India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (318 page)

5, Hotel Complex, Sam Rd., Jaisalmer.
02992/25-0907,
-0908, 3943, 3944, or -1485. Fax 02992/25-1305.
www.hotelrangmahal.com
. [email protected]. 150 units. Rs 3,500 standard double; Rs 5,000 deluxe room; Rs 8,100 royal room and tower suite; Rs 14,000 royal suite; Rs 1,000 extra bed. Meals extra: breakfast Rs 300, lunch Rs 550, dinner Rs 650. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
2 restaurants; bar; sunset bar; billiards room; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; health club; Ayurvedic massage; pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, minibar.

The Serai
In the heart of the Thar Desert (40km/25 miles outside Jaisalmer) on a secluded 40-hectare (100-acre) estate lies the latest Sujan resort: a luxury camping safari-style experience. The resort is built using Jaisalmer stone, and incorporates local colors such as indigo and madder, local dhurries and urns and is set against white canvas and the stark desert, which makes for a seductive contrast. However it is the elevated infinity pool built along the lines of a traditional step well or
baoli
that really blows you away, and offers the perfect vantage point for you to survey the beautiful, stark desert surrounds. The main tent has a well-proportioned reception area and the dining tent includes a lounge bar and library—very comfortable with leather chairs and dhurries. The tents are all very spacious and beautifully appointed; a pity they’re a little too close together. An organic garden provides fresh produce for the kitchen and the food ranges from traditional Rajasthani dishes to European cold soups. If you find the energy to step out of the pool or pry yourself away from your luxury tent some of the activities include village trips, sundowner trips to the dunes and, of course, Jaisalmer fort.

Bherwa, Chandan, District Jaisalmer, Rajasthan. Info
011/2374-3194.
Reservations and corporate office: 58-59 Regal Bldg., Parliament St., New Delhi 110 001.
011/4606-7608,
fax 011/4165-5052.
www.sujanluxury.com
. 21 units. Rs 25,000 tented suite; Rs 35,000 luxury tented suite; Rs 50,000 royal tented suite. Rates include breakfast and taxes. Transfers and excursions are not included and must be booked in advance. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; babysitting; doctor-on-call; library; pool; room service; safaris—desert, sightseeing, camel rides, jeep rides, sundowners on sand dunes, village excursions. In room: A/C, TV, minibar.

WHERE TO DINE

Eateries within the fort are entirely not worth the effort or the environmental damage (see box), so you’d do better to head into town.

Desert Boy’s Dhani
ECLECTIC/VEGETARIAN Just below the fort, this atmospheric restaurant has a lovely outdoor section; you can sit in the garden courtyard or get closer to the ground on thin mattresses at one of the low tables, where lazy reclining is definitely encouraged. The nostalgic strains of old Hindi film music sets the mood, and at night the garden is lit up with candles, creating a romantic atmosphere; from November through January, traditional dance performances are held from 9 to 11pm. The specialty here is tasty vegetarian dishes (including thin-crust pizzas smothered with cheese from the Punjab), and you really should consider Desert Boy’s specialty,
kair sanagari,
a delicious yogurt-based concoction made with capers and a local desert-dwelling string bean that’s purported to have antibiotic properties. If that doesn’t appeal, another Jaisalmer specialty is
govind gatta,
chickpea-flavored balls stuffed with dried fruit and served with yogurt spiced with turmeric, coriander, and chili. Finish off with a
kaju dakh
milkshake, made with cashews and raisins.

Near Nagar Palika.
02992/25-4336.
Main courses Rs 100–Rs 200. No credit cards. Daily 9am–11pm.

The Trio
RAJASTHANI/ECLECTIC This unassuming eatery, with its open walls and thin cotton flaps providing a welcome breeze (not to mention views of the town and the Maharaja’s palace), is Jaisalmer’s top restaurant and one of the best in Rajasthan. It’s not just that the food is delicious, but the chef brings a few interesting variations to signature Rajasthani dishes—a relief to one who has exhausted the almost standardized North Indian menu. The
murgh-e-subz
—succulent, boneless strips of chicken stir-fried with shredded vegetables—is one not to miss. If you want to reward your taste buds, order the very tasty mutton
nabori,
a somewhat creamy Thar Desert specialty; be warned, however, there’s enough garlic in it to scare camels away. If you have a hearty appetite, the tandoor thali is tops: two chicken dishes, vegetable kebab, mint sauce, and
naan.
Sensitive stomachs can opt for the
kadhi pakora,
fried graham-flour dumplings dunked in yogurt sauce, or
bharwan aloo
(potatoes stuffed with mint paste and simmered in gravy). Wash all of it down with the coldest beers and Cokes in the state.

Gandhi Chowk, Mandir Palace (near the Amar Sagar Gate).
02992/25-2733.
Main courses Rs 80–Rs 250. MC, V. Daily 11am–10:30pm.

Saffron
RAJASTHANI One of the best night dining views of the fort, with its uplit buttresses, Nachana Haveli’s rooftop terrace serves authentic Rajasthani cuisine in pleasant surrounds (accompanied by local musicians) under the stars or under a shaded canopy (lunch). They also have a small, elevated private terrace at the back that you can request for a special romantic rendezvous. Start with the barbeque/tandoori kebabs (a trio of chicken, lamb, and fish) and move on to their signature organic free range
lal maas
and smooth, creamy (but with a bite)
dal makhani.
For something lighter go for the delicious local lake fish that can be either grilled or served in a mild, piquant curry and the vegetarian
seekh
or
harabahra
kebabs. Shakti will gladly share his impressive and deep knowledge of the local history, flora, and fauna, while Vikram, the elder brother, is a whiskey connoisseur and will gladly take you on a tasting tour of the local blended malts—be sure to eat first, and have a room downstairs before commencing this journey!