India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (211 page)

Maharanapratap Rd., Nazarbad.
0821/252-2500.
www.thewindflower.com
. Main courses Rs 150–Rs 300. MC, V. Daily 11:30am–3:30pm and 7–11:30pm.

VISITING RAJIV GANDHI NATIONAL PARK

Originally the private property of the Maharajah of Mysore, Karnataka’s most popular elephant hangout became a national park in 1955, 3 years after the princely state of Mysore was absorbed into post-colonial India. Situated 95km (59 miles) southwest of Mysore, and spread over 511 sq. km (199 sq. miles) filled with teak, rosewood, sandal, and silver oak trees, Rajiv Gandhi National Park is also generously populated by
dhole
(wild dogs),
gaur
(Indian bison), antelope, sloth bears, panthers, otters, crocodiles, cobras, pythons, falcons, eagles, and great Indian horned owls. Keep an eye peeled for tiny
muntjac
deer; they stand only .6m (2 ft.) tall and are crowned by finger-length antlers. The big draw, of course, are the tigers (btw. 60 and 65 reside here), but sightings are subject to a great deal of luck—although when Goldie Hawn came here to shoot a documentary, she apparently spotted several. Ms. Hawn stayed at the popular
Kabini River Lodge,
the most practical place to be if you want to have access to the park without any organizational fuss. A charmingly rustic retreat some 6 hours by car from Bengaluru (3 hr. from Mysore), Kabini is spread over 22 hectares (55 acres), incorporating lush forest and largely untamed vegetation, just the way a “jungle resort” should, with the maharajah’s original 18th-century hunting lodge as centerpiece. Accommodations with the best positions are the river-facing cottages. Expect small bathrooms, dated green sofas, and lumpy mattresses covered with charming Indian throws. Eyeball the skies for birds like hoopoes and drongos, try a brief coracle (boat) trip, go for an elephant ride or tiger spotting, and—of course—partake of the meals and tea laid out for you according to a precise schedule. The lodge was set up by Col. John Felix Wakefield, who at 92 still lives on the premises. Book a room at Kabini well in advance, and plan to arrive there at least an hour before the afternoon safari, which begins at 4:30pm (
08228/26-4402
through -4405; head office in Bengaluru
080/2559-7021,
-7024, or -7025;
www.junglelodges.com
; standard package 2 days, 1 night per person, $160; includes all meals, safaris, park entrance, and elephant and boat rides). For companies that offer the services of a car and driver for the 3-hour drive, see “Guided Tours & Travel Agents” under Mysore “Essentials,” above.

Resorts have also begun to spring up in this hitherto lesser-known area. Across the river from Kabini River Lodge,
Orange County Kabini
(
www.orangecounty.in
;
080/4191-1000
)
offers two kinds of lodging—private pool huts and Jacuzzi huts, ranging between $360 and $460. The huts—mud cottages with thatched roofs—are as close to “spirit of the land” as you’ll get, for luxury is the defining word here. All cottages are tastefully designed and spacious, but the pool huts are best for location, with the river virtually lapping at the edges. Those coming for an eco-experience or wanting to be more in the thick of the wildlife will find it a tad commercial—ideal time to visit would be midweek when the fewest tourists are around.
Cicada Resorts
(
080/4115-2200;
www.cicadaresorts.com
) is slightly older and less manicured than Orange County, but their safari vehicles are the best in the area. Standard rooms are bland and overpriced; suites are nicer (Rs 12,000–Rs 18,000). Spend your days kayaking and evenings gazing into the bonfire (there’s no TV).

OF COORG & COFFEE

Legend has it that in 1670, Baba Budan, a Muslim pilgrim, carried seven coffee beans from Arabia (where the export of only processed beans was allowed) and planted them in the Chikmagalur region of Karnataka, thus introducing coffee to India. Today the state is the largest producer of coffee in the country, and a large chunk of it comes from a gorgeous area known as Kodagu, or, as the British called it, Coorg, an elevated region that lies 3 hours southwest of Mysore. With undulating hills, this is a superb trekking destination, and as yet still somewhat of a secret.

Five and a half hours from Bengaluru and 2 hours from Mysore, the capital of Coorg is
Madikeri,
an unexceptional town but a convenient base for treks in the area. If you don’t intend to hike, however, you could opt for a quieter, more luxurious getaway in the midst of a coffee plantation at Orange County (run by the same company that operates Orange County Kabini), or an even more authentic stay in the rustic Rainforest Retreat (both reviewed below). As is the case elsewhere, a number of homestay options have emerged in the last few years, but most don’t meet our standards of hygiene and ambience. If you plan on staying within the town itself, then
Gowri Nivas
(New Extension, Madikeri;
094481-93822;
www.gowrinivas.com
; doubles at Rs 3,500), is a sweet and clean place, run by the extremely chilled Bopanna and his wife, Muthu. They can also help you get to the top of
Tadiyendamol
, the highest peak in Coorg at 1,750m (5,740 ft). A little lower than Madikeri, a massive planter’s bungalow, once the residence of the Diwan to Raja of Coorg, has been taken up by the expert Neemrana Hotels Group and opened to tourists. The Swiss-styled
Green Hills Estate
(
www.neemranahotels.com
;
011/4666-1666;
doubles from Rs 5,000), is surrounded by coffee plantations, and still very reminiscent of the days when the Chengappa family (now living a stone’s throw away) lived in the grand style here. Wooden stairs lead to massive suites, antiques and period furniture are in every corner, with frayed tiger skins on the floors, and a slightly disconcerting dining area uses the once-majestic animals of surrounding forests as wall décor. It’s all utterly charming when there are other guests staying there. If the culture of the area intrigues you, ask for Kartik, who has grown up in these environs, but of course the best way of getting acquainted with the Coorgi way of life is to attend a wedding—nonstop fun, and full of interesting rites and ceremonies. Essentially agriculturists, the Coorgis, also known as the Kodavas, are a distinct community, with strict adherence to the code of merry-making, and occasions to celebrate are never wanting. Interestingly, they are said to be descendents of Alexander’s army, something that could well be true given that they always carry some form of weapon—thankfully, rarely ever used.