India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (228 page)

Note:
It is inadvisable to travel anywhere during rush hour—you will almost certainly find yourself in a traffic jam in one of the most polluted cities in the world.

GUIDED TOURS
You can book an air-conditioned bus tour of New Delhi (daily 9am–2pm) and/or Old Delhi (daily 2:15–5:15pm) through
Delhi Tourism
(see “Visitor Information,” above). Tours cost Rs 100 each, or Rs 195 for both; monument admission fees are extra. Also offered are long-distance tours that include trips to Agra, Jaipur, and Rishikesh, but we definitely recommend you opt for a private operator. Two of the most popular are
Go Delhi Luxury Tours
(
98-9988-8207;
www.godelhi.net
), and
TCI
(
011/2331-5834
or -5838;
www.tcindia.com
). Their tours are more personal, and the higher tariff (upward of Rs 1,000 per person, excluding monument entry) ensures that you get a decent English-speaking guide and an air-conditioned vehicle. Another reliable option which comes highly recommended is
Le Passage to India
(
011/4165-3100;
www.lepassagetoindia.com
)—it would be best to check with all three for the best rate available. But if you’re tired of predictable presentations of history, we urge you to book a tour with the unusual
Blowhorn Travel
(
0124/410-1328;
www.blowhorntravel.com
) who provide a series of innovative itineraries, keeping the idiosyncrasies of Indian culture in mind, and often studying it through the eyes of interesting personalities such as Lucy Peck, architectural historian and Khushwant Singh, son of a builder; truly a breath of fresh air to tourism gone stale, and catering to one to eight persons max. If Old Delhi (and really, this should be your first port of call) is your focus, we also recommend
Tallis & Company
0124/400-4458;
www.tallisandco.com
) whose services and guides are extremely professional and thorough.

For an excellent introduction to Hinduism, as well as visits to some of the lesser-known sights in Old and New Delhi, book into
Master Paying Residential Guest Accommodation
(see “Where to Stay,” later in this section)—the erudite proprietor gives one of the best tours we’ve had in India, and runs the best-value guesthouse in Delhi, too.

If you’d care to learn more about life on the streets of Delhi, and fancy a walking tour, contact
Salaam Baalak Trust City Walk
(
011/2358-4164;
www.salaambaalaktrust.com
), although you’d better be prepared to have your heart broken. The daily walks through the city’s hodgepodge of streets and back alleys are led by street children who will share views on life that will possibly change your reality forever, but the initiative is well worth supporting as it makes a real difference to these children’s lives to be gainfully employed in this manner (see “The Plight of the Delhi’s Beggars” box). Alternatively
INTACH
(The Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage; 71 Lodhi Estate;
011/2464-1304;
www.intach.org
) conducts 2-hour morning walks through Chandni Chowk on Saturdays.

Another company worth highlighting is
Exotic Journeys
—all you need to do is supply proprietor Raj Singh with your budget (as low as $100 per day, including car, driver, and accommodations—or higher, of course), number of days, and area of interest, and he will customize an excellent trip, kicking off with 2 days of sightseeing in Delhi. Contact him at [email protected] or [email protected], or call
011/2612-4069.

Delhi