India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (227 page)

By Train
Of the five stations, most trains arrive at either
New Delhi Station,
a 10-minute walk from Connaught Place, or at
Old Delhi Station
in Shahjahanabad. (Note that if you’re traveling on to Agra, you may need to catch the passenger train that leaves from
Nizamuddin
Station,
south of Connaught Place.) For rail inquiries and reservations, call
131
from 8am to 8pm. All stations are well-serviced by taxis and auto-rickshaws. Again, head for the prepaid auto-rickshaw and taxi counters or negotiate the fare upfront—expect to pay Rs 50 to Connaught Place, slightly more to Shahjahanabad/Old Delhi—or insist on using the meter, although there is no guarantee they haven’t been rigged (see rates under “Getting Around,” below). Note that if you plan to travel elsewhere in India by train, you don’t necessarily need to prebook all your train trips in Delhi (see chapter 3 for details on train travel) but you may prefer to get organized here. It’s still easiest to do this with a recommended travel agent—while it’s become easier to book independently thanks to the Internet, there are complication such as foreigner quotas and not being able to choose your berth, as well as sometime difficulties with credit card payments; unless you’re familiar with the system you can save yourself these headaches by using the services of a professional for very little additional money!
Sadhana Travel
(
011/2646-5312,
011/4161-8278, or 98-1005-2471;
www.sadhanatravels.com
) offer professional assistance with air travel and tour itineraries; or work with a travel agent attached to your hotel. However, keep in mind that on some trains a small quota of seats is set aside for foreign travelers. A travel agent cannot book these seats; you will need to go to the station to a special counter to book them (again, see chapter 3).

GETTING AROUND
The
Delhi Metro
(
www.delhimetrorail.com
) is increasingly useful, particularly for covering longer distance (like getting to Oberoi Maidens in the north), but as is the case elsewhere, subways also provide no sense of the city layout or passing sights. During peak hours, the tube can also get overcrowded and claustrophobic, and women traveling alone may get unwelcome attention. Ticketing agents are still not very clued in or helpful, either. However, it’s a very cheap and effective way of getting around, particularly if your lodgings are near a station, in which case you should definitely purchase a 1-day card (Rs70), or a 3-day (Rs200) if you’re staying longer.

There are three lines along which the Delhi Metro operates. To make it easier for you to understand which to opt for, we have clubbed places of interest, restaurants and hotels next to each metro option (
Note:
This refers only to those that lie along the metro routes).

Line 1: Dilshad Garden—Rithala (Rajghat, Akshardham)

Line 2: Jehangirpuri—Central Secretariat (Oberoi Maidens, Master Paying Residential Guest Accommodation, Chor Bizarre, Karim, and Old Delhi sites such as Red Fort, India Gate)

Line 3: Indraprastha—Barakhamba Road—Dwarka (Shangri-La, The Imperial, The Park, Shanti Home, Hans Plaza, Hotel Palace Heights, Veda, Jantar Mantar, National Museum, Pragati Maidan)

The best way to get around while orienting yourself is still in Delhi’s
black-and-yellow taxis
or, for short distances,
auto-rickshaws
(run on eco-friendly CNG—compressed natural gas), but be sure to agree on the price upfront. For instance, traveling from Connaught Place to Red Fort shouldn’t cost more than Rs 50 by auto-rickshaw, Rs 150 by taxi. Delhi has the most complacent auto-rickshaw drivers in the country; if they don’t feel like going where you’re asking, they’ll simply refuse you service. Often, this is a ploy to press you for more money (official rates are Rs 10 for the first kilometer, and Rs 4.50 for every kilometer thereafter). If you feel you’re being overcharged, accuse the driver of cheating and threaten to report him (often simply pretending to dial the police on your mobile phone does the trick); to really complain, dial
011/2301-0101
or 011/4340-0400 (24 hr.). If the idea of having to haggle like this turns your stomach,
Mega Cab
(
011/4141-4141;
www.megacabs.com
) is a radio taxi outfit that offers a convenient, marginally more expensive alternative, with a fleet of air-conditioned cars outfitted with working meters (Rs 15 per kilometer) available around-the-clock; their drivers usually keep you abreast of their arrival via cellphone. In case you cant get through, similar outfits like
Delhi Cab
(
011/44-333-222
) and the reliable
Meru Cabs
(
011/4422-4422;
www.merucabs.com
) are also recommended, as are Easycabs (see Arrival above).

If you’d prefer to hire a car and driver for a half- or full day, arrange this through your hotel or, for better rates (and reliable drivers), through
Sunrise Car Rental
(
011/2687-7434
) or
Aelpe Services
(
93-1374-1072
).

If you plan to tour North India by car, setting off from Delhi, contact the excellent Khaver who will put you in touch with one of his travel experts at
Tushita Travels,
and you can create a custom tour within any budget (
011-2573-0256
or 2573-3652; [email protected];
www.tushita-india.com
). Also look into what
Greaves Travels India
(
011/2437-3523
or -3528;
www.greavesindia.com
) can offer, another reputable operator with good drivers.