while a sad-faced temple elephant takes tips for much-rehearsed blessings granted with her trunk. In the far right corner of the complex, tucked within a chamber, look for the shadow of the main
goparum,
which falls—miraculously, it would seem—as an inverted image on the temple wall, created by light passing through a small window. South of Virupaksha Temple is a temple housing a massive
Shiva lingam
(phallic symbol) standing in a pool of water. Carved from a single rock, the lingam is adjacent to a fantastic
monolithic statue of Narasimha
, the man-lion avatar of Vishnu. Although partially damaged, the one-piece carving dating to the early 16th century is one of the finest sculptures at Hampi.

Some distance from the bazaar, on a high elevation, is the spectacular
Vitthala Temple
, dedicated to an incarnation of Vishnu, and one of the most fabulous and famous of Hampi’s monuments. One of Hinduism’s most enduring images, an ornate
stone chariot
, is found here. With solid stone wheels that can turn on their axles, the chariot faces a shaded dance hall where ancient musical dramas were once played out and from where you can now enjoy panoramic views of Vijayanagara. The pillars of the temple are commonly referred to as “musical pillars,” each one producing a different note when tapped.

Nearby, the
King’s Balance
was once a scalelike instrument used to measure out grain or even gold against the weight of the king. The weighed item was then given to the priests (or to the poor, depending on your guide’s story).

The
royal enclosure
incorporates the ruined palaces where the Vijayanagara kings would have lived and held court. Not much survives, but you can still visit
Hazara Rama Temple,
where the royals went to worship, a small
stepped tank, and
Mahanavami Dibba,
a platform where performances and entertainments were held. On the outskirts of the royal complex, you need to buy a ticket to see the
zenana
enclosure, where the two-story Indo-Saracenic pavilion known as
Kamala (Lotus) Mahal
features massive pillars, delicately punctuated arches, and fine stucco ornamentation; its unusual design blends elements of Muslim and Hindu architecture. Within the same enclosure are quarters believed to have been used by Hampi’s Amazonian female guards, described by several Portuguese travelers. Just outside the enclosure are the superb domed
Elephant Stables
.

13km (8 miles) east of Hospet, Belary District. Guides can be hired through the government tourist office in Hampi Bazaar for Rs 300 half-day and Rs 500 full day. Entrance to Virupaksha Temple Rs 2; 6am–12:30pm and 2–8pm. Entrance to both Lotus Mahal and Elephant Stables Rs 220; 8am–6pm. The Hampi Festival takes place Nov 3–5.

WHERE TO STAY

You may come across signposts sporting the name Kishkinda Heritage Resort—it is anything but “heritage” and extremely full in high season with children, thanks to the amusement and water park attached to it. However,
Kishkinda Trust
(
08533/26-7777;
http://thekishkindatrust.org
) does do some interesting work—cross over to
Anegundi
on the other side of the river, where local people both show off their craftwork as well as how they make it—it’s a new initiative, but one well worth supporting. KSTDC’s
Hotel Mayura Bhuvaneshwari
at Kamalapuram (
08394/241-574;
http://kstdc.net
; A/C doubles Rs 1,800) is a much cheaper option (in every sense) to Hampi’s Boulders (but useful in case it’s full). They can also arrange a Hampi tour (Rs 175).